Fuel leak when around/above half full
Moderator: martauto
My 1989 318i has just been put back on the road after a couple of months as the head gasket went on my mate,ive bought it and fixed it but the other day i brimmed the tank and ive noticed a strong smell of fuel, i looked under the car and fuel appears to be leaking from around where the rubber hose goes into the tank. I spoke to the previous owner who said it did it above half so he always kept it below. I'm after fixing it so if anyone else has had this or known this problem,any advice would be great, if it is the tank and not the rubber hose is the tank a pain to change and do any other hoses/clips etc need changing at the same time?? Cheers - Nick 
-
Richy325iTouring
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3490
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Newport SouthWales
- Contact:
Most likly the tank
comon fault on the E30
comon fault on the E30

-
Guest
similar problem on mine, i replaced the tank and got a new hose,
all hoses should be replaced while the tank is off.
to take the tank out you need to drop the prop and the exhaust - tanks held on by 5 bolts if i remember correctly - some are quite hard to get to as well!
all hoses should be replaced while the tank is off.
to take the tank out you need to drop the prop and the exhaust - tanks held on by 5 bolts if i remember correctly - some are quite hard to get to as well!
just done mine it had a small hole around the filler neck it would only holed Ԛ£10
scot 328i with 260bhp
-
BadDave
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 6012
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Nr Aberdeen.Scotland(Gods country)
Definately a common problem.I've replaced 3 fuel tanks now(different cars)All had corroded at the filler neck.Richy325iTouring wrote:Most likly the tank
comon fault on the E30
Have tried all manner of cheap fixes over the years(including trying to weld the bloddy thing) and nothing seems to work for an extended period.
The only effective option is to replace the tank
It's pretty easy to replace the tank.
Details below.
First thing would be to get the car up on either A) ramps B)axle stands C) over an inspection pit
Drain fuel-the tank should have a drain plug on the drivers side(you need an allen key-5 or 6 mm if I remember correctly. If the allen key is going to get ruined-use a pr of vise/mole-grips-self locking pliers to turn it.
Remove the exhaust(when its cool-obviously)
Remove the heat shield that sits above the exhaust
Undo the four nuts that hold the prop shaft to the diff and then the 3 bolts that hold the front of the prop to the gearbox and finally the 2 bolts that hold the centre bearing housing. Pull down the centre bearing carrier and remove the rear of the prop from the diff and do the same with the front of the prop
Place the prop out of your way
If you have 2 metal strips just in front of the tank (air deflector plates)-remove these also (held in place with plastic nuts and a screw) if the screw wont budge, just pull the strip down slightly
Lift/remove the rear seat and lift the carpet to reveal either 1 or 2 access panels-unscrew these. Beneath these you will find fuel pipes and electrical connections-undo the wiring plugs (poss. 1 in each hole (if a 2 hole tank) these are for the fuel pump and the fuel senders (there are 1 either side on the 2 hole version) a small flat head screwdriver should split the clips that hold the fuel lines (best to replace with new jubilee clips-much easier to do up) separate the fuel lines (mark them if it makes you feel better)
You now have to undo the hoses beside the fuel filter(again-mark them if you feel it would be easier for you to identify which pipe goes where for when you come to put it back together).you have to remove the fuel filter from itÔš's jubilee clip to gain access to the bolt that holds the filter hanger bracket. Undo the bolt. Undo the bolt /nut at the other side of the tank also. ThatÔš's 2 down 3 to go. I found it best to remove the 2 at the back of the tank (above the rear beam) first and support the tank and THEN remove the final nut (in the centre at the front). The tank should now be in a position to be removed (you need to fiddle it about a bit to get it out)
Once removed, give the top a clean/sweep down to remove crud etc. Remove the metal sleeved rubber grommets and fit them to your new/replacement tank. Remove the pass side fuel sender (screws out-might need a little leverage-use a screwdriver/small flat bar etc) and fit into new tank (if you have new seals-USE THEM).
To remove the fuel pump. first remove the 4 small nuts on the top and lift out the 2nd sender unit. then unscrew the fuel pump just as you did with the 1st fuel sender and fit into your new tank(again if you have new seals-FIT THEM) once the pumps in, refit the sender unit(Hynes-fitting is reverse of removal).
Transfer the plastic fuel lines to the new tank.(do not damage the copper pipe)if the clips on the original tank are dodgy/in need of replacement ,you can use plastic tie raps to hold the plastic lines Just donÔš't tighten them to too tight.
You should now be ready to refit the tank
Get the tank back up into position and support it
Connect up the fuel lines on top of the tank to those still on the car (jubilee clips are much easier/faster than the originals) and refit the wiring plugs to the fuel pump and sender units
Everything else should be pretty straight forward when it comes to refitting.
Hope you find this helpful
If you have any questions or problems donÔš't hesitate to email (I check them every night) and IÔš'll do my best to answer any questions or offer solutions to any problems you encounter
Or you can use MSN Messenger (contact details - divemasterdave@hotmail.com and we can overcome any problems in Ԛ“real timeԚâ€a if you prefer
Hope that helps
Dave
I had the same problem in my Astra. It turned out to be where the two halves of the tank were seamed together. Part of the seam had gone and the petrol dripped out when over half full.
Got a new tank for Ԛ£20 from a mate and fitted it in an hour.
Got a new tank for Ԛ£20 from a mate and fitted it in an hour.
-
BadDave
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 6012
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Nr Aberdeen.Scotland(Gods country)
Possibly.E30_Don wrote:Cheers for the tips! That'l be this weeks job! is Euro probably the best place to get a tank from?
I got mine from a local Breakers Yard
Cost me about Ԛ£82 inc vat
Its leaking from the tank, bought a new one, need to rust proof best i can (schultz me thinks!) and fit it, the filler neck looks ok but just incase does anyone know of suppliers as euro discontiued it and bm want 67+the dreaded! 
-
E30Adam
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 8483
- Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 11:00 pm
- Location: Bournemouth
- Contact:
I've added it as a tech article to the main site courtesy of BadDave.
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... eltank.htm
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... eltank.htm

2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
-
BadDave
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 6012
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Nr Aberdeen.Scotland(Gods country)
Thanks AdamE30Adam wrote:I've added it as a tech article to the main site courtesy of BadDave.
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... eltank.htm
It'll save me having to cut and paste everytime the question comes up
Have you replaced your's yet??????????
-
E30Adam
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 8483
- Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 11:00 pm
- Location: Bournemouth
- Contact:
Not yet mate, still collecting parts... which reminds me, I must collect the new tank this morning!BadDave wrote:Thanks AdamE30Adam wrote:I've added it as a tech article to the main site courtesy of BadDave.
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... eltank.htm
It'll save me having to cut and paste everytime the question comes up
Have you replaced your's yet??????????

2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch



