E30 Zone

There I was, bowling along, keeping within the 80KPH limit, unlike everyone else when a brand new Hyundai Kona pulls out in front of me, SMIDSY, when I say "in front" I mean 5 meters and at 75Kph I hit the anchors, big cloud of smoke and bang! hit her up the rear. she said, "i DIDN'T SEE YOU, GAWD! BIG WHITE CAR, headlights ON,

The Guadia Civil, (Traffic cops) were not too pleased with her and tore her a new one but short story, poor ol' Blance, my beloved 1987 E30 320i auto saloon went off to the garage on a truck. and curtsy of insurers we went home in a taxi

Week later and we were offered 1038€ compensation (for car I couldn't replace for under 4,000€, I have searched all of Spain), and only because somehow it was re-registered as a 1995 not a 1987- due to a change of number plates from regional to national. otherwise it would have been a lot less.

A lot of heated conversations later and the deal was; I keep the car, 1038€ in the bank, NO RECORD of a write off and carry on as usual. free transport from repair shop to my location. no increase in insurance in September. But oh boy, did I buy some work?

Insurance company paid for grua, (truck) to take Blanca 50Km to my garage where I had already been busy and cleared it and moved my kit car into temporary parking space opposite.

On stripping her down I found things were pretty bad, all this about steel verses plastic, rubbish, Hyundai plastic crap hardly a dent, Blance, wrecked.

Bumper, headlights, grill, valance, radiator support, (front frame), bonnet, right wing, Bumper center trim, bumper joint trims, right bumper and both indicators. OEM price for that little lot over 2 grand.

So off to our only local breakers and they had ONE BMW from the era, a 1989 318 2 door, bonnet, complete headlight assembly and a wing, 120€. Still trying work out how I get the bonnet to my workshop, it is a big bugger foe sure.

The rest of the stuff, mostly on eBay, 700€ including a complete bumper mounting kit from Schmiedmann in Denmark and I even had enough for a new-ish LHD dashboard to replace the cracked one for 180€ and a boot tidy for 40€

So apart from the new OEM bonnet insulation that arrived in 4 days from Germany, I await stuff from UK, Latvia, Lusitania, Denmark, Poland, Germany and Spain over the next 3 weeks.

I had a problem with the front valance as the right top bracket was bent and twisted right where there was a big dent but I have managed to get it straight as well as the wing mount for the headlight, just a small slit side of the bumper aperture to weld a¡after being bashed back into shape, still some 'fine tuning' to do that was shown up by a quick coat of white but nothing more than a wrinkle or three.

M3 front spoiler was a surprise, well twisted behind the bumper it came back into shape all on it's own, with the aid of a heat gun, so that just needs a tidy up and ready to refit to the new bumper.

Lucky for me there is disinformation on the right chassis leg, just a slight curve to the front of the inner wing, soon sorted once the damaged slam panel is cut away. Both bumper mounts are toast and the mounting threads bent in slightly but easy to put right with a 8mm threaded rod and a slide hammer.

The main problem is the radiator holder/front frame where the main beam headlight had buried itself. seriously bent and damaged beyond reasonable repair, I bought a complete 320i front end for 80€ from Latvia, now do I spend ages removing the old frame complete or just cut out the damaged part, from the bumper mount upwards and the right side of the slam panel above the headlight and replace it with the good section from Latvia ?. I know which way I am leaning.

The second hand wing and bonnet are dark blue as well as being key scratched and a few small dents so I need to spend time prepping those before ripping them down and priming and painting white (046 Alpinweis 1) .

I am glad the 1987 320 has just a plain paint job, no clear coat, so a lot less work, not sure if it's acrylic or not but I will buy the correct one for the year.

Other than that I would like to find some plain athrazit grey cloth to repair the bolster on the drivers seat or a secondhand back cover from a passengers seat. 0211 anthrazit.

You will probably notice, we don't do rust in South of Spain, 33 years old and not a spot anywhere.


Before the accident, Just bought a new radiator and breather tube.



After the accident, doesn't look too bad does it. wrong.


A very embarrassing condition for a lady


The worst part , of the chassis at least


Saved, M3 spoiler, 30 years old., just a heat gun and all is well again
]
Seriously twisted bracket


Untwisted bracket


Outer headlight bracket back in shape, 1st fix.


Bumper mounts just need a tweak with a slide hammer.



50€ plyus shipping, not bad, I think I will just cut the bit out and weld it in.


Meanwhile my Eagle SS has to sit outside its home.

Parts coming in, surprising difference in transit times, parts from Germany certainly fastest, GB slowest.
Bumper center section 8days from London.
Under bonnet (hood) insulation, 2 days from Germany.
Under tray, new. 5 days from Germany.
so far, so good.

Al used parts, wing, bonnet, headlight and grill in workshop now thanks to stepsons VW SUV
Likewise all old parts in SUV and down to skip.

Your front plastic “m3 spoiler” is actually a mtech 1 front valance.

Glad your fixing her, good luck.

That doesn't look so bad, but I know from experience that any damage can be a worry. A few hours and $$$ and it'll be back to it's former glory.

Fair play for keeping the car and getting it back up together again. Looks like a bit of work straightening it out again.
Insurance companies are a con IMHO. Not at all surprised they undervalued your car, regardless of what year it was registered.

Good luck with it all, hope all goes to plan

Good luck with the repairs. The Eagle SS caught my eye. If I am correct the design is based on a design called the Nova - Uk origin. A company with many troubles and buyouts etc but for the last two years of production 1978 - 1980 was made in my home town of Mirfield here in Yorkshire. Great looking futuristic car!

Sanchez wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:31 pm

Your front plastic “m3 spoiler” is actually a mtech 1 front valance.

Glad your fixing her, good luck.

So that's why she has a 'M' badge not a M3 one. She has the whole kit since new according to the one previous owner.

I don't know if there's an equivalent in Spain, but in the UK it's essential to get agreed value insurance on this type of car, otherwise it'll just be treated as another old banger by insurance valuers.

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 05, 2020 2:31 pm

I don't know if there's an equivalent in Spain, but in the UK it's essential to get agreed value insurance on this type of car, otherwise it'll just be treated as another old banger by insurance valuers.

Unfortunately not, that has been the argument with Linea Directa (Direct Line in UK) I tried to get 'classic' car insurance and the best quote I got was over double my current one, over 300€ TPFT+-

I sent them photos of the car pre-prange and various 'for sale' adverts in Spain, none of which were under 3,500€ but they still insisted it was 'just an old car', Even if I had a H plate, which would cost at least 800€, It wouldn't have made any difference.

I am afraid the Spanish know the price of everything and the value of nothing., Anything 'historical' is bulldozed or crush in the name of progress, tourism or development, AKA corruption.

The procedure for getting a H plate is enough to put most people off, even lawyers.

1/ Certification from laboratory of engineering in Malaga certifying it is genuine and original, (what they know anyway), 200€
2/ Special ITV (MoT) 150€
3/ Report by 'engineer', who probably doesn't know an E30 from an E36 that it is original and safe. which duplicates the first two anyway. 160€
4/ Pay all road tax up to date, (Road tax is local not national and varies from municipality to municipality. currently about 85€ a year for a car.
5/ Pay a VAT of 20% on valuation, again varies and it's THEIR value.
6/ Pay for set of new plates. 30€

In UK I believe if it is over 30 years old, send to Swansea via post office and get it changed free to 'tax exempt'

Just;
the log book (V5C) in your name
your vehicle tax reminder letter (V11), if you have one
an MOT certificate that’s valid when the tax starts, or evidence if your vehicle’s exempt from an MOT (V112)

That seems very very harsh mate, why it is so I can`t try to understand.
By the way, in the UK only if your car is registered before 1979 can you have free road duty.

Cheers Mart.

Yes IN UK it is 40 years but here it is still 30, but the process it so off putting few people other than the rich or with really historic cars bother to do it as the benefits, other than kudos, are so small. no or reduced tax, for heavens sake it is only about 85€ a year here.

I prefer the UK system, of popping down the post office, as to all the crap here which is just a money making scam. They wouldn't even accept the Russian BMW club's certificate.



Anyway.
I have drilled out the spot welds on the right wing/slam panel and cut way the right upright level with the bottom of the chassis leg, there is still a little deformation at the front of the upright but tweakable to being a square again so I am thinking to just replace that section rather than the whole slam panel and leg, maybe, seems a lot going on around the bumper support to drill out and chop off. and I have to do it all TWICE The small flap from slam panel to inner wing had also split off, held on by a small section at the front so I am cutting the top 20mm of the inner wing away too.

I got the boot tidy yesterday for the right side, I don't know if they make one for the left side as the jack is such a close fit. Cleaned off the underside of the bonnet (hood) and found a dent on the front so not much better than the one I just binned, tried my (hot glue) dent puller and got half of it out but still a shallow one left that will have to be filled. along with a half dozen small dents too.

The front valance is possibly the worst part and getting it straight was a pig and it has to be right as it shows under the headlights and of course that's just where it is bent. Managed to get it near enough by removing the bracket, which came off surprisingly easy, and square up the channel along the top and get the step right, Putting the bracket back on was difficult because as as soon as I got anywhere near it with my smallest arch welder on lowest setting it just blew a hole in the metal. maybe if I use my bigger, adjustable, 140A unit and crank it right down with a 1.5mm rod I might manage, better find a way as I have some tricky butt welds to do.

The 318 wing had some rust along the bottom, which is strange down here but a heavy sanding and some anti rust primer sorted that out, a key scratch right along made rubbing right down a necessary and will mean a couple of coats of primer rubbed down to loose that.

Some bright spark on another BMW forum, who shall remain nameless, said it was probably only in the lacquer, idiot, those years didn't have lacquer, just top coat. 046 alpineweiss 1 . It's just as well it is just top coat as the sun here rips lacquer right off. bugger up top coat too but not as much. My wife's Caribic blue Corsa B looks like it has leprosy.


Next job; welding 'new' section in, cutting back weld to a smooth 'invisible' finish and primer. then onto cleaning all the crap off of the wing and bonnet, both sides and sanding down with 100 grade all over ready for filling, sanding and primer.

Found that trying to weld thin sheet, AKA body panels, with a stick welder is useless under 2mm thick, even on lowest setting it just blows holes in it. So I will have to hire or buy (80€) a MIG welder that is good for 0-2mm sheet as I need to weld the upright, inner wing and slam panel really well so I can sand them down flush to an invisible finish for primer and paint, also grind down and re-do the mess I already made.
I remember back in 1998 I built a Baja bug for my daughter when she got into Cardiff uni' and I did quite well with MIG /Co2 (from local pub) until the grumpy neighbor complained, (even grumpier than me if you can believe it) and I had to have it finished and painted by 'Bugs and Buses' in Gloucester, did a great job in Ford Sierra red too.

As far as the job goes I decided to cut and shut the right corner from the bonnet hinge to below the chassis leg ans a bit of the inner wing, (mistake) and smae from donor part plus a few mm to trim to size, managed quite well considering it's my first attempt other than the VW floor pan in 1995.

All parts apart from front grill are here now, managed to waste 25€ ordering bumper bolt covers as they come in the complete bumper fitting kit as well but Ebay will have a couple of more items soon.


Panel bashing; I managed to get 90% of the dents out and rust ground out so ready for a little filler and sanding on bonnet (it is bloody HUGE!) and right wing.

Wish I had persevered with the original bonnet now, it would actually have been better working out the bend/dent on the front as I wouldn't have had to do underneath white.

Currently held up by usual lack of cash in PayPal account but next Tuesday will see things kicking off again.

Having tried to weld sections in with my small stick welder I gave up, it defiantly needs a MIG welder. panel with holes in proves it, managed to get section tacked in but no good at seams.

Bowing to logic for a change that buying at that price is better than renting for a couple of days the Viking agreed I can buy one.

After chewing over factors such as use after car repair and availability of gas refills I have decided a small 130A gas less unit will do just fine at about $100 with free 3 day shipping.

I went for gas-less rather than with/without or gas only is I can always get fluxed wire for gas-less but getting a gas refill, either CO2 or Argon is difficult here (licenses, permits etc.) and not always available when you need it, like at the weekend.

this one is advertised by quite a few sellers and varies between $89 and $160. so cheapest rules OK.


Hopefully that will be good for a lot of small jobs about the place.

all parts apart from the last part to be fitted, kidney grill, have arrived but I still need to order the front bumper joints, finding a pair that are neither stupid expensive, half way around the world or silly money for postage is difficult.

Dur to Spain's clamp down I have stopped work for two weeks and just sorting out my stuff.


Regards repair work and learning a bit more about welding, I usually use a 100/140A stick welder, I am buying a MAG(MIG) welder.

One who knows better than me said not to buy a gas-less only one, BUT, only thing is, I bet he don't have to pay $120 a time for a bottle of gas as I would in Spain, plus regulator 15€, that doesn't come with welder. So I guess I will have to learn to use one without gas and cored wired rather than MAG welding but with gas option.

When I built my daughter Ruth's Baja bug I was able to get some C02 from the local pub for a few quid but when the gas costs more than the welder,

Found one with/without gas for a little more but plus gas and regulator for disposable bottles. Seems everything under 250€ is without gas nowadays.

If I get the with/without I can use it either way, so way to go. RED WINS!
https://www.ebay.es/itm/Soldador-de-...gAAOSw8o9dwXoG

BUT, 8 ltrs of Argon is 109€ C02 199€, 1 Ltr bottle CO2/Argon, 27€

I did look into hiring but none available locally and when I phoned further afield they wanted nearly as much a day as a new cheap one, plus gas refill..

Gone and done it, went for the bigger duel model and a roil of flux wire. about 115 quid all in.

Done it again! Been screwed by a seller.

The so called gas/no gas welder is gas only it is not polarity switchable nor does it come with toothed rollers needed for gas-less wire., with gas only so I wrote to Greencut and they said, "it is for gas only". so I said, "why advertise every where as gas/no gas?", guess what? No reply.

Now I have a 'with gas' welder due to arrive any time and a reel of fluxed 'gas less' wire here already

I looked into it and it seems there is no big deal, just change polarity on the output cables and change the wheel to 0.8mm ribbed so the fluxed wire isn't crushed.. Addendum; also need to change tip to .8mm and shield to gas.

A pair of 8mm binding posts and a pair of 8mm eyelet connectors and I will be able to swap over as I please, should I be able to afford gas that is.

Learning a lot about the subject as I go which is cool too. Even at 74 I can always learn new stuff.

Everything now here to repair car, apart from paint but I can't get to it,

Finally the Andalusian government has relaxed the rules a bit so some people can start work again,but only if in a certain occupation, of course a lot are abusing the relaxation. I had to attend to the stables quad Thursday and it keeps throwing the chain because the swing arm is bent and broken (backing up the little trailer sideways against the caliper, idiots), but I buggered up my right knee and can't get back to it yet. I was really in a lot of pain doing a hard job after lockdown, body just not used to it.

Frustration is killing me, My car ready for welding and reassemble and the SS burning parking fees just sitting there.

I have the time, as have many of us, and the parts and the equipment but can't get to it. It's going to be AT LEAST until the 25th May and then staged relaxation.

Sucks balls man but at least it isn't too hideous and can be repaired

Sneaked into workshop, a 40 minuet drive away risking a fine but got away with it twice so far and managed to get the new(er) front frame section MIG welded in and a quick coat of white to see if anything needed fixing and no, it was good so next is to clean up welds and proper paint job.

Then it's on to the front end rebuild with new parts and then prep and paint wing and bonnet before final assembly of new bumper, fittings and grill.

Can't wait to get her back on the road, the wife's Corsa sport is a great little car and goes like stink but it's not me.

Great work so far mate, I definitely know what you mean abou draconian laws re insurance and registration. I can't be bothered to insure any of my stuff (expect house/contents) as for the old cars I mess around with it's just not worth the hassle.

Keep up the progress, don't let the ruts in the road get you down!

If anyone needs a section of the radiator support, apart from the top right corner and upright, let me know, have the rest of mine going spare for a small fee and postage., willing to cut out what you need.

Hit a couple of problems on the rebuild, the headlight assembly I bought is a later type and although it fits the connections are different and has a plastic frame also the outer unit has a huge reflector unit,. Now, do I hunt about for a RH early assembly or go buy the other side from the later 318 I got the wing and hood from?

Managed to get the front bumper and Tech1 front assembly all ready to fit, better than before as I bolted it together at the sides rather than use the flat clips. or I would have had to Dremel the clips to compensate for the thickness of the spoiler.

Left fog light is a disaster, reflector totally rusted away and glass stained. I managed to get the glass good again but the reflector is toast and a replacement is like $70, so as it is just a fog and we don't do fog in Andalusia, just a bit of sea mist, I was thinking I could coat the bowl with kitchen foil, shiny side up, and glue it in. yeah?.

Ukhozi wrote: ↑

Thu May 21, 2020 3:14 pm

Hit a couple of problems on the rebuild, the headlight assembly I bought is a later type and although it fits the connections are different and has a plastic frame also the outer unit has a huge reflector unit,. Now, do I hunt about for a RH early assembly or go buy the other side from the later 318 I got the wing and hood from?

Depends what you want, the elipsoid 'bullet' or 'smiley' lights are better than the old reflector ones (I did the upgrade on my chromie back in the day) but they are not original to a chromie (I will be putting my originals back) and need a bit of wiring.

Ukhozi wrote: ↑

Thu May 21, 2020 3:14 pm

Left fog light is a disaster, reflector totally rusted away and glass stained. I managed to get the glass good again but the reflector is toast and a replacement is like $70, so as it is just a fog and we don't do fog in Andalusia, just a bit of sea mist, I was thinking I could coat the bowl with kitchen foil, shiny side up, and glue it in. yeah?.

The fog light inserts for the early cars are standard Hella units and easier to get hold of new than the facelift ones. I would just bite the bullet and put a new one in.

The 'projector' type with the plastic frame seem better than the early (crap) ones which hardly light up the road in front never mind down the road and the original (crap) ones seem to come pre-rotted frames used and new, ouch. I don't like the look of the smiley ones and are obviously not correct whereas the projector ones at least look similar unless one looks closer and the plastic frame is better, also if I go to UK on a trip I can switch to RHD in a minuet.

Fog inserts 1ND 005 700-641 are about 90€ each plus shipping so for now it's foil skin on the bowl, long as it lights up that's all the inspector looks for on fogs and the warning lights. as I am on a strict budget of $1200 all in which what the insurance bastards paid out as a write off value.

Thanks for the input.

Found a complete 'early' Right hand headlight assemble on Ebay Spain for 50€ inc ship so I have a good later assembly for sale, which of course, is left/right handed.
Searches confirm Hella fog light inserts are bloody expensive considering they rust.

Ukhozi wrote: ↑

Fri May 22, 2020 2:34 pm

Searches confirm Hella fog light inserts are bloody expensive considering they rust.

I still have the originals on my '84 chromie, admittedly it has been off the road a while but they are still in tact.

I think things have gone up a bit recently as it was only last year I paid about £40ish each for a pair. Didn't think that was outrageous for genuine Hella kit these days.

One side is still £40 something but the other side is more

Bad time to buy stuff cheap at the moment

Saw in Hella spec that the reflectors in the fog lights are "vaporized aluminum" so not far off with shiny aluminum foil.
I just remembered I still have some chrome like central heating duct tape, hmmm, that is super sticky, might look at that instead. Like I said, it doesn't have to be perfect, just work.

As I am in the process of preparing the wing and bonnet I was wondering what paint to buy for spraying,

I was going to use spray cans but then I saw the price and at least 8 cans comes out expensive with shipping and possibly not the best finish so as I have all the spray gear I need a liter of ??? ,

I know it's a base coat without a clear coat and it's 146 Alpinweiss but is the original a water, acrylic or cellulose based?

I am thinking 1Ltr would be enough for a bonnet (hood) inc internal ribs and a wing?

Had a good day in the 'shed yesterday' but having problem with the valance, although it fits the wings and sits on the bumper mounts/chassis and the brackets line up OK the 'kidney grill' sits 2cm too high when clipped onto it.
I have got the wing on and a coat of primer and apart from a very small mark where there is a key scratch all the dents and dings are gone so just a smear of filler and touch up and ready for top coat, as soon as someone answers by question about paint used on 1987 cars.

I tried to get the long dent out of the right side of the nose of the replacement hood/bonnet but still 2mm left si I made a template of the left side and bugger me, perfect first cut so filled it in and ready to sand down, the whole thing will need sanding down as the top coat is rubbish.

I have flipped it over to clean, prime and insulate the underside first. To work on the underside after doing the topside would be stupid.

Ukhozi wrote: ↑

Tue May 26, 2020 11:45 am

as soon as someone answers by question about paint used on 1987 cars.

To be honest it is a bit academic what paint it actually has because you can get a reaction between what should be the same 'type' of paints 30 years later.

You need a paint that will not react with what is underneath it. If you are getting 1l mixed up then I would ask the paint factors doing the mixing as they will have the knowledge/information as to what their paint systems will go over.

A lot will come down to what you can get and what you can spray with your equipment (HP/LP?)

Obvious caviat not to spray 2K paint without proper equipment as it does not take much isocyanate to spoil your day.

Guess I will just have to give it a few light coats of universal primer and go with safer water based.

Did the chrome finish duct tape reflector on the left fog light, until I can afford the 55€ for a new one, it came out OK and with the glass back on looks good and even shines out OK. being the road center one is less important than the curb side I find, should I ever come across any fog that is.

Did a mock up fit of the valance and it touches all the right places but the grill is too tall, sits 1cm above the frame top., measured the frame height and it is spot on. Head scratching time, again.

Pictures would help us to see what you mean.

Ben

On it, next trip to the 'shed'.

Slight cock-up with the headlights.

I bought an assembly supposedly for my year along with the bonnet and wing, (more of those later), and when I unwrapped them they were plastic framed and a projector outer and of course different plugs.

So I ordered a used right hand assembly on-line and when they were unwrapped they had a metal frame OK BUT the outer lamp was from a left hand unit so didn't line up with the mountings. Luckily I had the undamaged light from the original unit and it fitted, just waiting on some new plastic fittings as the old one are fragile to say the least.

The scrapyard wing and bonnet have proven to be a pain in the butt. There was a large dent along the right of the leading edge and a couple of small dents, I would probably been better off repairing the original bonnet that was bent over above the headlights. as I wouldn't have the crap job of cleaning the underside of dirty, greasy stuff and preparing for paint.

The wing looked good until it was on the table to be prepped, then a huge key scratch showed up below the body line which has taken some work to loose as it was down to the metal,
A dent at the front was easy to sort out and after it was all done and covered in grey primer the fact the top of the arch was flat buy 1.5 cm showed up, so now I have to pull that out, at least it fitted perfectly, as does the headlight assembly now

In the next blog I will include a photo or three of the valance as on the first fit the new grill is too tall, sits on the valance OK but the peg is at least 1cm above the hole, it must be the valance but I can't see where I can lower the top of the valance as it sits on the chassis legs both side OK and measures what it's supposed to. I think I may have to increase the bends across, above the chassis legs, maybe too 'flat' in order to lower the top.

The new undertray I bought "for E30 pre-facelift" turned out to be for a facelift 318 and does not have the side extensions for the front of the wheel arches, just a long 'U' shape. the rear fittings line up but the horns bolt to the area where the front fittings are supposed to be and would require a slot cutting to allow the bracket to pass through and a screw hole drilling for a self tapping screw and some 3mm ABS plastic panels making to attach to the tray and out to the wing...

It was all supposed to be finished weeks ago but with lockdown and the 'shed' being a 45 minuet trip (and even Cummings would never have made it halfway), I have been slowed a lot as well but now lockdown has been lifted for the likes of me I am really busy catching up with clients jobs.
I really must start saying no to work and get on with the car.