E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_39. ETK_41_Body (rear door locks)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

Now the back door.

Rear door - hinge/door stop




There are two types of rear doors (#1) - before 1988 and after 1988. The main difference is in the loops (No. 2 and No. 3). Until 1985, the hinges were not removable, but welded to the body. Therefore, when they wear out, there are certain difficulties with their repair. After 1985, the hinges are detachable, and you can order a repair kit for them (41 51 1 922 737).
But without hinges, the doors themselves are interchangeable. Mine is an 84 body with welded hinges, but post 88 doors fit on them with no problem. Plates No. 5 and No. 7, 0.5 mm and 1 mm thick, are used to adjust the door in depth. The latter with a slot are more convenient - they can be placed without completely removing the door from the hinge. By the way, earlier I already mentioned the holes in the door jambs of the body - through them it is also convenient to adjust the doors in the closed position. And in general, hinges after 85 are much more convenient to adjust. But, we have what we have. The rear door is attached to the upper hinge with ordinary M8 nuts (No. 6), and to the lower hinge with self-locking M8 nuts (No. , 2 pieces each, for each door. This is probably due to the different construction of the upper and lower loops. Non-removable insert plates (No. 15) with M8 pins (No. 16) are provided for fastening in the door.

I'm not exactly sure about the difference between the rear doors in fixing the window regulators, but logically it should be similar to the front... Correct me, who knows for sure. But in ETK there are also two types of rear electric lifts. Depending on the type of elevators, the glass guides and the glass itself differ. But I will write about it in the relevant sections.
Detail #4 - door opening limiter. Mine were worn out so I replaced them all. The rear one is the same on the left and right side, but differs from the front door limiter. The rear limiter is stamped with the marking "H" (from the German "hintere"). It is important not to confuse them, otherwise they will cling to the edge of the opening in the body and gradually tear it apart. This is from my own experience - I used to have a rear one in front, as it turned out... It is attached to the door with two M6 bolts (#9). On the body, it is fixed in a special loop with pin #10 and staple #11. The connection is closed with a rubber seal No. 12.


After the final adjustment of the doors according to the gaps, I plan to paint the nuts, as it was from the factory.
After installation, it should be lubricated from the middle, for smoother operation. Bottom loop with grooves - with self-locking nuts.


Part No. 13 and No. 14 are plugs. They are duplicated in another section, so I will write about them there later.

Rear door locking system




The photo shows the details on the right front door. On the left - similarly.
Detail #10 - the internal door handles differ on the left and right sides. The front and back are the same on one side.
Detail No. 9 - decorative handle frame. It is placed on top of the door panel. Therefore, I will put them later. All four are the same.
Detail No. 7 - a rod connecting the handle to the door lock. Same on both sides.
Detail No. 8 - the tip of the thrust. Inserts into the draw holes in the handle and lock. I did not take them out so as not to break them, because they are quite fragile.


Part No. 12 and No. 11 - self-tapping screw and insert plate. Two for each handle.
Detail No. 13 - anti-squeak gasket under the handle body.
Detail No. 14 - traction clip. One on each side.

Details #1-6 - mechanism of the external handle. Will be installed a little later, after painting the handles.

Rear door locking system




Detail #1 - the door lock differs on the left and right sides. It is attached to the door with three special M6 bolts (#2).
Detail No. 7 - the tip of the thrust. It is inserted into the holes for traction in the lock. Three pieces for each lock.
Detail No. 13, No. 14 - rods connecting the door lock button with the lock. No. 13 differs on the left and right sides, No. 14 is the same.
Detail No. 11 - a decorative traction button.
Part No. 6 - the lever of the rods, they differ on the left and right sides.
Part No. 9 and No. 10 - a special bolt and lock nut for fastening lever No. 11.
Detail No. 8 - traction clip. One on each side.
Detail No. 3 - door lock latch. It differs before restyling and after restyling. But they are interchangeable. I replaced it with restyling ones. I think they hold the lock better. They are the same for all doors. If they are heavily worn, the left and right can be rearranged. It is attached to the body with two special bolts M8 (#4). For fastening in the rear arches of the body, special built-in parts are provided.
Part No. 5 - sealing washer made of thin rubber.
Detail No. 12 - a plate with a thickness of 2 mm for adjusting the position of the latch.

So, we start putting everything together.


It is necessary to connect the drive rod of the central lock to the lock. I wrote about it last time.


We attach the rods to the lever - exactly as shown in the photo. Symmetrically on the other side. I put a protective tube on the button pull, just in case, so as not to scratch the paint. We do not attach them to the lock yet, because they will interfere with its installation.


Then we connect the pull of the inner handle to the other lever of the lock.


Lubricate the entire lock well with grease for door locks, and the lock is ready for installation.
By the way, it is important to connect all the rods exactly as shown in the photo above. Otherwise, they will interfere with each other or cling to the door.

We put the lock in the door and screw it.


Then we insert the lock nut into the door and screw the lever with the rods. We insert the rod into the hole and fix it in the lock with a straight hook.


The pulls should be located exactly like this.


At first, I was able to put them incorrectly But it sometimes did not fit in, sometimes it clung to the door. Therefore, it is necessary to put it exactly like that, and in no other way.
Next, we connect the drive of the central lock to its pull, and screw it to the door.


Using the door lock button, we check whether the drive moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


Next, we attach the internal door handle to the rod, and screw it through the gasket to the door. We also check whether it moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


The pull of the handle and the pull of the button are additionally fixed each to the door with a clip.


The locks are installed.
We check whether they work correctly. Let's not forget about the locking lever of the rear inner door handles - "child lock".
Located on the end of the door above the lock.


The locks are also installed.


The door now closes, but it is necessary to adjust it even better and more precisely according to the locks and gaps.


I will do this when the doors are fully assembled - with glass, electric lifts, moldings, etc. In the meantime, you still need to put all the "shadow line" moldings in order, paint the outer handles, clean the seals, and remove the tint from the glass. A lot of work...

[martauto]

Incredible work and such detail mate
One day I will drive my e46 convertible over to see you and this car, it will take place !!

Mart.

[The_Glory]

Incredible work and such detail mate
One day I will drive my e46 convertible over to see you and this car, it will take place !!

Mart.

Welcome )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_40. ETK_51_Coating of the luggage compartment

To complete the door assembly, I need to wait for my clip order, get the outer handle mechanisms from electroplating, and paint the "shadow line" overlays. Therefore, in order not to waste time, I return to the rear part.
Body trim

Namely:
Trunk compartment trim


I had the most "rare" side panels of the trunk - the first years of production - carpet with cardboard linings in some places. In normal condition, but at the bottom they were very contaminated with antirust. Also, the right fairing was from the 316, not the 325. The difference is that for the 325, it does not cover the lower niche where the battery is located, and has a special stamping along the wheel arch to pass the battery cable. So, I decided to replace both of them with newer ones - a carpet on a hard plastic base. The condition is good, although I had to glue them a little in several places and clean them well with chemicals. The color of all skins is the same - this makes it easier to find a replacement.
By the way, before restyling and after restyling, the skins are also different - cutouts for rear lights, and a place for attaching a wheel wrench and a towing eye. But I will write about it later.

All the parts together do not fit on the table, so the photo is in parts.

Left side.
Detail No. 1 - left paneling.


On the diagram, on the left side, there is also detail No. 20. This skin is used on cars with an automatic transmission with electronic control. Photo from the Internet.



By the way, I recently wrote here about the bracket that is placed on the left rear wing.


I thought it was for a regular phone. It turned out that I was wrong - it is precisely the ECU of the automatic transmission that is attached to it.
And skin No. 20 closes this bracket together with the ECU of the automatic transmission, which is mounted on the wing.


Thanks to the author of this photo for the information about this bracket.
I never found a photo of the installed skin #20. It would be interesting to see.

So, this bracket will definitely not be useful to me.


Although, I still did not understand how it is installed... Apparently, it is necessary to drill holes in the drain near the trunk seal, and in the bracket itself. Doubtful decision, because of discharge of water from the hatch into the thresholds


Right side.
Detail No. 2 - right paneling. As you can see, its lower part is cut above the level of the battery niche.


Part No. 10 - battery cover (51 47 1 884 346). After restyling, the cover differs in the edge on the back (51 47 1 971 556). I have it right before restyling - with a smooth rear edge. My cover was pretty scratched up so I decided to clean and paint it. By the way, he also tested the purchased "tornadore" and "chemistry".



I expected a better result.... probably it is better to clean carpets and seats. Therefore, I lightly sanded the covers. Now I am satisfied with the result.


Painted with a special primer and texture paint for plastic. I also liked the result.

Part No. 11 - cover attachment (51 47 1 923 983) for cars up to 1986 - you need not two, but three pieces - an error in the ETC. I had to order.
Parts #12 and #13 are a similar mount, but for cars after 1986. Apparently, there are larger holes, so a plastic insert is used in the hole.
That is, either No. 11 or No. 12+No. 13 is used.
Part No. 14 - plastic protective shield of the battery terminal - prevents accidental closing of the key to the body when twisting the "positive" terminal of the battery.
Detail No. 15 - a clip for securing the shield to the rib of the wheel arch. By the way, the shield is still attached together with the casing of the battery cable with a plastic nut to the pin on the body. This nut is not shown in ETK at all.
Detail No. 16 - lining of the right niche of the trunk. Again, not accurate in ETK - this part is used on cars without a battery in the trunk. Otherwise, it interferes with installing the battery tray. At least I do.
Details No. 17 and No. 18 - it is not clear what it is and why it is needed. No. 17 is no longer available, and I bought No. 18 (51 47 1 872 821), but I never understood what it was for. Some strange hooks. Probably also an error in ETK. But if someone has them installed, please tell me.


Part #19 - an interesting part that I already mentioned when I wrote about the battery - a spacer (51 42 8 129 390)


This is a regular dense foam 90x35x50mm with double-sided tape on the bottom. As I said earlier, it serves as a support for the battery tray, and prevents the opening for the tray attachment from breaking under the weight of the battery. This is such a ridiculously simple factory solution! Just stick to the bottom of the niche.


We put the protective shield, fix it with a clip and a plastic nut together with the cable cover.


We put the battery and cover it with a lid. We fix the cover with two clips from below and one on the edge of the arch.


Now not a big addition. There is a special factory option - S428 Emergency stop sign / first aid kit with built-in storage box. But for some reason, the details of this option are not available in ETK. Since it is installed on the battery cover, I will write about it here. The photo above showed another box that I also painted. This is the same "box" - 72 60 1 929 409. I simply chose the size of the clip for fastening and inserting it into the hole.



Although, ETC does not find such a number...
But this option in the assembly - the original first aid kit and an emergency stop sign. I have talked about them before.


The box is placed on the battery cover and fixed with one clip.



As you can see, I haven't installed the side panels yet, as the wiring will still need to be laid behind them. Then I will install them, but for now they just lie in the trunk. As well as a first aid kit and an emergency stop sign.

Back panel.


Detail No. 3 - rear paneling. Just fits snugly between the lights and the plastic top bar.
Detail No. 8 - protective plastic bar.
Part #9 - bar clip (51 48 1 905 599), 4 pieces are required. These are probably the strangest clips I've come across. They need to be hammered in like nails with a sledgehammer! And as it seemed to me, it is better to first break off the pin from the clip, insert it again into the hole of the clip, and only then hammer it hard. I was afraid that I would break it, but I nailed it... Fastening for the ages!


Trunk partition.


Detail No. 4 - lining of the trunk partition. There is a regular one, with a cutout for a ski cover and for an additional tank. By the way, one of the reasons why I refused to install an additional tank is the lack of this cladding. And without it, the look will not be very aesthetic. My paneling had a lot of extra holes from self-tapping screws - at one time, the previous owner had fixed "music" and a home-made subwoofer there. Later I threw it all out, cut the hole for the subwoofer, and installed a ski cover.


I removed the holes and drilled two additional ones The fact is that according to the ETK, this trim is attached with six clips #21 (51 48 1 884 779), and it had only four holes for clips from the factory. And in the photo on the Internet, everyone also has four. But six holes are provided on the body. So, I decided to put in six clips, so I made two more holes at the bottom near the hatch for the cover.


Part No. 5 is probably a large metal plug for the hole for the ski cover, in cars where it is not installed.
Parts #6 and #7 are not used.

Next will be about the lower and upper skins.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_41. ETK_41_Body (front part)

There were some unforeseen difficulties with the upper lining of the trunk, so I will write about it a little later. For now, I will return to the ETK_41 section Bodywork

This time I will start from the beginning of the chapter.

Body frame


Here is such a beautiful body frame of a 4-door sedan with a sunroof (41 00 1 942 099), after it has been painted.


Front fascia




Parts #1-6, 12, 17 are the front body frame.
Part No. 7 - front apron bar (41 33 1 884 353), which is a separate part for cars up to 85 years old, and is attached to the apron with self-tapping screws and insert plates.
Part No. 8 - front apron for cars up to 85 years old (41 33 1 916 986). It is also called "oblique", because of the characteristic slope, as on older "sharks".
For 85-87 cars, the front apron and its bar are one part, (41 33 1 933 770), or with additional slots for air conditioning and for diesel cars (41 33 1 933 772). This apron is called "straight", because of its more vertical appearance in profile.
For cars after restyling in 1987, the apron is completely different (41 33 1 961 225) or with additional slots for the air conditioner (41 33 1 961 227)
In my case, a "straight" apron for a 325i from 85-87, with slots for an air conditioner (41 33 1 933 772).
Details #9-11 - fastening of the apron - self-tapping screws and insert plates.


Two self-tapping screws on the vertical posts of the front frame, and two on its lower part. Two more on the edges at the junction of the wing and apron bar.
The apron is installed temporarily, it will still be necessary to adjust all the gaps, and then it will already be fixed.


Details #13-15 - fasteners for the air conditioner. Therefore, I will write about them in the section on air conditioning.
Part No. 16 - rubber seals for towing loops. Left (51 71 1 916 185) and right (51 71 1 916 186).



They are tightly inserted between the apron and the spar.




Parts #18 and #19 - not used - this is a towing eye for E30 M3 only.

The following section:
Front body parts

As you can see, this is the entire front part of the body. Also shown here are diffusers for blowing through the radiator and clips for their attachment.
Parts #2 and #3 are not used.
Part No. 5 - for cars without air conditioning, and clip No. 4 for its fastening.
Part No. 6 and No. 7 - for cars with air conditioning, and clips No. 8 for its fastening.
I have so far only clips #8 (51 48 1 915 964). You need 4 pieces, and a whole pack arrived. Shields must be bought. But I will write about them in the section on air conditioning.


Details #9 and #10 - only for M3.

The next section is basically the same front part of the body, but in detail. Some of the parts are still available to order.
Wheel arch/spar


Everything is assembled.



Section on small parts and brackets.
Front fender details




Since all these parts are welded to the body, there is no point in talking about them separately - they are all in their places.


And it is worth writing about plugs.
Part #19 - plug (51 71 1 911 299) D=6.9MM.


Two plugs in the holes on the platform for the battery. They are installed only on cars with a battery in the trunk, instead of a plastic spacer (61 21 1 350 825), which serves as an additional stop when installing the battery under the hood.


Item No. 20 - I mentioned it earlier. Plug in motor shield. Apparently, this is another mistake in ETK - there is a plug D=35MM, but in fact, there is a 20mm hole. That's why I put the same plug there as in the trunk - 51 71 1 801 066.


Part #21 - oval plug (51 71 1 872 829) 30X36MM, used only on cars with automatic transmission. Two such plugs are placed in the holes instead of the clutch cylinder hoses. Not used in this case.
Part #22 - plug (51 71 1 972 464) D=52MM. Everything is correct here with the diameter - it is a large hole above the platform for the battery (in the photo above), through which the motor wiring passes. I don't understand what the plug is for. Not used in this case. Hole under the battery terminal:


Another section on small parts and brackets.
Front bracket


These details are also in their places. In addition to details #10-13. This is a steering column spacer for cars with an airbag. I probably won't be putting this option on my car, so it won't be used for now. And if I do decide to bet, I will write about it in the appropriate section.


P.S.
Several new bags have arrived for further assembly.



And several bags went to electroplating


I am also waiting for all the "shadow line" elements to be painted. I didn't risk painting it myself, because as practice has shown, I'm not a very good painter I chose the color from the selection of paints - semi-matte black. It should be beautiful - as in the original. ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_42. ETK_51_Body equipment. Soundproofing

To continue assembling the front part of the body, namely the hood, it is necessary to first install some other elements on it.

I'll start with sound insulation.

Body equipment

I already wrote about one section on sound insulation earlier. Today we will consider the second section on sound insulation

Sound Insulation


Details #1-4 - sound insulation of the hood. For some reason, I didn't have it at all on the old hood. On the new one, it, like most, was in a state of junk. So I tore off her remains, and the glue from her remained. There was no time to wash it, it was necessary to take the hood to body work. Then I forgot about the glue and gave the car for painting. The hood was painted there, along with glue...


The fool came out, of course. But we have what we have.
On top of the old glue, the sound insulation will not hold, therefore, it is now necessary to somehow remove this glue with paint. I bought a special rubber wheel.


I will say right away - after the first attempt, I realized that it is not very suitable for such purposes. Therefore, I decided to act in stages. The first stage is a hair dryer and a spatula. The second stage is a rubber circle. The third stage is solvent and rags. The fourth stage is painting in body color.


Spent the whole day on it. It's just some kind of horror, not glue!
1 stage


2 stage (as I already said - the result after the rubber circle is doubtful)


3 stage


4th stage


If I painted even the bottom, the hood should be blue too! But because of the light soil with which I covered the scratches, it turned out with spots - I told you that I'm not a very good painter!


But it is not critical - it will still be closed with sound insulation.

Now the isolation itself. It is available to order (51 48 8 103 798), but I did not like the price of 60 euros. That's why I bought 1 meter of similar material for 5 euros, made templates from the old hood and cut it out.




Maybe not as perfect as in the original, but the functionality is the same.


Especially since it will still be covered with a damping gasket (#5). Such a gasket was installed on diesel cars, on some 325i and on the M3. Mine was very dirty and rubbed off in several places. Therefore, I washed it with chemicals and glued it a little on the inside.


But painted it with black matte paint.


18 clips #6 (51 48 1 938 725 or 51 48 1 915 964) are required for fastening.


Previously, I had some other clips, so this trim did not hold tightly to the hood, which may be why it rubbed in places.
There are several different numbers of this gasket in ETK. In my case, it is 51 48 1 922 449, for cars of 84-87 - what is needed.


By the way, in the photo, clips 51 48 1 938 725 - look more beautiful than 51 48 1 915 964.

All sound insulation of the hood is installed.


But there are also other details in this subdivision.



Part No. 7 - soundproofing of the threshold front left (51 48 1 911 387) and right (51 48 1 911 388)
Part No. 8 - soundproofing of the rear threshold, left (51 48 1 911 389) and right (51 48 1 911 390)
I also cut these parts from similar material based on the pattern from my old parts. The material is similar to building waterproofing.
Part No. 9 - soundproofing of the compartment for small items (51 48 1 913 064). A foam insert that is placed around the gear box lever.



Part No. 10 - soundproofing of the partition of the luggage compartment (51 48 1 911 852). Cape made of felt. Just cleaned it. By hand, and very carefully, because it tears easily.


Part No. 11 - soundproofing of the rear shelf (51 46 1 929 488). I'm not sure about the number here. For me, it consists of three separate parts. The left and right parts of the "music lovers" were slightly cut when larger speakers were installed.


On top it was covered with another overlay. I'm not sure how it should be, but so be it.



So, in terms of sound insulation, only floor insulation remained. But first you need to lay all the wiring.

P.S.
Maybe someone will need my vibration and sound insulation templates.


The first 1:1 scale file for printing full-size patterns on a plotter.


The second file is at a scale of 1:5 for printing pattern drawings on a printer.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_43. ETK_61_Washer parts

Before putting the damper gasket on the hood, you need to install the windshield washer hoses and nozzles. Go to the section:
General electrical equipment of the car

Washer parts

I have a top-of-the-line system installed - with intensive cleaning of the windshield and with heated nozzles. The set also includes a headlight washer and cleaner. Therefore, now I will focus only on the parts that are placed in the hood, and I will write about everything else in the appropriate section. By the way, for some reason, the details of intensive cleaning are not specified in the ETK at all.


So - nozzles, hoses and wiring.




Part No. 9 - hose D= 4.6MM for a system with intensive cleaning requires 2 pcs.
Detail No. 10 - ordinary nozzles.
Item No. 11 - heated nozzles.
Detail No. 12 - nozzle heating wiring. Before restyling and after restyling, it differs in connectors. I have wiring after restyling, so I redid the corresponding connector on the body wiring. Heating works when the ignition is on.
Part No. 14 - wire holder (12 42 1 284 411), white clip for hose and wiring 2 pcs.
Part No. 15 - valve (61 66 1 374 978) for a system with intensive cleaning requires 2 pcs.
Part No. 16 - wire holder. For a system with intensive cleaning, you need (61 13 1 267 476) D=12.8MM green 2 pcs. and (12521276147) D=16.8MM blue 2 pcs.
Detail #20 - corner fitting. For a system with intensive cleaning, 4 pcs.

Hoses for standard cleaning and intensive cleaning are connected to the nozzles in parallel through tees (2 pcs.), which are not shown in the diagram, and corner fittings (4 pcs.). They are fixed with clips with wiring and attached to the hood. The nozzles are inserted into the hood and connected to the wiring. For the hoses on the damper gasket of the hood, a special stamping is provided, which closes them.


Hoses and wiring run along the hood ribs. I used a flexible steel wire for this.


They are brought out in the lower corner of the hood and attached with clips to the hood and to the body. In the same place, the "minus" wiring terminal is screwed to the hood bolt.


Hoses and wiring are led to the place of installation of the tank.


Injectors, hoses and wiring installed.


I will write about other parts of the washer in the section on headlight cleaner.
Next will be about the hood.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_44. ETK_41_Body (hood)

Finally, about the hood. Section again:
Body

Unit:
Hood drive




Detail No. 1 - a cable with a handle.
Detail No. 2 and No. 3 - two self-tapping screws with inserts for fastening the handle.
Detail #4 - tip. I don't know what it is. I did not find any information about him or a photo. No longer available to order. If someone knows what it is and where it goes, write.
Detail No. 5 - hood lock. There is a small nuance. The lock mechanism should have a white plastic insert, for softer operation of the spring, as in the photo below.


But, as a rule, it is no longer there - it wears out or is lost. By the way, this can be the same tip #4. I think so...
Detail No. 6 - two self-tapping screws for fastening the lock.
Part No. 7 - plastic protective cover of the lock mechanism.
Part No. 8 - rubber hood buffer 2 pcs.

I installed the hood drive a long time ago. Mine had a torn rubber insert, so I bought another one with a whole insert. We remove the lock mechanism from the cable and pull the cable from the cabin under the hood. Fasten the handle with two self-tapping screws.


Once again, I pay attention - the rubber insert must be intact, otherwise when water gets from the wing drain, it will flow into the cabin and onto the floor. That is why I additionally filled the insert with a wax preservative. Another nuance - do not put the cable until you put the noise insulation. I put it on, then took it off again. to install noise insulation.


We connect the cable to the lock rod. The photo shows a black soft plastic cap. Found it in the garage and replaced the missing white insert I mentioned above (tip?)



Lubricate the mechanism and cover with a protective cover.


We insert it from the side of the front frame rack and fasten it.


The hole between the bolts is an emergency opening of the hood. If the cable breaks, you can push a long screwdriver through the grill into this hole, press the pull and open the hood. Just don't tell anyone about it! And don't bend down too low - you can hit the hood in the forehead!


Lock in place. But then it will be necessary to adjust it together with the hood.


We screw rubber buffers into special holes under the front corners of the hood. Their height also needs to be adjusted with the hood.


We proceed to the assembly of the hood.
Hood




Detail No. 1 - hood. Apparently, this is one of the few body parts that are the same for all E30s. My hood has already been in an accident, it was straightened, puttyed, and not very smooth. So I replaced it with a whole one.
Parts #2-8 and #25 - hood opening limiter and its fastening.

The ETK does not specify the size of the lower washer (#4), so I took them the same - 8 mm. But then I replaced the lower washer 8 with a washer 10, because it did not fit on the axle.


Part No. 25 is a plastic spacer (51 23 1 906 523), which is bent in half and placed in the ear on the hood.


Part No. 22 and No. 23 - hood shock absorber and its fastening.
We screw the limiter to the body, and fix it with a pin to the hood.



We put the shock absorber and fix it with pins. Lubricate the axles with grease for locks.


Now, when the hood is held without any supports, you can put other parts.
We put staples No. 17 on the body.
There is one interesting detail in ETK that I have never seen on cars - bracket #19 (51 23 1 881 788). I ordered it out of curiosity. The bracket shown in the photo above arrived. Judging by its design, it fits into the holes on the left bracket of the hood and holds its cable.


But here I have a conflict of interest! In this place, I will already have the end of the hood for the standard alarm system. Therefore, this bracket will have to be moved forward.


Here's what happened.



I tried it on the car, and it didn't turn out very well - it doesn't reach the cable. Well, it will be so, don't throw it away...


Right side


We put rollers #20 and elastic stops #21.


We put on the hood seal No. 27. It comes in two types - short (51 71 1 933 992) 1520MM, and long (51 71 1 919 961) 3020MM, which extends laterally to the wings. I have a short one.


Details No. 13-16 - hood torsions. Mine were in bad shape with a lot of wear and play. There are no repair kits for them, so I replaced them with a good kit from the last years of production. Now the difference is very noticeable - the hood does not have lateral backlash, and it opens much better.


The same photo shows rubber stops No. 27 (51 23 1 916 567). I didn't have them before. They also significantly soften the work of torsions.

And one more detail, which is not shown in this section of ETK, but it is attached to the hood, so I am writing about it here - the hood "grounding" cable (65 31 1 286 068) to reduce radio interference.


Sound insulation remains, which I recently wrote about. I will briefly repeat here.
Details #9-12 - sound insulation glued to the hood.


Part No. 28 - damper gasket of the hood, which is attached to clips No. 29 (18 pcs.)


The hood is fully assembled. Then it will be necessary to adjust it according to the gaps, and the lock with staples.

Next will be about the front fenders, and then we need to finish the doors. The missing clips and plugs arrived today. But with galvanic delay... Therefore, it will probably be about wiring again. Let's see...

[martauto]

Incredible work and such wonderful detail as well.
I have never seen the secondary insulation on an e30 before, very cool !!

Mart.

[Cloggy Saint]

Great thread, well worth the time it takes for all the pictures to load! You've unearthed some interesting parts from the ETK too.

[The_Glory]

Incredible work and such wonderful detail as well.
I have never seen the secondary insulation on an e30 before, very cool !!

Mart.

Thank you.
Yes, it seems that it is not so rare.

[The_Glory]

Great thread, well worth the time it takes for all the pictures to load! You've unearthed some interesting parts from the ETK too.

I immediately warned that I will write in as much detail as possible about ETK and there will be a lot of photos

[The_Glory]

Assembly_45. ETK_41_Body (Front wing)

Next about the front wings. Section again:
Body

Unit:
Front wing




Part #1 is the front fender, which is the same for all E30s except the convertible and M3. But there are two types - without a hole for a side turn signal, and with a hole for a side turn signal. I had fenders without holes, but still I installed side turn indicators, but I will tell you about this "upgrade" or "kolkhoz" later
Part #2 - plastic protective shields.



Details #3-4 - self-tapping screws and built-in wing fasteners. Self-tapping screws No. 3 4.8x16 are placed along the top of the wing, 7 pcs. , and 2 pcs. on the rack of the body on each side. Self-tapping screws No. 5 4.8x13 connect the wing to the front apron, 1 pc. on each side.
Detail No. 6 - insert for self-tapping screw No. 3, 2 pcs. on each side. It is placed in the front part and connects the protective shields with the front plastic shields.
Detail No. 7 - plastic insert for self-tapping screw No. 3, 2 pcs. on each side. Attaches protective shields to the body.
Part No. 8 - plastic nut, 2 pcs. on each side. Fastens the protective shields to the studs on the body.
Part No. 9 is a rubber seal. Only used with the short hood seal I wrote about last time. If a long hood gasket is installed, #9 gaskets are not used.
On the left side, I have it cut into three parts - to install the automatic oil refill tank. By the way, an interesting nuance - after I thoroughly washed the hood and fender seals, I saw blue paint on them, very similar to mine. But this is definitely not my paint. Apparently they are from the same blue E30 - an interesting coincidence ;) I will, of course, wash off the paint.



Parts #10, 14-16 - are used only for the convertible.
Parts #11-13 - used only for M3.
Part #17 - additional rubber seal (51 71 2 233 121 and 51 71 2 233 122), which is glued to the wing, is used only for M3 EVO3. Maybe someday later I will also order them.

I installed the wings "temporarily" - only on a few upper self-tapping screws, and connected them to the front apron.




After all the gaps on all the body parts are set, the wings will be finally fixed on top with a sealant, as it was done at the factory - to prevent water from getting under the hood. All plastic guards will also be installed.
But more on that later. It remains to finish the assembly of the doors, and it will be possible to set gaps on all body parts. The work will be painstaking.
There are delays again with electroplating.
Also with the painting of the "shadow line" overlays - almost a month passed, the painter got sick and did nothing. Took them away, I guess I'll have to paint them myself. At the same time, I am engaged in wiring.

[fixedwheelnut]

The detail in this build thread is going to be a sticky in the Zone Wiki with the abundance of info in it, well done.

[martauto]

The detail in this build thread is going to be a sticky in the Zone Wiki with the abundance of info in it, well done.

I have the biggest regard for this thread and for this gentleman too
This really needs something very special so drop me a pm you guy`s as to what you think.

By the way ,He just happens to be in a very nasty WAR ZONE too

Mart.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_46. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing

We continue the section:
Body equipment

Its first subdivision:
Glazing


Three types of glass were available for the E30:
- ordinary transparent
- heat-insulating green Gruen (marking G)
- heat-insulating brown Gold Bronze (marking B)

In addition, the windshield (#1) could still have a green sun protection strip in the upper part. The rear window (No. 5) is always heated. But I will write about the windshield and rear glass later, since they will be installed almost last, after assembling the interior and lining the roof.
So, now we will talk only about door glass (#2, 3, 4). It differs (except for "deaf" No. 4) for cars manufactured before April 1988 and after April 1988. This is due to differences in the design of window regulators and doors. These two types of glass and window lifters are not interchangeable and can only be used in accordance with each other.
Of course, I have a sample glass before April 1988. With option S350A - heat-insulating green Gruen. It was tinted with a dark film by the previous owner. In addition, brown glass was installed in the rear right door instead of green. The tinting hid the color difference a bit, but of course I bought green glass instead of brown. I will say right away that the rear glass was also brown, but it will also be replaced with a green one, the front one will be new, also green, but more on that later.
All my door kit


A set of greens


Of course, I removed the toning film, as it was damaged in places, and almost completely burned out in the sun. Here you can see the difference.


And in general, I decided to leave the glass in the factory green color, according to the configuration according to the VIN.
The brown glass of the rear right door is not found often, someone may need it.


Although, for some reason, there is no "B" marking on it, but it is definitely brown.


By the way, together with the doors, I got one glass of a sample after April 1988. Also green, but with a different mount.


Interesting stickers remained on it, and some number engraving, something like a security system.


The next photo clearly shows the difference between the glass before 88 and after 88 - the different location of the mounting brackets and the different shape of the lower face of the glass.


On the left - until 1988 - the lower edge with "stepped" protrusions. On the right - after 88 years - the lower edge is straight. Similarly, the rear door glass.

So, the toning film was removed. It was very easy to remove the glue from some glass, and it was very difficult to wash off the glue from others. However, the glass was completely washed and polished a little for a better shine.
Front


Rear



If you look closely, you can see that the two glasses have a different manufacturer's marking - SEKURIT.


In addition to color, there were several different options of glass manufacturers. Fortunately, the shade of color is the same among different manufacturers, so they can be combined with each other. All the glass has the same color marking G. Although, it would be good to find two more glasses so that they are all from the same SOLIVER manufacturer. If I find them, I will replace them. The marking can also identify the country for which the glass was made. In my case, it is E1 - Germany, and E6 - Belgium. Apparently, my car came to Ukraine from Belgium... although, not a fact)

To install the glass, of course, you must first install the window lifters, guides and window seals. More on that later.

[The_Glory]

The detail in this build thread is going to be a sticky in the Zone Wiki with the abundance of info in it, well done.

Thank you

The detail in this build thread is going to be a sticky in the Zone Wiki with the abundance of info in it, well done.

I have the biggest regard for this thread and for this gentleman too


By the way ,He just happens to be in a very nasty WAR ZONE too

Mart.

Thank you.
Now it is much calmer near Kyiv than it was a year ago, but for now, still...

[The_Glory]

Collection_47. ETK_51_Body equipment. Door glass movement mechanism

We continue the section:
Body trim

In the previous post, I said that the glass and door windows are different for pre-April 1988 and post-April 1988 cars. This is due to differences in the design of window regulators and doors. These two types of glass and window lifters are not interchangeable and can only be used in accordance with each other. Until April 1988, the window regulators were cable-operated. Cable guides simultaneously served as glass guides. After April 1988, the design of the window lifts was significantly changed - they received a lever-type drive ("scissors") with additional glass guides.
Both types can have either manual or electric drive. At the same time, the glass of the corresponding type is the same, regardless of the type of drive.
There is also a nuance regarding the compatibility of window regulators with doors. Since the internal structure of the doors was changed after the restyling in 1987, and the structure of the windows was changed only in 1988, the "cable" type window regulators fit any door, and the "scissor" type window regulators only fit the doors after the restyling. To put them on the door before 87, you need to drill additional holes. The doors after 1987 have holes for attaching both types of window regulators.

So, now all my doors are restyled, but the window regulators, according to the year of production, remain of the "cable" type. Previously, the front ones were electric, and the rear ones were manual. But I did manage to find the rear electric ones, and now all four windows have an electric drive.

Unit:
Front door glass moving mechanism



Since I have never had front windows with a manual drive, then we will consider only electric windows - part #10 on the diagram.


Detail No. 11 - guide cable of the window lifter.
The guide (No. 11) with an electric drive (No. 12) is attached to the door with four bolts (No. 2) and three nuts (No. 13). By the way, the ETK does not show two more similar bolts (#2) that fasten the glass to the window regulator. But I will write about the installation of glass later.
Part #14 - 6-sided Z-shaped key for manual emergency closing of windows (54 12 7 199 322). It is used only for "cable" electric windows. In the event of engine failure, it is inserted into the engine axle through a special plug in the door trim and turns it like a manual window lifter. It is also used for electric sunroof.
Cover No. 15 and four screws No. 16 press the electric drive to the cable guide.


The cover of the electric drive mechanism and the rubber plug of the axle are assembled with the motor according to the ETC.


Part No. 17 is a plastic bracket that additionally fixes the cable guide. Apparently, for some reason, few people have kept it. I didn't have it either. Although their price is not pleasing, I ordered new ones - 51 33 1 919 541.


It is placed at the bottom in a special hole, and is fixed on the guiding cable.


While inserting the window lifter into the door by trial and error, I scratched the paint a little, then I had to repaint it. To prevent this from happening, you need to immediately turn the window regulator 90 degrees and put it in the door, then turn it back. It is better to do this before installing glass seals. I inserted the other three window regulators faster and without scratches. Align the holes and fasten. By the way, the photo shows empty holes for installing restyled "scissors" type window lifts.


P.S.
I did find my black factory clips for the pull of the door handle - I put them instead of the new white ones so that they were the same on all doors.

Unit:
Rear door glass movement mechanism



Here again the inaccuracy of ETK - the name of the section and the diagram are simply copied from the previous section of the front windows. But these are the rear ones.
Rear "cable" power windows are not very common, but I was lucky enough to find them in fairly good working order. Although I had to wash and clean them well, and then lubricate them. By the way, I did the same with the front ones for prevention.
So, we wash and clean the guides and cables



Then remove the cover, clean the cable mechanism and lubricate it.


On the other hand, we also remove the cover, clean the drive mechanism and lubricate it.


The protective casings on top of the guides became brittle from old age, so I cut new ones from the same material in their shape. They are attached with ordinary staples for a stapler.



I lubricated the cables and their guides with a special Teflon lubricant for window regulators.


Now they are ready to install.


The design and fastening of the rear power windows is similar to the front ones. Therefore, I see no point in repeating the description. The only difference is that the plastic bracket (#17) is not placed on the rear, although it is present on the ETK scheme. Obviously, this is just a copied scheme of the front ones. I tried to install it, but it does not lock into the hole at all and does not line up with the guide.


The installation process is also similar to the previous ones. Installed. In the photo, for example, a key for emergency closing is inserted into the drive.


The following photos are just for comparison and information.
On the left is a manual rear window lifter, on the right is an electric rear window lifter


The same, on the other hand


On the left is the front, on the right is the rear electric window lifter


The same, on the other hand


Now I can install the glass and seals.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_48. ETK_51_Body equipment. Lining of the luggage compartment

We continue the section:
Body trim

I already wrote about the lining of the trunk, but in ETK the lower carpet is a separate unit:
Trunk trim panel





Detail No. 1 is the trunk carpet, which is also a cover for the spare wheel niche. Available only in one color ANTHRAZIT. There was an option for a spare wheel with wide tires, and for an additional tank. In the first case, the differences are not significant, and in the second, it is much shorter. If I ever decide to install my extra tank, I'll probably have to cut my carpet...
I couldn't find the number on my carpet, so I think it's a carpet for a regular spare wheel, with additional reinforcing plates above the wheel.


After dry cleaning, the carpet looks pretty good considering I once spilled a can of motor oil on it


Detail #2 - support for the carpet. Standard (51 47 1 904 726), or for wide tires 205/55 (51 47 1 925 406). I had a black standard one - proof that the carpet is for a regular spare wheel.


But it was already broken and glued, so I bought a white, reinforced support (51 47 1 904 728).


For comparison:




The support is placed on the spare wheel mounting pin.


Details #3-6 - rubber ballast pads with a total weight of 15 kg. Used on 323i and 325i models for better weight distribution between the axles. They are placed at the bottom of the spare wheel niche, and under the carpet. I don't have them yet - in the process of searching. Therefore, a photo from the Internet:


Carpet in the trunk.


Only the optional trunk lid lining remained from the trunk linings. But there were unexpected difficulties with its fastening, so I will write about it later, when I overcome them.

There is a large hole in the front lining of the trunk, which needs to be covered with something - more on that later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_49. ETK_72_Spare parts + accessories (body). Cover for transporting skis

So, to close the hole in the trunk partition, you need to install the option "S464 Cover for carrying skis". To do this, go to the ETK section:
Spare parts+accessories (body)

Unit:
Ski bag


Part No. 2 - a cover for transporting skis (72 60 1 949 536). All other details in the E30 are not used.



Apparently, someone once carried skis in it, and very long ones at that! I had to glue it at the end.


Next subsection:
Ski bag details




Part No. 1 - bracket for fixing the cover (72 60 8 111 914). I didn't have it, so I ordered a new one under this number. But a bracket arrived with a different number - (72 60 1 949 536):


The same number in ETK has the same cover shown in the previous subsection. And in fact, the number 52 20 1 934 880 is indicated on the cover.


Part #3 - Locking mechanism (72 60 8 111 916) - is shown in ETK as a separate part, but in fact this button with a lever is an integral part of the cover body.


Again, some complete confusion in ETK... The bracket had to be filed a little... Well, that's it... the main thing is that everything fell into place. Although I put the bracket on the wrong side in this photo...


Part #2 - spring.
Detail No. 4 - a cover with a magnet for fixing it to the body in the open position.
The cover had to be repaired a little - a piece of plastic was broken off. Recovered it:



I painted the lid with texture paint for plastic, it turned out quite well.
Installed the spring and assembled the cover with the cover - ready to install.


Parts #5 and #6 are not used.

The cover is installed very simply - it is inserted through the lower grooves and tightly clicks into the hole in the trunk partition from above.


In my case, the functionality of the cover is limited by the back strut - it prevents it from being fully opened. But I definitely won't drive the E30 in winter, and accordingly I won't transport skis either! And even more so, I will not carry long fittings or boards
By the way, I have already mentioned the additional tank several times - now it is clearly visible that these two options are not compatible. So far I've chosen a ski cover from them...although I might install a tank instead...we'll see...
View from the salon:


Here the bracket is already installed correctly:


Some of my old photos after installing the cover:




The trunk is almost completely assembled.

[The_Glory]

Let's go back to electricity.
General electrical equipment of the car

Assembly_50. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 2)

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3 ... e_harness/']Jute wires (part 2)[ /URL]


I have long since started to put the main wiring harness in order and already wrote about it - the front and rear parts of the wiring were ready, the middle part, near the fuse block, remained. But in this condition, the wiring hung on the wall in the garage for almost two and a half years... And now, I have finished it!


Now we will talk only about detail No. 1 - the main wiring harness.


Detail No. 2 - instrument panel wiring harness. It is laid along the panel, so we will talk about it after its installation.

So, I not only brought the main harness to the proper condition, but also "pro-upgraded" it a little ;)
The front of the main harness has been done for a long time, now I just added new white connectors for the headlights, and one wire for the temperature sensor to activate the OVERHEAT check light. In the original, it was available only for the Japanese market, and indicated overheating of the catalyst. I don't have a sensor and wiring for this, and the catalyst itself has been gone for a long time. So, for me, this light will indicate that the second speed of the air conditioner fan is on.


There was the most work in the middle part.


I added the standard immobilizer connectors to the ignition switch connector:


Instead of twists, he added a separate connector for powering the phone:


I added the wiring of the light on signal to the common harness and connected it to the factory twists.


Added the wiring for the driver's seat belt warning light. This option was available only for the USA market, so it remained to find a relay and a belt lock with a sensor for it.


I added the reverse control lamp, the CHECK ENGINE lamp to the common harness. I also added a wire for the O2 sensor check lamp, which indicates a malfunction of the lambda probe. I have a lambda probe, but this lamp will not work without an "American" speedometer - maybe someday I will buy a USA dashboard. If I understand correctly, there is simply a special fuse on the speedometer board that blows every 30,000 miles.


I added the CHECK ENGINE wiring to the C101 engine connector. You still need to replace the Motronic 172 unit with a 173 unit to make it work.


Completely replaced the left driver's door connector, and added extra contacts for the door stop for options.


Added to the general harness and connected the wiring of the additional third brake light to the factory twists.


Connector for additional equipment C302 in the "full edition" version

Somewhere on the Internet, I found information that on the earliest E30, and maybe even on the E28 or E23, the airbag was not connected to a separate orange connector, but to the C302 connector on the I-O pins. But there is no confirmation of this in ETM for E30. But, just in case, I also added wiring for the Air Bag - maybe someday I will decide to install this option as well
I also added foams, which are not usually used - I will write about this later, when I get to the relevant options.


So, the wiring is ready for installation. I already wrote about fastening the wiring earlier, now I will start with its installation.
There are 6 clamps on the front apron.


2 clamps on the left and right behind the headlights.



There are 2 more clamps on the left wing.


Total under the hood:
12 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.

Let's go to the salon.
On the left, 1 clamp in the opening of the body near the speaker, and 3 clamps on the pins of the body. The black wiring bracket is attached to the motor shield with two plastic nuts.


White bracket for connector C302.


To the left on the floor are 3 stud clamps and 1 staple. Another clamp on the checkpoint tunnel.


Similarly, on the right on the floor - 3 clamps on hairpins and 1 bracket.


There are 7 white staples on the left threshold.


On the left under the rear seat, 2 clamps on a pin and 4 clamps in a hole.


On the right under the rear seat, 1 clamp on a pin.


Under the rear seat, there are 3 clamps in the holes.


There are 7 white staples on the right threshold.


On the right, 1 clamp in the body opening near the speaker, and 1 clamp on the body pin.


Total in the cabin:
9 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.
13 clamps attached to the body pin.
3 black staples.
14 white staples.

Then into the trunk.
On the left above the wheel arch, 2 clamps in the holes.


On the rear left wing and on the rear panel are metal brackets.


In total, I got the following amount:
23 clamps that are attached to the holes of the body.
13 clamps attached to the body pin.
3 black staples.
14 white staples.

Now you can start laying the wiring. I can't imagine how quickly it was done on the factory assembly line - it took me quite a while. After all, you need to carefully thread ALL the wiring from under the hood, through the hole in the engine shield all the way to the rear lights. Why they didn't make one or two large connectors between the fuse block and the interior wiring - I don't understand... But we have what we have. I had to get dizzy, but I did it anyway.
The wiring is laid under the hood. Front ABS sensors are connected.


In the cabin, the wiring runs from the left along the threshold, and along the floor to the handbrake lever. Next, under the rear seat, on the left and right, the wiring that goes under the bottom is connected. Rear ABS sensors are connected. The wiring goes along the right threshold to the end caps of the right door.


In the trunk on the left wing and rear panel. But you don't need to install the trunk lock before laying the wiring - it gets in the way, and I had to remove it. The wire for the trunk lighting will still need to be pulled along the edge of the trunk lid.


The wiring is simply laid, I will fix it with clamps, of course, when I have already laid the wiring of all additional options.

[The_Glory]

So, while there is free time, I will write about all blocks and relays, according to ETK. I will install them together with their corresponding wiring.

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Fuse block.

The next subdivision
Fuse block


Part #1 - fuse side (61 13 1 370 761) with contact retainer bars - is the same for all E30s.
Detail No. 2 - there are two types of fuse block housing:
until September 1986 (61 13 1 368 813) - is attached to the front part of the body support
after September 1986 (61 13 1 380 973) - is attached to the rear part of the engine shield
Accordingly, they are not interchangeable. But my body had the entire left strut replaced and the fuse box mount redone since I have all the main wiring with the post 1986 fuse box.



The photo shows two contact retainer plates. They are placed from below on the sides of the rows of fuses. To remove them, you need to press 4 latches on each - their grooves can be seen in the photo below. For clarity, I put them in place of their installation:


Attachment of the rear part to the motor shield:


By the way, the self-tapping screw for attaching the block to the body is not specified in the ETK.
Part #3 - cover (61 13 1 368 802). Most of them have broken latches, just like mine. It is good that it provides additional fastening with two self-tapping screws. The inscriptions were already half erased, so I erased them completely and polished the lid. Then I might order a new one with screws while it's still available. By the way, the cover should have a rubber seal around its perimeter, which is not shown in the ETK.
Part #4 - fuses rated 7.5A, 15A, 30A. There are also 20A and 25A. It is better to look at their number per denomination in ETM for a specific year of issue, as there are some non-significant differences.
Part No. 5 - two self-tapping screws (07 11 9 907 802) that fasten the block to the body. I think that they will also be suitable for additional fastening of the cover, since they are also not specified in the ETK.
Part No. 6 - a clamp for removing fuses.
Part #7 is a metal jumper (61 13 1 373 977) instead of the K9 relay. According to ETK, for some reason it does not go to all E30s, although this may be another mistake. I will write about this relay and jumper in the appropriate section.
Parts No. 8-10 - additional fuse block with a bracket. It has 2 fuses for connecting non-regular consumers. Maybe someday I'll find one for myself, just in case. And for now, the photo is from the Internet.


I will complete and fix the block after laying the wiring of the air conditioner, as it will be necessary to lead several wires to the block and add two fuses.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. ECU and body modules.

The next subdivision
ECU and body modules




Part No. 1 - rear lamp control unit (61 31 1 368 324). Only for cars with on-board control system. It is placed in the trunk near the left hinge of the trunk lid.


Part No. 2 is a standard wiper ECU (61 31 1 374 618). There are several other numbers of this ECU in ETK. It is placed in the fuse block (relay K10).
Part No. 4 - wiper ECU with intensive cleaning system (61 31 1 369 829). It is placed in the fuse block instead of the standard ECU (relay K10). It differs from the standard one by two additional contacts PS, TS. In the photo, the upper relay is for intensive, the lower one is standard:



Part No. 3 - headlight cleaner and washer system ECU (61 31 1 367 391). It is placed on the tank of the washer, if this option is available.



Part No. 5 - interior lighting timer ECU (61 31 1 373 974). It is placed together with the central locking ECU in the niche under the front left speaker.




Part No. 6 - standard relay of emergency signaling and turn signals (61 31 1 371 814). There are several other numbers of this relay in ETK. It is placed on the steering column.
Part No. 7 - relay for emergency signaling and turn signals for cars with a towbar (61 31 1 372 021). It is placed on the steering column instead of the standard relay. It differs from the standard one by an additional contact C2. In the photo, on the left is the standard relay, in the middle is the original relay for the towbar, on the right is the "aftermarket" relay for the towbar:




Part No. 8 - according to ETK is not used, but it is similar to the on-board computer ECU (65 81 1 373 726) or security alarm ECU (65 75 1 386 605). Depending on the available options, either one or the other is placed on the left under the instrument panel. In the photo, the on-board computer ECU is on the left, the security alarm ECU is on the right:



I will install all ECUs together with the appropriate wiring.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Heating of the lock cylinder.

The next subdivision
Lock cylinder heating




Part #1 - ECU of the driver's door lock cylinder heating system (61 31 1 374 784). It also includes the interior lighting timer function. It is placed on the mechanism of the outer door handle of the driver's door.


In most of these ECUs, the contact breaks off from constant bending of the door handle and they stop working. It was only after 4 or 5 tries that I found the ECU with a whole contact and it worked. But not for very long - he suffered the same fate... Judging by the crack, after a few openings of the door, it will also completely break off. Maybe I'll try to fix it somehow, but I doubt it will last long...we'll see...or I'll buy a new one.


Part #2 - heating bracket (51 21 1 375 188). It is placed on the cylinder of the driver's lock instead of the standard locking bracket.
Part No. 4 - ECU bracket (51 21 1 906 403). It is placed on the mechanism of the outer door handle of the driver's door together with the ECU.
The photo also shows the interior lighting timer ECU, which is also included in this option.


Part No. 3 - interior lighting timer contact (61 31 1 375 197). It is placed on the mechanism of the external door handle of the driver's door instead of the ECU of the cylinder heating system if this option is not available. In this case, only the interior lighting timer delay function is implemented, without heating the lock cylinder.

I will install together with the door handle and lock.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_51. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Relay.

The next subdivision
Relay




There are relays of different manufacturers, different colors, with different numbers, with latches on the case and without them - that's why I don't specify the numbers, they are all in ETK. The main thing is that the relay has the necessary scheme of its operation. By the way, the operation diagrams are also shown in the picture in ETK, and on some relays they are shown directly on its body.
We are considering relays only for E30 M20B25.

Part #1 is a relay with a closing contact. It has 4 contacts. It is placed in the fuse block (relay K1, K2, K3, K5, K6, K7). Also used as a fuel pump relay and an O2 sensor heating relay. It comes in orange, yellow, brown, blue, light green color.







Part #2 - a relay with a double closing contact. It has 5 contacts. It is placed in the fuse block (relay K4, K8). Usually black.


Part No. 3 - electric sunroof relay. It has 5 contacts with multi-colored markings. In a metal case.


Part No. 4 - a relay with an opening contact. It has 4 contacts. Blue color. NOT interchangeable with relay #1. Interchangeable with relay #5. I'm not sure, but maybe it's in the fuse box (relay K9). I will check it later.

Part No. 5 - a relay with a switching contact. It has 5 contacts. Violet color. NOT interchangeable with relay #2 and #4. They are used as comfort relays for electric windows.


Parts #6-11 are not used.

For some reason, the ETK diagram does not show the main relay. It has 5 contacts. White color. It is installed together with the fuel pump relay and the O2 sensor heating relay.

Relay installation scheme in the fuse block:

K1 - Electric fan relay 1st stage
K2 - Sound signal relay
K3 - High beam relay
K4 - Relay of dipped beam, rear fog lights
K5 - Seat heating relay, electric sunroof, electric windows
K6 - Electric fan relay 2nd stage
K7 - Interior heater fan relay, electric mirrors
K8 - Fog lamp relay
K9 - Relay for turning off the rear fog lights when the main beam is turned on (For France and Switzerland. For others, a jumper is used instead of a relay)
K10 - Windshield wiper and/or headlight washer relay

Three relays under the plastic cover on the left wing (numbering from the hood to the windshield):

1 - the main relay
2 - fuel pump relay
3 - O2 sensor heating relay

[The_Glory]

Let's return to wiring.
General electrical equipment of the car

Collection_52. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 3)

Jute wires (part 3)


Last time I laid the main jute wiring. Now we will talk about all the harnesses of additional options, which are laid parallel to the main harness - along the left threshold to the trunk, and in front of the front seats, through the gearbox tunnel to the right side. So, first I put a large harness of the "electrical package" (mirrors, sunroof, power windows, power window comfort relay, central locking, interior light timer and heating of the driver's door lock. Next, other options - audio wiring, electric antenna, telephone and hands-free system, heating of the front seats, heated rear seats (custom), standard alarm, lights in the interior mirror, interior lights, illumination of the hydrocorrector of the headlights. Maybe I forgot something else)
In the process, we have such a picture



Complete chaos under the wheel)


We connect the outer and inner parts of the door connectors. In the left door connector, you need to immediately install the cable of the standard alarm magnetic lock.



So, all the harnesses are laid, now you need to fix them properly. I'll start with the simplest, where there is less wiring - from the trunk.
On the right side, the wire of the central lock goes up through the wheel well to the hatch of the fuel tank, and the wire of the fuel level sensor in the additional tank. It is attached to the body with a metal clip. Since I did not install an additional tank (at least not yet), I simply hid the sensor behind the trunk loop.


The wire of the central lock passes over the wheel arch, is attached with a metal clip to the rib and to the bracket of the drive of the central lock of the fuel tank hatch.


On the right side of the trunk, that's all.
On the left side, there is more wiring - audio amplifier, electric antenna, alarm system, telephone. Fastened with two clamps.


As I said earlier, all electronic units will be installed together with their wiring. I installed the GSM phone unit not on the left rear wing, as expected by the factory, but under the rear shelf. I already mentioned earlier about the regular bracket, and its not very successful fastening with the drilling of the wing. That's why I like my version better - it's convenient and inconspicuous.



I did not install the audio amplifier, because I have not yet found the bracket for its attachment, the antenna still needs to be repaired a little. So, for now, just plugs.


The audio wiring turned out to be from the Touring, so the ground terminal does not reach the G300 point under the rear seat. I fixed it in the matching hole on the stiffening rib of the body.


Lamp control unit in the rear lights.


The wiring of the trunk lighting and standard alarm is laid through the hole in the body bracket, and is wound into the trunk loop.


At the exit from the loop, it is fastened with a tie, and is wound into the opening of the trunk lid.


It is laid along the diagonal stiffening rib to the lamp shade and to the alarm stop button.


The alarm and central locking wiring is routed along the wing and rear panel to the alarm diode (I mentioned it earlier when installing the license plate panel) and to the trunk central locking actuator. It is attached together with the main harness with metal staples.



All wiring in the trunk is laid and fixed.

Let's go to the back of the cabin. On the back shelf, we bring out the wiring of the rear speakers. But, since the audio wiring is from the touring, the connectors for the speakers do not fit, and an extension cord will be needed for the left rear speaker. Then I will make adapters/extensions.
Down under the seat is point G300 for the "ground" of all these wiring harnesses. By the way, all the harnesses did not fit into the standard rubber insert. I laid the wiring of the telephone, alarm and speakers through the shelf.


We also lead the wire of the third brake light and the rear window heating contacts here.


By the way, the standard alarm system is connected to the contact break of the rear window heating.


I don't know why, but that's how it is. Maybe this is how it will react to the breaking of threads when it is broken... But I did not check

Under the rear seat, the wiring is laid parallel to the main harness and fastened with clamps together with it. I routed the wiring to the rear seat heating buttons and to the phone in the center of the gearbox tunnel.


On the right - the ABS connector, the wiring connector that goes under the bottom to the gearbox, and seat heating.


On the left - the ABS connector, the wiring that goes under the bottom to the fuel pump, and the heated seat.


Then all these bundles go forward along the left threshold. The front part of the wiring will be more difficult to fix, so I haven't done it completely yet. I'll write later when I'm done.

[The_Glory]

The wiring is partially completed, so you can move on to lighting.
Lighting devices

Assembly_53. ETK_63_Turn signal lamp Pd/Pd Bik

Turn indicator light South/South Side



I will say right away that I never liked the original side turn signal lights on the E30. Their design is not bad, but on the car, in combination with moldings, they look like something extra. Some of them are too massive or something... So, I will not install them, so their not quite perfect condition does not bother me - I bought them just to be

Part #7 - left (63 13 1 367 801) and right (63 13 1 367 802) turn signal lights. Complete with metal clips.
Part No. 8 - rubber seal for the turn signal lamp, left (63 13 1 367 803) and right (63 13 1 367 804).
Part No. 9 - lamp 12V5W (63 21 7 160 797) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - clip (51 71 1 874 203 or 63 13 1 378 066) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X16 (07 11 9 906 734) - 2 pcs.

Everything is assembled. The wiring is the same on both sides.


The side turn signal lights are quite a useful thing in city traffic, so I will have them, but I will write about that later.

Front turn signals.


Part #1 - front turn signals assembly,
Part #2 - rubber seal (63 13 1 370 397) - 2 pcs.
Detail #3 - glass. The original comes from different manufacturers (SIDLER, ULO, ZIZALA (ZKW)). ZKW comes in different colors - orange, transparent and smoky, but for some reason they all have the same number 63 13 1 377 996. Therefore, when ordering by this number, it's like a lottery, but the usual orange usually comes I collected all the original options.


There were several more beautiful "aftermarket" options of those times, and many modern Chinese ones, but that's it... )
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw (63 13 1 369 303) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - lamp 12V21W (63 21 7 160 790) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - screw (63 13 1 370 849) - 4 pcs.
Item No. 12 is not used.

So, I install the side indicators - in non-standard holes in the wing.

Next, we insert the wiring into the hole in the body (I knocked out the metal plugs before painting the car)


And we take it to the cabin, where it will be connected to the wiring of the instrument panel.


The same on the right.




The connectors of the front turn signals are removed from the main wiring harness.



Of course, I will install the front turn signals together with the front bumper.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_54. ETK_63_Block of rear lights

Rear light unit




Part #1 - left (63 21 1 370 677) and right (63 21 1 370 678) rear light. By the way - in ETK it is literally said - "Rear light unit with fog light is right". But (63 21 1 370 682) - the usual right, without fog lights. This is proof for those who believe that the rear fog light was only on the left. I also added it to the right lantern - I like it better that way.
Detail #2 - tail light cover. There is a regular one, or with additional illumination of the trunk from the marker lights.
I have it with additional lighting.



Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (63 21 1 370 679) - 2 pcs.



By the way, just in case, I cut a couple more spacers from the same material along the contour of the original spacers. They turned out almost no worse
Part #4 - left (63 21 1 374 913) and right (63 21 1 374 914) lamp mounting bracket.


Part No. 5 - M5 nut (63 25 9 128 043) - 12 pcs.
Item No. 6 - lamp 12V 21W - 8 pcs. , lamp 12V 10W - 2 pcs. BOSCH lamps.


Part No. 7 - lamp cover fastening handle (63 21 1 376 879) - 4 pcs.

I already wrote about the restoration and polishing of the lights earlier, so everything is ready for installation.


But there is an alternative option - Startec! ;)


Tried Startec


But they are not yet in the state in which I want to see them, and they need attention.


Therefore, it will be the standard for now.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_55. ETK_63_Different Lights

We continue the section
Lighting devices
It has three subdivisions with the same name.

Various lights




For some reason, only one item - No. 20 - has been singled out for this subdivision. This is a fiberglass bracket (54 12 1 884 483) of the interior lamp. Perhaps such attention to it is due to the fact that it is practically impossible to find it whole! Both of my brackets have already been glued more than once, and broken again. I glued them together again, but they broke again, even before installing them... You can order new ones, but not cheap, and most likely they will break soon anyway. Very poor design and material. There are no analogues. So I enlisted the help of a teammate and he made a 3D model of these brackets, with improved mounting, and printed them out of more flexible plastic. Compared to standard:


Now they are firmly installed, and easily and without damage removed. A great alternative to the original, even better.


The next subsection is already about the lamps themselves.
Various lights




Part No. 1 - interior lamp (63 31 1 367 353) - 2 pcs. But probably everyone knows that the interior light is not very good in the front of the E30, so I installed a third lamp near the interior mirror a long time ago, and connected it parallel to the left lamp. That's why I have three of them. By the way, if you look closely, two are HELLA, and the third is from some other manufacturer, but outwardly they are the same.


Item #2 - 12V 10W lamp

I already mentioned the wiring earlier - it is the same on both sides. In addition, I made a similar wiring with additional connectors for the third lamp. On the left, we connect the home-made wiring to the standard one, and then connect both lamps.
Left:


Then from the left, front:


Right to standard wiring:


We insert the side panels into the brackets, and the front panel will then be installed in the electric sunroof panel instead of the plug.



Detail No. 3 - the button for the light switch of the box for small things.
Part #4 - not used.
Item No. 5 - 12V 5W lamp. I bought it, but then I realized that I didn't need it. Although, it can be installed in the button cartridge, but it will shine inside the torpedo Apparently it is for other BMW models.
Part No. 6 - trunk lighting lampshade (63 31 6 961 985).
Item No. 7 - 12V 5W lamp.
In the basic configuration, one ceiling light is installed, but there is a place for installing another ceiling light in the trunk lid. I guess it was some kind of option, something like "advanced lighting package"... I installed two shades a long time ago.



Item No. 8 - portable rechargeable flashlight (82 11 9 413 147).
Part #9 - glass with a lens (82 11 9 413 148)
Detail No. 10 - lamp.
The flashlight is in a special charging slot, in a box for small things. The white flashlight is rare and is no longer available to order. On newer BMW models, it is black, available to order, but does not fit the charging connector for the E30. But, if desired, it can be replaced together with the connector. I have the original one for the E30 - white, but as in most cases, the battery in it no longer works. Batteries will need to be replaced.
Item No. 11 - a portable lamp. It has not been available for order for a long time.
Part No. 12 - license plate light shade (63 26 1 372 763) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 13 - rubber sealing gasket (63 26 1 354 034) - 2 pcs.
If you order by HELLA number, the lampshades come complete with rubber gaskets.


Part No. 14 - insert for self-tapping screw ST3,9-4 (07 12 9 925 707) - 4 pcs. It is necessary to order such original mortgages. They are specific, shorter than usual.


At first, I tried to install standard ST3.9 sockets, but the holes on them do not match the holes on the ceiling lights. So I had to order and wait for the original ones. You can see the difference in the photo.


The original mortgages fit perfectly.


Part No. 15 - plastic insert for self-tapping screw (63 26 1 378 067) - 4 pcs. Apparently this is a mistake in ETK again - I also ordered them, but they do not fit at all instead of mortgage #14. Although, maybe there was a back panel option with holes for these mortgages.
Part No. 16 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X13 (07 11 9 907 720) - 4 pcs.

The previous owner of my car for some reason welded the holes for the license plate lights. It's good that the wiring remained - I connected them and they acted as an additional trunk light And finally, I will have a license plate light.


Detail #17, 18 - not used.
Part No. 19 - block with spare lamps. No longer available to order. If I find it, I will buy it.

Another subdivision:
Various lights


There is also only one detail here - No. 1 (63 31 0 138 864). Portable rechargeable flashlight. It has not been available to order for a long time. I would probably buy it too if I ever find it... ;)

[The_Glory]

Continuing the previous record, we move on to the section
General electrical equipment of the car

Collection_56. ETK_61_Different switches

Various switches




Part #1 - handbrake lamp switch (61 31 1 369 771).
Part #2 - screw M4X10-Z5 - 1 pc.
I installed it together with the lever a long time ago.


Detail #3 - door switch button. If there are electric windows, a switch with double contacts (61 31 1 370 805) is installed on the front door. A conventional switch (61 31 1 368 430) is installed on the rear door and trunk lid.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X9.5 (07 11 9 902 216) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 9 - front door switch button stop (61 31 1 370 695) - 2 pcs.
The front switches are screwed with self-tapping screws, the stop is simply clicked into the hole in the door.


The connectors are located on the main wiring harness in the niches of the front speakers. The window comfort relay and other electrical options are connected to the second contact. I will write about this later.
The rear door switch buttons connect to the wiring for the interior lights that I wrote about in the previous post. The connectors are located on the main wiring harness, below the middle roof rack. The wiring is laid inside the rack and attached to it with metal clips from below near the seat belt coil.


But from above, near the ceiling


The same on the other side.



A separate wire goes from the wiring connector under the back seat to the door switch button.


We pass the wire through the wheel arch and connect it to the rear door switch.


Screw the switch to the body with a self-tapping screw.


Similarly on the other side.
The trunk lid switch remains. In the previous entry, I already wrote that the basic equipment included one trunk light shade, or two as an additional option. In the photo, the "ground" wire of the switch is the lower basic wire for one lamp, and the upper one, with a double terminal, for connecting two lamps.


The basic option for one lampshade


Just two contacts per ceiling.


Since I have two lampshades, I made the power wiring for the second lampshade.


In addition, I have a standard alarm installed, which must also be connected to the switch button.


Therefore, we first connect the alarm system, then connect the wire for two ceiling lights and their power supply to its corresponding connector.


Everything is installed.


Parts No. 5-8 are intended for automatic transmission, so they are not used.

Another subdivision with the same name:
Various switches


All these parts are for special cars, probably for the police. I don't have a police car, so I don't have them and there's nothing to write about

[The_Glory]

Apparently, the brackets for the interior lamps are a very important detail - they were not just separated into a separate unit, but also duplicated in the sunroof section! So, let's go to this section.
Sliding roof and folding top

In fact, I decided to completely finish the trunk assembly - install the drain hoses from the hatch, the rear seat belts, so that I can finally install the side panels of the trunk. I also start with hoses - again from the last subdivision.

Collection_57. ETK_54_Soft cover of the lifting-sliding hatch cover

Lifting-sliding roof cover hatch




Part No. 9 (No. 1+No. 4) is a soft casing of the lifting-sliding hatch cover (54 12 1 924 517). No longer available to order. My car came with a manual sunroof from the factory, so I guess this cover in the front part of it was trimmed a bit to fit the electric sunroof. By the way, he is not very soft, but that is probably from old age.
Part No. 2 - a soft casing of the hatch manual drive mechanism (54 12 1 879 148). The hatch is not used with an electric drive.
Part No. 3 - sound insulation of the hatch cover (54 12 1 906 809). I have it in good condition, just slightly tinted That's why I left it as it is.


Part No. 5 - rear hoses for draining water (51 73 1 947 958) - 2 pcs. In ETK, their length is 1690MM, but in fact I have them 1350MM long. We run the hoses from the trunk along the rear rack of the roof to the drain pipes of the hatch. Just in case, I installed them on the gasket sealant.


Part No. 6 - clamp (54 12 1 874 589) - 4 pcs. Metal clip for fixing the hose inside the roof rack. I only had two, so I ordered two more. The number is already different (17 12 7 634 089), but the clip looks the same, only it is light in color.


The clip is installed on the hose and is attached to a special hole on the rear rack of the roof. But I was in a hurry to glue the noise insulation of the rack, so I had to tear it off a little. It's good that she stuck to it again later.


Another clip fixes the hose to the rib on the wheel arch. Next, the hose passes under the central locking actuator bracket and the end of the hose is firmly inserted into the clip on the rear fender ventilation grill.


Similarly to the left.


In this way, the water from the hatch is brought out under the rear bumper.

Part No. 7 - front hoses for draining water (51 73 1 922 405) - 2 pcs. In ETK, their length is 1700MM. They are not in the general photo, because they have been installed for a long time. I also installed them on top of the gasket sealant.


Next, the hose runs tightly along the front roof rack and exits into the speaker niche, where it is pressed by the plastic cover I mentioned earlier.


And that's all. Water from the hatch pours right into the threshold! In my opinion, this is one of the most ridiculous engineering decisions in the E30! That is why all E30s with a hatch in the front part have holes in the floor and rotten thresholds. Of course, I decided to fix it - at the stage of bodywork, this hose was brought out under the front fender and fixed with body sealant.


This is done on many cars. Water will flow on the lower fender mount, but it's still better than on the threshold and in the cabin!

Part No. 8 - again the same brackets for interior lamps (54 12 1 884 483). Last time I already said - the 3D copy turned out to be better than the original. Already installed together with lamps.


The cover is fixed to the roof with metal brackets that bend.


In the front part, there is a cutout for an electric sunroof.


Everything is installed.

[flybynite]

Absolutely phenominal attention to detail, it is the way I do things so I appreciate the effort gone in here.

I like wht you have done with the interior light holders, it is something I will have to deal with also.

Thank you for documenting it all here, it will help many people for the future! Good effort!

[The_Glory]

Absolutely phenominal attention to detail, it is the way I do things so I appreciate the effort gone in here.

I like wht you have done with the interior light holders, it is something I will have to deal with also.

Thank you for documenting it all here, it will help many people for the future! Good effort!

Thank you, I'm glad that you were interested, otherwise I thought that no one reads all my writing here)

[martauto]

I read it all too and what you have done is truly remarkable
I work in the same way, NO COMPRIMISE , after 48 years as a toolmaker in very different areas , what you are doing is simply out of this world mate .
Please do not stop !!!
This is the most comprehensive build of anything I have ever seen.
THANK YOU.

Mart.

(Hell, still in a War Zone, you are so special mate )

[martauto]

Absolutely phenominal attention to detail, it is the way I do things so I appreciate the effort gone in here.

I like wht you have done with the interior light holders, it is something I will have to deal with also.

Thank you for documenting it all here, it will help many people for the future! Good effort!

Mart.