E30 Zone

I got bored with working today.... so I started to strip out the rear end of my cabby.

After covering 25K last year, the noise from the back end has gradually got worse, with clunking and ticking from the drive shafts too.

I'm going to tackle the drive shafts, bearings, back plates, all the bushing for the rear beam and trailing arms as well as replace the flexible brake hoses as they're
well ancient.

This is what the right hand rear bearing sounds like! definite end of life!



Paul

Buy a big amp Paul

How they run is beyond me.

Mart.

Good idea Mart

- but ya'know its well noisy in the cabby anyway, but this was starting to bother me a lot apart from the ticking of the drive shaft UJ's and I was starting to feel it through the body.

Here's the culprit from the right side whch I liberated today, its half the outer race with extensive pitting, the inner is worse.


and here we are pulling it off !! The inner race always gets left behind on the hub as the bearing falls apart.



Paul

Pitting !!!!!
That looks like someone having a go at arc welding.
I`m glad you were bored Paul, for your usage of the old girl it will be worth it and we know it will be done right !

Mart.

Thanks Mart - I'll get the other side out tomorrow if there's nothing too pressing!

and yes it's true, the last outing a few days ago was so noisy I decided it had to be now - I want it ready and worthy for the next long haul !!

Had time today to get it all out!



Including all the bushes! This puller has proved invaluable!!


Made my own puller for the trailing arm bushes removal - simple and quick - I'll stick a shot of it tomorrow - might help someone.

Paul

Outstanding work Paul

Foe wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 11, 2020 8:08 pm

Outstanding work Paul

What are your plans for it all now Paul ?

Mart.

I'm in the process of making new brake pipes for the rear, fitting one new handbrake cable ( did the other one last year) and replacing some of the worst rusted components.

I've git an electrolysis rust removal bath running to clean up some of the most infected items, which I'll nickel plate.

Not gonna powder coat the beam and trailing arms, just clean, rust treat and paint with smooth Hammerite, they're all pretty much ok so will last past my EOL !!

New rear caliper seals going in, bushes, bearings, drive shafts and anything else I can see that's rough.

Also dropping in the refurbished 3.46:1 diff to test out, which will give me the chance to clean up the LSD.

So not that much really

Paul

Wouldn't recommend the Hammerite. It goes on too thick, is brittle, and when it chips, it's right back to bare metal. If you're treating the rust with electrolysis, it will be totally rust free, so I'd recommend a good industrial plant enamel and primer.

Thanks for the advice Brian - does Rust -Oleum qualify in your view??

Paul

paultv wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 13, 2020 1:01 pm

Thanks for the advice Brian - does Rust -Oleum come qualify in your view??

Paul

Haven't heard of that stuff, and Google doesn't help much - 99% of results refer to some nerd language and the rest are just ads. for buying it!
I presume it's another 'direct to rust' paint, which is designed to convert and adhere to wire brushed rust at the expense of their adhesion to clean metal. If you use electrolysis to deal with rust and are careful about positioning the anodes, there will be no trace of rust left, other than what forms before you can get the steel dry. With an ideal surface like this, nothing is going to beat good well adhering primers and top coats.

Something like these ?

https://www.frost.co.uk/chassis-paints/
Particularly this
https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-frame-cha ... degreaser/

Not the cheapest but is good stuff ever cheap.

... and in go the new wheel bearings!


Paul

Time to get it all back in!!




Paul

Looks brilliant Paul, this must be a joy to fit back on?

Mart.

It's great that everything is clean and tidy, especially the brake lines and hoses which are all new - they were in a really ugly state before and would have been difficult to replace without the rear beam being out.

The beam and trailing arms are now back in the car - tomorrow will be a bit more brake pipe work to finish off - and rebuild the hubs with the handbrake gear - then fit the "new" diff and the new drive shafts and hubs -

I'm also fitting my refurbished ABS pump - so I see a lot of bleeding to come!

Paul

paultv wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 09, 2020 4:05 pm

Here's the culprit from the right side whch I liberated today, its half the outer race with extensive pitting, the inner is worse.

bearing race_1.jpg

and here we are pulling it off !! The inner race always gets left behind on the hub as the bearing falls apart.

inner race removal.jpg


Paul

Angle grinder and a drift is how I often remove stuck races. Can I ask what brand puller you are using? I have been meaning to get one.

paultv wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:32 pm

Time to get it all back in!!


PSX_20200125_132929.jpg

Paul

BEAUTIFUL. I keep telling myself that one day I will do this to my road car

It was this set from Amazon...



Although this is Amazon Germany I'm sure its available in the UK.

Paul

getting the brakes assembled...slowly

Paul

Paul, as always, very thorough - excellent work. Are you still planning to do the big mileage in this car?

Absolutely - the car is great to drive and I want to continue using it on work trips in Europe - even after I had a head gasket failure 18 months ago in France -

Last year I did about 24K ... after the engine top end rebuild - looking forward to the same this year with the new rear end which was totally shagged from so much driving!

Paul

Good for you - your car will feel transformed now after all that work. These cars were designed to be used. Looking forward to seeing more pictures from your trips around Europe.

Finally got the diff back in this morning and all the brakes are set up and bled.

I love to see all that new pipework!


Paul

Another work of art Paul, did you enjoy this ??

Mart.

Hey Mart

It's been fun, slightly cold in the garage but my winter weight BMW overalls are super snug.

I finished off today fitting one new SKF drive shaft - and whilst it fits and is well made, it was a total bastard to fit. The rubber boot is of course severely in the way of the access for the supplied hex bolts, as is the steel boot retaining strap - which all in all makes it necessary to install all the hex bolts on the bench - this requires loads of silicon spray and a hex key which is almost impossible to use as access to the head is restricted by the rubber boot - which is tough... good! but not helpful.

You need it set the wheel hub at ride height so the shafts are staight and level into the diff flanges or you are seriously buggered.

I have to attack the other one tomorrow - so I'll attempt to film my feeble efforts - this is really a warning to anyone doing this as you have zero chance of fitting the bolts under the car.

The original BMW shafts were awkward but really no problem - so be warned if considering SKF shafts.

Otherwise it's all going well, looking forward to the first test drive on Friday! after which everything will be covered in shite of course!

Paul

Done about 300 miles and all appears well....car feels good....only thing left to sort is the rear propshaft UJ which I dont have the tools to replace as its staked.

Rebuilt 3.46 diff is totally quiet and feels like a great ratio for the motorway...I checked it today and get 138kph at 3.5k revs and 119kph at 2800rpm... car still pulls very well, so all in all a great swap....feels perfect on the autobahn, I'm getting 10kph more in 5th which sounds not much but it makes a difference whilst cruising. I have to get used to the altered gearing but it just feels right and the useless 1st gear now has a purpose!

So should I keep my 3.73 lsd I wonder?

Paul

and I thought I'd fit a new fuel filter since it was 6 years and many miles since the last one...



Pau;

Great work on tackling the rear end by yourself. I understand your move to a longer diff, when doing a lot of motorway miles the high revs can be annoying. Sometimes wish there was a 6th gear but as far as I know there is no easy bolt on six speed swaps.

So I sent my entire propshaft to VIP in Warsaw - they staked in two new universal joints and replaced the centre bearing.

It's also been painted and re balanced.




The whole thing took 8 days from pick up to delivery - at my gaff, and cost 245 euro's including shipping.

Paul

I dont think it`s a bad price for all package Paul
Good to last a fair few years as well.

Mart.

I reckon it's pretty good - didn't have to take it anywhere - and I don't have the gear to tackle "staked" UJ's otherwise I would have done it myself.

They were super quick and speak and write in English, German, Russian and Polish of course. They also have a UK website.

Paul

Looks a proper job, not much stopping it getting back on the road then?

Yes indeed - just ready for all the borders to close in Europe - my next trip was Lake Lugano in Switzerland next week - but that job has been cancelled for now...
propably not a bad thing really.

Looking forward to taking the car for a blast in a few days time!

Paul

Took her out for a 100Km round trip to dinner and back last night - all very smooth - nice to push the ton on the autobahn, all feels good and the niggling input shaft oil seal leak I discovered
on the rebuilt diff has gone, after I replaced the seal Iftted a month ago, with one from BMW.

My fault again... I should follow my own advice - always buy BMW oil seals - NEVER use anything else -

Paul