E30 Zone

Hi ,just read about classic cars being stolen for parts etc,so now I'm worried it may go missing! !!! Obviously I don't expect anyone to divulge their secrets but I'm interested in any good advice. ...I don't really want an alarm as I'm not convinced anyone actually pays attention when they go off?
I'm therefore looking for a good immobiliser? If anyone can recommend. ....is the code function on the OBC that stops the car starting any good? Or is it not really enough?
I'm not worried so much when the car is at home as it's pretty safe but more concerned for when it's out and about. ...
Cheers. ....

Auto watch are decent stuff

However, nothing is going to stop your car getting nicked so fit a tracker somewhere well hidden and you might get it back a lot quicker. Many can be set up with alarms which text you if the car moves. They also send you a text link to your cars exact location on google maps. You can also text the car to shut down the fuel pump on some.

About £20 on Amazon.

Some basic security, remove the fuel pp relay, use a steering lock circular thingy

Cheers mate , I always fit a big discloc steering lock when I'm out and about. ...fuel pump relay is a good idea too!!
I know if they really want it it will just disappear! !!! Just trying to stop/delay the opportunist.
Does anyone have any opinions on the code system via the OBC?

PM mr moooore he knows a nice fuel pump imobilser method

, ... VERY INTERESTING, ID LOVE TO KNOW TOO ! TRACKER IS PROBABLY BEST OPTION IN MY OPION,

Can't have too many security options.
Ps. NO NEED TO SHOUT!

The fuel pump mod is the best thing you can do and its not expensive to carry out either just a bit of time thats all.
But if they lift it away with a tow truck then i would say a hidden tracker is your best option.

Leigh

Best immobilisers allow the engine to start and run for a few seconds - long enough to engage first gear and to start pulling out into the road. If the immobiliser prevents the car from starting, the potential thief can sit there and work out how to bypass it, but if the car is stranded half way across a road, he's a lot less likely to hang around.
Mod. is a wire 'teed' into the green/purple fuel pump wire behind the LH front speaker cover, connected to a 'hidden' switch (which can just be a second demister type switch fitted into the standard row of switches) with the other wire from the switch connected to the earthing point behind the glovebox. As soon as the engine is cranked with the switch 'on', the fuel pump fuse, #11, will blow.
The 'standard' BMW immobiliser, the CODE immobiliser, and most aftermarket stuff, however many bells and whistles it boasts of having, can all be dealt with in seconds by a one metre length of wire with a croc. clip on each end. Sometimes two wires are required.

Anything we can do to protect our cars is good when you read things like this http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-35716456

Thanks Brian that sounds quite interesting, as electrics are not my strong suit any chance of a basic diagram? And what switch etc is required. ..
Many thanks for your help, if it's not wise to post on an open forum? We could do it via pm?
Interesting that most immobiliser systems can be bypassed that easily and yet they are insurance approved. ....

Brian if you could copy that info to me also I'd be very appreciative.
Thanks

Got mine booked in next Friday for a Cat 1 alarm and Immobiliser and also a Tracker.

Whats the typical cost of getting an alarm/immobiliser professionally installed?

viz007 wrote:Whats the typical cost of getting an alarm/immobiliser professionally installed?

I've used these people before close to me and they are very good: £300 for the alarm and immobiliser setup and £200 for the tracker so £500 all in which I feel is pretty fair to have it a bit more protected.

Mr-Lachs wrote: I've used these people before close to me and they are very good: £300 for the alarm and immobiliser setup and £200 for the tracker so £500 all in which I feel is pretty fair to have it a bit more protected.

that's not too much in the scheme of things especially if you plan on keeping the car for a few years

That was my thinking as well it seems reasonable enough and i 100% plan on keeping the car so a worthwhile investment i feel. It does of course need other jobs doing but ive prioritised this for now: my thinking being no point in getting other things done for it to get pinched!! Its garaged and never gets left unatended anywhere but ill feel happier knowing its done!!

Kind Regards

Russell

Aimed at the last four posts: The tracker and some kind of notification to your 'phone that the alarm has triggered may be useful, but please don't get the idea that the basic alarm and immobiliser form anything other than a minor inconvenience to anyone who knows what they are doing, and want to drive away your car.
It is possible to wire an immobiliser into the engine control circuits properly, but I have NEVER seen this done!
Typically they are wired into one or two of the ignition, starter motor, or fuel pump circuits. The first two of these are ludicrously easy to bypass on an E30, and the third is much more time consuming, but still easy.

All 3 are beyond easy if you want to just give them a direct feed with a jumper cable.

I would never take a car I wanted to keep to an alarm installer, heard too many horror stories of cars going missing shortly afterwards, an installer out Swindon way used to be suspect in this way.

TBH doing something slightly odd is a much better immobiliser, putting a switch into the crank sensor or coil wires would do it. Or isolating the injector earths would give you an engine that would crank but not fire. Both of which would take a thief ages to find if they were hidden out of the way.

Best security is a dropable bollard, no risk of low loaders then.

Agreed there have indeed been horror stories in the past. Fortunately the plce i use ive used for the last 15 years and have had at least 10/12 cars done there without incident so fingers crossed all should be well. Our garage is alarmed as well but at the end of the day i guess if they want it they will find a way.

what trackers do people recommend or are they all pretty much the same

Such a shame that security through obscurity is one of the most effective approaches Having removed the old BMW (dealer fitted?) alarm system, it really does amaze me just how simple they are to defeat, even for a wiring retard like me!

When mine is done, I was just planning on a phone tracker http://www.fastbikesmag.com/fastbikes-f ... .php?t=441, a disk lock thing and bolting the garage door shut and blocking it in with my daily.

For Thatcham approval fitting immobilisers we had to cut the original loom far enough apart so that the matching colours were not adjacent to just be clipped together again.
Top tip I do is leave that original bit of loom adjacent with a piece of black wire on it but actually run the immobiliser wiring inside the original loom further away so any one clipping on to it with crocodile clips will just be connecting to a wire going no where.

This may be a daft suggestion, but is it an idea to shorten the door pins to make it harder to gain entry the traditional way?

fixedwheelnut wrote:For Thatcham approval fitting immobilisers we had to cut the original loom far enough apart so that the matching colours were not adjacent to just be clipped together again.
Top tip I do is leave that original bit of loom adjacent with a piece of black wire on it but actually run the immobiliser wiring inside the original loom further away so any one clipping on to it with crocodile clips will just be connecting to a wire going no where.

No one who knows what they're doing will go anywhere near the alarm wiring, whatever colour it may be.
Croc. clip on coil + terminal, other croc. clip on battery + terminal, about two feet away. It's as simple as that!

Brianmoooore wrote:

fixedwheelnut wrote:For Thatcham approval fitting immobilisers we had to cut the original loom far enough apart so that the matching colours were not adjacent to just be clipped together again.
Top tip I do is leave that original bit of loom adjacent with a piece of black wire on it but actually run the immobiliser wiring inside the original loom further away so any one clipping on to it with crocodile clips will just be connecting to a wire going no where.

No one who knows what they're doing will go anywhere near the alarm wiring, whatever colour it may be.
Croc. clip on coil + terminal, other croc. clip on battery + terminal, about two feet away. It's as simple as that!

Also why I use other circuits other than the traditional starter and ignition

Circuits other than those two and fuel pump?

Injectors? Or would that not work. I assumed a switch in the common earth feed would also work in the same way as the fuel pump?

But that's tapping into the engine loom, which I've never seen an installer do yet.
That's the problem - if they connected to the engine loom (and knew what they're doing), there are several effective ways of immobilising the engine, including ways of letting the engine nearly start, which will encourage the potential thief to expose himself to discovery for that bit longer.
Late M40 ECUs even have a dedicated immobiliser terminal.

I would suggest as Brian says. Don't bother with an alarm at all.Fit a switch inside for the fuel pump wiring,i like the idea of wiring it to a short so it blows the fuse.A tracking device is a good idea though.

Brianmoooore wrote:But that's tapping into the engine loom, which I've never seen an installer do yet.
That's the problem - if they connected to the engine loom (and knew what they're doing), there are several effective ways of immobilising the engine, including ways of letting the engine nearly start, which will encourage the potential thief to expose himself to discovery for that bit longer.
Late M40 ECUs even have a dedicated immobiliser terminal.

Ah. Seems like a very missed trick then I'd assume all the alarms are designed to just cut/make a connection, and don't have to be linked to the starter/fuel pump?