E30 Zone

Hi,

Is it possible to buy a brand new lock set these days or is it a case of trying to source a good set from a scrapper?

Thanks

You amy be able to get the lock set from the dealers. Give them a call and find out or you can put up a post on the traders section.

if possible I would stay away from the scrapers.

i seen some one recently selling complete new genuine lock and ignition sets on german ebay.de for around 200 euro in some cases it can be cheaper to buy from there but most of the time its less expensive to buy from the dealers!

Why do you want to change all five locks?

Brianmoooore wrote:Why do you want to change all five locks?

I figured if I needed to change 1 lock then I would need to change all due to the wear in the key and for consistency.

I have more info since my post in that:

If the car is unlocked then I can lock and unlock via the passenger side (am I right this doesn't trigger the deadlocks).

Boot and ignition work no problems

Drivers lock is the problem and when locked it's a struggle to open. I have to wiggle the key a little to get the car unlocked. Either its the barrel that is too worn or is it possible the deadlocks have something to do with it?

Also when locked via the drivers side the passenger lock won't open, which I guess is because of the deadlocks?

Thanks

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30Door ... ebuild.htm

Ben

A new key (IIRC, type with built in torch is cheaper than a plain one) and a driver's door lock rebuild kit from the dealer is all you need to sort that, plus I'd recommend a remote locking kit from 'Rightclick', which will alleviate any future wear on the driver's lock, plus give you two more new keys.

Thanks for the info guys and the heads up on the remote locking kit. Didn't realise they were so cheap, will definitely get one of those.

I will look at getting a rebuild kit and figuring out how to do the rebuild. Does the barrel have the relevant code on the side for the rebuild? Can a key cutter cut from a blank key based on the code? I have only ever had a key cut from an exiting one.

Not knowing which wears down quicker, the key or the barrel. I may just get the rebuild kit and then try the existing key. If the key is worn too much then will get the new key.

Thanks

E30 keys are steel, not brass like inferior makes and most replacement keys, so tend to last quite well.
The tumblers in the lock barrel are individually numbered, so dismantle the barrel carefully, laying out the old tumblers in order, and writing the code down, before selecting the correct new tumblers from the rebuild kit.

Great, thanks. I have a new repair kit on order.

It's not only the tumblers that wear - the L shaped alloy bit on the back of the barrel assembly wears badly, and is only available as part of the lock repair kit.
It's easy to check if you have assembled the tumblers correctly by simply pushing the key in. With the key in, all the tumblers should lie flush with the barrel at the top and the bottom. If they don't, and you're sure they're in the right order, a file will sort it.

Cheers. I think a few YouTube vids might be in order, I am expecting it the be a bit fiddly.

I have just been looking at the remote CL. Is this something you have fitted? Just wondering if the system would still dead lock, also what the key code is for the blank?

I will give them a call anyway as I am sure they have probably supplied to a few e30's owners

I've fitted several of their kits to several BMWs, not just E30s.
I've posted the full fitting instructions on here a couple of times - a search should bring them up.
The kit doesn't set the deadlocks, but could be arranged to do so with some extra circuitry, using the boot release button on the fob. This won't deadlock the driver's door though,since that is purely mechanical.
HU50 is the E30 blank key code.

I had just the same problem as you, sometimes the driver's door would lock or unlock easily, other times it would need a lot of jiggling the key. I got a rebuild kit and built up a new lock, it is a little fiddly but tackle it methodically and you will get through it. There are a number of videos out there showing the process. It is quite satisfying once you have a new working lock!

It might be worth your while ordering some of the plastic clips that hold the door card, they are quite likely to break either when removing or refitting the card. One thing I found was that all the pictures show the U shaped clip that secures the lock in the door as a simple metal piece, but my car had the optional door lock heater which sits on the clip and makes it a much chunkier item.

Good luck with it!

I will have a look through the forum for some instructions. Should have a new kit in a day or so and also have a remote CL on order.

Will keep you posted

Thanks

Found this in an earlier post of mine:

Connections for the rightclick keyless entry systems are:
Remove the orange and orange/black wires from the plug by pushing in the little tabs and pulling them out.

Connect the yellow, yellow/black, and black wires together and to a 6mm ring terminal. This goes to the earth stud at the back of the glovebox, where all the existing brown wires connect.

Red goes to 12 volts permanent live. This can be the red/yellow wire that connects to the accessories socket.

White (lock) and white/black (unlock) go to the lock and unlock request wires of the car, which are found behind the speaker panel, coming out from behind the speaker.

The two blue wires go to the blue/red and blue/black at the plug and socket beside the accessories socket.

Thank you for all the info the CL. The RickClick system arrived today, so hopefully I will be able to look at fitting it this weekend, time permitting.

Presumable all the work will be in the foot well area, locating wires? i.e I don't need to trace any wires from all 4 doors?

Thanks

Every wire you need to connect to is behind the glovebox area.

Excellent info here!!!
Just jumping in so I can find this thread again, as I really should do this soon!!!

Just been reading some of the forum posts on keyless entry. I can see references to either two blue wires or two brown. I have the unit with on the one brown wire, so looks like no indicator option unless I use two power diodes.

My mistake on the brown wire, there is a big heat shrink containing the diode splitting the wire into the two required.

Fitted the system earlier, very straight forward especially with the info provided in the above comments. Successfully installed behind the glove box and wired into the turn signals.

Just an FYI - I had my drivers door lock replaced/coded at BMW a couple of months back, inc part and vat around 150 quid.

A benchmark for doing it yourself. They needed the car for the day as everyone had retired who could do it in the book 50mins time...!

Some pics of the wires:

Earth point:


Central locking wires behind speaker:


Accessories socket to splice into indicator wires:


Spliced into the red/yellow live:

where have the pics gone?

Kingswood636 wrote:where have the pics gone?

Looks like photobucket is down ATM. Hopefully the pics. will reappear when the site does.

ok cheers bud. Think im nearly done just need to do the actual lock wires

can you give me some more info on the wire for the lock and unlock as I don't know what im looking for lol

A yellow/blue and a green/blue wire in the loom emerging from behind the passenger speaker.
Yellow/blue is lock request (I think).
You need to splice your wires to them.

spot on. cheers

Worked a treat. Thanks guys