E30 Zone

Hi all just wondering if this is all I will need for some rear camber thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121128977555? ... 1436.l2649

No. They won't make the slightest difference to rear camber.

You could remove the rear damper completely and the camber would stay exactly the same as its not a structural part of the suspension.

Only way to adjust rear camber is with a modified subframe and eccentric bolts which allows you to alter the rear arm mounting points.

How much (neg) camber do you want? Most people try and reduce it as it naturally increases as an e30 is lowered.

Ok thanks I don't want to much camber but I will see how it sits ones it on the coilovers hopefully it will be fine thanks for that saved me wasting my money

My iS is on normal Apex yellow springs, and has just the right amount of Neg camber on the rear - don't know if that helps ya!

Mine on coilovers has way too much!

Mine on Eibachs wears the inside of the tyre to the cords when the outside of the tread is still at 6mm.

some of that is the increase in toe in you get as well as negative camber when you lower it though.

Pretty much anything other than standard ride height ad standard profile tyres will wear the inner edge first.

true - but toe isn't adjustable either, is it?
If it is, I'm off to the alignment place ASAP!

Only with a big hammer

ah well, I'll carry on dreaming of camber plates.

I just did the camber plate mod to correct toe, and it wasn't hard at all. Only took about two hours to do all the mods to the beam itself...


...and two weekends to strip and rebuild the back end.

Most BMWs already have outrageous negative camber as it is and as mentioned people try and reduce it, Once you lower the car the camber really comes out to play. Id say the 21 is waaaay more negative than the e30 but theyr both pretty wild

My Touring is really low on coilovers, and the toe in is definitely a bigger issue than the camber. I I think i might have to give the rear beam correction a go at some point.

My mate at the powdercoaters makes a great job of these now

I realllllllllly want that ^^^

DanThe wrote:My mate at the powdercoaters makes a great job of these now

They've been on my "one day" list for about 3 years now. Let's hope you can still stock them by the time I can afford to get the work done.

How much does it cost to powder coat these things? If you don't mind giving out ball park figure, that is.

Need to print out some of these pics to convince my garage guy that these things are really done on a 26 year old car.

Sandblasting and powdercoating is about £50 for a rear beam, I expect its a lot cheaper in india though

Don't think I'll find a sandblasting facility, it will be a manual scrape down. But will check.
Thanks.

You will never get the same finish without sandblasting

Automaton wrote:Don't think I'll find a sandblasting facility, it will be a manual scrape down. But will check.
Thanks.

You live in one of the world's largest industrial nations, there will definitely be powder coasters and metal finishers!

Not to mention the abundance of sand

There are I'm sure, just getting my mechanic to understand the need for it will be bigger than finding one willing to do this job.
And it's a country where a lot of jobs are still manually done because labour is so cheap.

Morat wrote:true - but toe isn't adjustable either, is it?
If it is, I'm off to the alignment place ASAP!

Excessive toe combined with the negative camber just rips through the tyre. The rears are a bit odd in the fact you get massive toe in but they wear on the inner edge, but that's mostly from the combination from the camber.

On the front, toe will cause so much more damage than camber, as it actually chews the tread away rather than just wearing on that part.

As above though, you can adjust the toe, but in the same way you'd adjust camber, through eccentric bushes or adjuster plates.

Is the above correct?

Toe out will always wear the inner edge, toe in will always wear the outer edge.

Same is true for the front and rear, only difference is the front steering slip angles depending on setup will wear the tyre faster and not because of the toe or camber.

Either way, it does chew tyres far more than I was hoping when I opted for the "mild" 35mm drop instead of anything more. Do the camber plates and wiggle bolts affect just the camber or is there a way to adjust toe as well?

I bought Dan's plate to adjust toe, but figured I might as well fit the ones for camber as well.

You slot the inner trailing arm mounts vertically; that sets camber. You slot the outer ones horizontally to set toe. I set mine so that the original hole was in the middle, so you can move camber/toe in or out by 0.6 degrees. But you could just as easily put the original hole at one end of the slot, purely to increase set toe in or positive camber from standard.