E30 Zone

Whats the best thing to do when getting a car back from a full re spray before/during re building it all

where should be waxoyled and stuff like that ? how much do you think il need ?

should areas like the bulkhead be waxoyled before putting the sound deadening stuff back in ?

how about under the kit, bumpers ? inside the rear of the bumpers ? would you coat the outer sills and valances in clear waxoyl before putting the skirt/kit back on ?

how about under things like the side door moulding strips ? could/should you put a little waxoyl under there or not ? (or anything else)

also do you think it would be best to put the car in a nice dry garage, and the bumpers, kit etc, all still seperate, and leave for a few weeks to really go off and cure, before putting it all back together, or just re build it ?

its likley il get the car back in september somewhen, but its not to be going on the road until the spring so could do with some general advice on the best way to go about things and any little tips etc , and also any sort of covering up/protective advice for a newly painted car thats going to be stored for a few months

Would be good to see a pic of where the car is at now?

its in the body shop nearly ready for primer, ive not seen it since i took it up there, but god progress has been made, il be going up there early in the week to see it and take some pics before primer is applied

an update yesterday, aswell as pics of the car can be seen here..

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... &start=400

I got the bodyshop to waxoyl my motor for me coz they had a spray gun which squirted the stuff in all the crevices like inside the wings. I did have to spend a little while cleaning up some oversrpay though.

If it was baked in an oven i reckon it will be cured enough when you get it but im ging back to the days when we used 2k paint.
Give it a few days i suppose to be safe.

I would give the paint a good coat of polish/wax to seal the paint etc.

In terms of waxoyl/wax protection.
if it was mine i would wax
1)inside the doors/along the bottom of the inside doors
2)inside the rear quarter panel areas
3)inside the sill if possible but being careful not to block any drain holes

Anywhere like the engine bay and inside the arches i reckon would benefit from a coat of wax too.

polsta wrote:Whats the best thing to do when getting a car back from a full re spray

weigh it in

lol

^^ LOL !

Loony wrote:If it was baked in an oven i reckon it will be cured enough when you get it but im ging back to the days when we used 2k paint.
Give it a few days i suppose to be safe.

I would give the paint a good coat of polish/wax to seal the paint etc.

In terms of waxoyl/wax protection.
if it was mine i would wax
1)inside the doors/along the bottom of the inside doors
2)inside the rear quarter panel areas
3)inside the sill if possible but being careful not to block any drain holes

Anywhere like the engine bay and inside the arches i reckon would benefit from a coat of wax too.

im sure someone said to me once itsa not good to polish or wax new paint for a while ?

although it will be garaged for a few months anyway so no need to wax it, i do need to get a suitable breathable indoor cover

I did mine before winter and was told to not wax it for couple of months, anyone can recomend bodyshops in London to do waxoil?
sorry for occupying the topic

Have you got pics?

How much did it cost, I am looking at hopefully getting mine done soon and have no idea how much the damage is going to be?

Thanks

d1mkaz wrote:I did mine before winter and was told to not wax it for couple of months, anyone can recomend bodyshops in London to do waxoil?
sorry for occupying the topic

you can do waxoyl yourself, although it prob best to have on a ramp to do the chassis and inside the holes, but all other areas like in rear quaters and doors etc you can do yoursel with a big tin of waxoyl ,applicater, and a heat lamp or a nice hot day, to warm the can up and make it more liquid like

Gavla wrote:Have you got pics?

How much did it cost, I am looking at hopefully getting mine done soon and have no idea how much the damage is going to be?

Thanks

no pics yet its still up there, different quality of places will charge different amounts and vary,also how much prep work, what you do yourself,or if you remove everythign/strip the car and re build, or if they do, etc etc, its not cheap work to get done

d1mkaz wrote:I did mine before winter and was told to not wax it for couple of months, anyone can recomend bodyshops in London to do waxoil?
sorry for occupying the topic

why not wax after paint?? i'm intrigued?

i was told that before, you have to let the paint really settle and properly cure

edit- have a read


http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh ... Breathe&s=

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... 3&t=213501

myth wax doesnt stop solvent to evaperate so when a bodyshop finishes a respray or a detailer flats and polishes a car they dont wax to finish a vehicle? any ways your car has been painted recently so its been painted in water based yor car been most likely flat and polished so just wax it cant see why not i paint 10 vehicles a week they get baked flat and polished then waxed and valeted

i dont have any idea, although theyve never waxed it straight after when ive had paint work done before

either way, the car will be covered and kept garaged for months anyway after and cant be driven for a while, so it will really cure whilst ebing re built, and im hoping next summer will be much better than this

Just do what the painter tells you to do. Then if it blisters and reacts, he can't say "you shouldn't have done this or that". Leave the ball in his court.

wise !

i will leave all extranal stuff for a good while before anything, got interior work to do and install new dash,obc etc

what about things like waxoyling the bulkhead before putting in the deadening ? (yes or a no because of heaters etc?)

any other sort of re build post re spray tips, rather than the paint appriciated to ensure everything is sorted