E30 Zone

started off a good day recieved volvo splitter and wishbone fitted splitter no worrys so started wishbone and the head of one of the bolts have snapped off on the lollipop it must be real tight

ive tryed heating it and using grips , and just drilled in the centre of the bolt and wacked a torx bit in there real tight it just rounded i have no ideas apart from last resort of get a drill bit slightly smaller than bolt then go buy myself a tap and dye set please any suggestions welcome !

having to deal with this on a daily basis......

I would recommend just drilling it out, 8.5mm for a M10 thread, then re-tapping the thread....

Any acces to heat, or anybody with a mig to weld a nut on, or get a set of irwin extractors

Could you drill a hole through it sideways and the put a screw driver or similar object through and use that to twist it out?

Prime candidate for welding a nut over the stub if you know anyone with one?

ive tryed a blowtorch but no go with that and no acess to a welder i think its going to be drilling it out then i suppose unless any other ideas arise i shall be looking in garage for decent drill bit in bout 10 :/

ive jus moved 60 miles away from all my friends so no one is near with a welder , i fear if i drilled a hole in the sode itll just snap the bolt as it allready has hole through middle should have tryed that one first going to look for a big drill bit now :/

if there is enough thread left, wind a nut onto the stub as far as possible then belt the end of the stub with a lump hammer, this will mushroom the end of the thread and stop the nut coming off, the shock will help loosen the bolt, then unwind the nut and hopefully the thread will come out with it

Get some PlusGas releasing agent and leave it to soak overnight, then try undoing it.

You could try the old trick of using two nuts locked against each other, then unwind it using the nut below.

Or get an Easy Out of the right size - it self-taps into the pilot hole with a reverse thread.

got dark now couldnt find a drill bit so left it to relax so i dont pish meself off more ill be tryin the nut methods in the morning then and see how that goes not sure if ive got nuts thin enough to put two on but defo the other thanks for that idea getting tools up here in clacton is a joke without having a car on the road to go further just rang around some car shops and even halfords dont have tap and dye bloody place !

That shouldnt be all that tight as there's no presure holding it in. Soak it with WD40 overnight and try again with the mole grips in the morning.

BATTS91 wrote:got dark now couldnt find a drill bit so left it to relax so i dont pish meself off more ill be tryin the nut methods in the morning then and see how that goes not sure if ive got nuts thin enough to put two on but defo the other thanks for that idea getting tools up here in clacton is a joke without having a car on the road to go further just rang around some car shops and even halfords dont have tap and dye bloody place !

Should be able to get 2 nuts on that and get it out.

Those aren't usually tight after you've undone it about 1 turn as the pressure goes of it.

Alternatively, wind on one large nut, then drill a hole through the side of either the thread above it, or preferably the nut itself going into the thread, insert a rod/bar or suitably sized bolt then undo it.

bodger wrote:if there is enough thread left, wind a nut onto the stub as far as possible then belt the end of the stub with a lump hammer, this will mushroom the end of the thread and stop the nut coming off, the shock will help loosen the bolt, then unwind the nut and hopefully the thread will come out with it

Nice tip, not heard of that one before

ill be trying that one speed touch thanks , thanks everyone else for your ideas got a few to try in the morning hopefully i can get it out without having to re tap it

that's a p1sser, at least there is plenty of stub left to grip on to.

try some of these


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-RECOR ... 2319322758

agree with magpie here,
i'd be using my stillsons, as there's plenty to grip on to.

I would get a gas blow torch, only cost a few quid and I have found heat will make most things shift, it seems to burn up the rust in there, there's probably water etc in the thread. get it hot, soak in wd40, should come out pretty easy.

tried with a gas blow torch like the blow torch a plumber would use and ive lefet it covered in wd-40 will tell in the mornin wether any methods work :/

if the stilsons can't get a grip or just chew it away then I'd use some stud extractors

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very unusual to come across this, I have only seen it once and when i finally got the bolts out water ran out of the holes !

A good soaking with WD40/plusgas and get the stilsons on there, should do the trick if not get the drill out, I think they are high tensile bolts:(

That video makes it all look so easy! My brother's Ford Ka had a brake bleed nipple shear off on one of the rear wheel cylinders, so an Easy Out was tried on it by a 'mechanic' - first he broke the drill bit trying to drill the pilot hole then broke the extractor itself, so we just bought a new cylinder in the end; he probably equalled the price of the replacement value in broken tools.

Speedtouch wrote:That video makes it all look so easy! My brother's Ford Ka had a brake bleed nipple shear off on one of the rear wheel cylinders, so an Easy Out was tried on it by a 'mechanic' - first he broke the drill bit trying to drill the pilot hole then broke the extractor itself, so we just bought a new cylinder in the end; he probably equalled the price of the replacement value in broken tools.

Why would anyone go to that effort for a wheel cylinder?

They cost fook all new don't they?

Stud extractors are shit. I've NEVER in 30 years had any success with them. When the shear off in the hole you've carefully drilled, it leaves you in an even worse position as they are high tensile, hardened tool steel. Try drilling that!

Those aren't usually tight after you've undone it about 1 turn as the pressure goes of it.

Not if it's cross threaded or rusted in.

mu thoughts were rusted in or cross theeaded aswell , as for water coming out well theres a hole jist above the bolt holes (not rust) and water poured out at one point :/

if you have to drill it goto screwfix and buy a dewalt extreme drill bit i use these day in day out in a battery drill and easily drill 20mm thick steel beams with precision and ease but keep it lubed with wd40 or similar when drilling.
take your time and let the drill do the work and put the drill on its SLOWEST speed
file the top of the stud so it is flat before you start drilliing
if you have access to a grinder then grind it back as close to the body as possible so you have less to drill

good luck

is it out yet ?

Can you see the top of these bolts from inside the car or is it an enclosed box section?

Just thinking wd40 would be a lot more effective if it could sit on top and work it's way in instead of just dripping back out.

I'm with Terv here. If its snapped the head off the bolt your waisting your time with a stud remover!



It's defos cross threaded. Drill it out and re tap will be your best chance I reckon.

Dezzy wrote:

Speedtouch wrote:That video makes it all look so easy! My brother's Ford Ka had a brake bleed nipple shear off on one of the rear wheel cylinders, so an Easy Out was tried on it by a 'mechanic' - first he broke the drill bit trying to drill the pilot hole then broke the extractor itself, so we just bought a new cylinder in the end; he probably equalled the price of the replacement value in broken tools.

Why would anyone go to that effort for a wheel cylinder?

They cost fook all new don't they?

There was a bit of a rush-job on to get the brakes bled in time for an MOT retest booked for the following day, having fitted new front hoses. Sod's law dictates that something crucial will seize up and break in such a situation, and lo and behold the nipple on the nearside rear cylinder did.

So, considering that the alloy cylinder itself was in good condition, we had a go at using an Easy Out on it, but as you say, it wasn't worth it and a new cylinder was ordered for £12 and fitted the next day, and the MOT was duly passed.

To be fair, the 'mechanic' who had a go with it went about it somewhat gung-ho and made a right hash of it. Done with a bit more care and attention, it may have worked...

Fair enough. I've fine simular myself in the past.

e30topless wrote:very unusual to come across this, I have only seen it once and when i finally got the bolts out water ran out of the holes !

A good soaking with WD40/plusgas and get the stilsons on there, should do the trick if not get the drill out, I think they are high tensile bolts:(

Steve is right, that bolt will be rusted solid to the captive nut, blowtorch wont touch it and drilling it is going to end in tears, if you lift the carpet in the drivers footwell you will se a couple of rubber bungs about 40mm diameter, if you remove these you might just be able to see the other end of the bolt, you can soak it in WD40 or whatever from here, heating it up will help the juice get further into the rust but you need to be very careful how you try to remove it.

I would go with the stilsons method, but tighten it first, screw it in so the clean thread of the bolt is going into the nut then get a load of WD40/oil sprayed into it from inside the car. Then you just need to take your time winding it out and back in until it gradually cleans the thread of rust as you go.

This wouldnt have happened if whoever put the bolt in had bothered to oil or grease it before hand

right i can get 1 nut on it but not enoughto wack the thread to lock it on ,
not accesable from top as it appears to be boxed in in the chassis presume so water isnt supposed to touch , i dont have any stilsons , halfords dont have any 8.5m drill bits ( only place open today up here ) and want £40 for tap and dye basically at the mo the car can go fook itself problem after problem and im finding more rust to repair too

Aldi or Lidl - can never remember which - had cheap tap/die sets on Thursday. They'll not be Snap-On, but might get you out of a fix.

any way of replacin this captive nut ? or would i need to grt to the other side ?? i have a feeling if i drill its gonna go wonkey n fuck it completly !