E30 Zone

Looks to me like that may need cut out. But only way to know is to grind it back and see if its good underneath.

Painting a car at this time of year is pretty much a no no, unless you have a heated garage to work in.

Will you be attempting this yourself?

Get a wire cup on a powerdrill or angle grinder and get all of the blister off, every last dimple.

If the metal is just a little pitted, then you can get away with a rust treatment, filler, primer and paint. In which case, spray on some Dinitrol RC900, let it dry, key it with wire wool and then start the filler process.

If you've got a pinhole though, you're going to have to cut the metal out, because it'll be rotten on the inside too and it'll just grow and grow and grow.

Grrrmachine wrote:Get a wire cup on a powerdrill or angle grinder and get all of the blister off, every last dimple.

If the metal is just a little pitted, then you can get away with a rust treatment, filler, primer and paint. In which case, spray on some Dinitrol RC900, let it dry, key it with wire wool and then start the filler process.

If you've got a pinhole though, you're going to have to cut the metal out, because it'll be rotten on the inside too and it'll just grow and grow and grow.

no to bendzie przejebane hehe

Rtaylor2208 wrote:Looks to me like that may need cut out. But only way to know is to grind it back and see if its good underneath.

Painting a car at this time of year is pretty much a no no, unless you have a heated garage to work in.

Will you be attempting this yourself?

i might drop it off at a polish body work shop see how much they would charge

can i leave it after new year or sort it ASAP?

Masz racie ze, to jest do kitu.

I wouldn't recommend leaving it for the winter; a month or two of damp conditions mixed with road salt really won't do it any favours.

It's made worse by your metallic paint job; doing a good paint repair will involve quite a bit of blending in, so a proper body shop will quote you hundreds for the painting, even though the actual rust can be dealt with quite simply.

Don't you know anyone with a welder? Pay them to cut out the rust and put in good metal now, cover it with a cheap spraypaint now, and then do a proper paint repair in the spring.

Dont know anyone with a welder

get it ground back to the bar metal. by the looks of it, it could just be a very small hole. 2 options, chemical metal, smooth it off, paint. or get it tacked up with the welder

I can recommend Bilthamber Deox get for treating the rust after you clean it back a little with a cupped wire attachement of knotted wirewheel for the anglegrinder/drill. I'll have pics up in a few days of how the deox gel works, very impressed with it though seems to lift the rust and leave clean bare metal.

It's quite a big bubble, there's a fairly high chance it will leave a few pinholes when cleaned up, which means the rust will be spreading allong the inside too.

Best option would be to chop a piece out of a car that's being scrapped and get that welded in.

Just about any treatment or rust killer a bodyshop uses will only buy you a bit more time, it'll never properly cure it.

i will get it in the workshop next week hopefully its not to bad and will try to get some sneaky pics

First thing in the morning get as much of that bubbled paint and rust off, and treat it with a rust stopper product just to try to put a hold on it whilst you consider the options.

On a 20+ year old car, its still very minor..

harry_p wrote:It's quite a big bubble, there's a fairly high chance it will leave a few pinholes when cleaned up, which means the rust will be spreading allong the inside too.

Best option would be to chop a piece out of a car that's being scrapped and get that welded in.

Just about any treatment or rust killer a bodyshop uses will only buy you a bit more time, it'll never properly cure it.

I agree with all of the above.

Getting a repair pannel from a fragger is always the most cost effective way of doing a proper job.

In my view rust will alway come back, no matter how small or what you use.

You are all wrong-as jozi recommends, the bilt hamber products are the ONLY rust remedy treatments that really work. I had some awful rust around the rear panel of mine 2 years ago, and used deox gel, and it took it right back to shiny metal (none of this 'turns it into a compound that can be overpainted' rubbish).

My 2 year old repair is still perfect, and i cannot recommend their products enough. And no, i dont work for them-i work in IT!!

If you dont believe me, google either deox or bilt hamber and see for youselves.

Good luck!

sh55123 is right. Bilt Hamber deox gel helps remove surface rust. It even suggests to use it with a wire brush. I usaully remove everything with a wire brush then apply some deox gel as a extra precaution, then hydrate 80, then etch primer, then your colour coat.

Bit of a hijack but where's the best place to get rattle cans for a quick fix?

I need dolphin grey but halfords don't mix it up at all and can't think of anywhere else really

Treatments like that will only work if you can actually get to the rust. If there are any pinholes, no matter how small, then it will have started corroding inside the sill.

It's also quite a stressed area, being by the corner of a door opening, the rust will already have thinned the metal.

It just strikes me that if you're going to have to grind, wire brush or sand, then prep fill and paint the area anyway you may aswell go a little further and do a complete repair.

Green wrote:Bit of a hijack but where's the best place to get rattle cans for a quick fix?

I need dolphin grey but halfords don't mix it up at all and can't think of anywhere else really

i know of a paint shop local to me i can get it for you and post if you want?

i would get that sorted asap before it spreads mate.

had a clean and applied some deox gel


After



Cant Belive that the smallest bubble had a hole behind it and the larger bubble was solid






Cleaned again and appiled some more deox gel see how it will turn out will take some more pics later or tomorrow

that looks cracking stuff doesnt it!

yeah it looks clean metal now will see tomorrow after whole night gel treatment

It's great stuff! Did you cover it over with cling film so it doesn't dry out?

Jozi wrote:It's great stuff! Did you cover it over with cling film so it doesn't dry out?

No But it did not dry out yesturday when i left it over night might be because of the wheather silly me lol

Your probably fine for one night with the cold, some of the thinner applied stuff dried on me. Still not hard to remove, it just needed a bit of working with a brush and i showed it a wire brush as well to speed it up.