E30 Zone

I'm planning to give a good crack at doing a 'home spray' on my car in a satin black.

I've been faily successful in, tbh, rushed attempts of spraying smaller parts of the car and generally know how to spray something cleanly. (I did loads of spray painting and stencilling for A-Level art)

Also, bear in mind its not really needing to be a "mint" job. Just a clean cover, paying a bit more attention to the roof and rear wings. (Just the main shell for now!).

What I'm after is that stealthy black look.



What I want to know, is how does one achieve such a finish. I've heard, but not sure, that its roughly 9 parts Satin Black, and 1 part laquer. Anyone know?

How to devalue your car

Ha, not worth much anyway with its whole "scratched'n'dented" and generally battered look its got goin on.

Its a "fun" car. Not one to go up in value. And I sure as hell cant/wont do a Diamond Black factory finish paint job. Nor will I afford to pay anyone to do it. So home style!

there is something out there called matting agent, my sprayer used it on an alloy he had painted for me, whether that would get the desired effect i dont know but it did look matt, kinda like single pac laquer...

do remember most matt paints aint waterproof,

matt black then laquer with matting agent does the trick

chalk board paint is

^^ as above but id say use a normal solid black, as it will give a bit more corrosion protection, the laquer will take care of the matt effect.

on that note dose anyone know where to get a good matt laquer in a can? could do with some for hitting up smaller parts.

Tatty Diamond Schwartz Met. paint and not cleaning it does the trick for me

I think John Deere does a matte black paint that's resistant to UV rays, which rattle can paint isn't, and will "chalk" off in time.

thats part of the reason for doing a solid black then matt laquer, the other is it will let water through depending on paint composition.

though i think the rust/water issue is more prominent for us.

you can also get army surpluss anti IR matt balck fairly cheep as well, its uv resistant, waterproof and ir/radar absorbent, not like that could help us in any way officer.

I dont plan on using rattle cans.

So what method should I use...???

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Just a couple of points for some of the people replying on this thread.

Matt black rattle can paint becomes lovely gloss black deep shiney paint the moment you lacquer it

Matt black rattle can paint will rub off very very easily as its microscopically thin

Matt black paint finish in general shows up marks extremely easily, the shine on normal paint helps mask some of the imperfections, so you need to do at least as much prep on the body if you want a super finish

The cars you have shown above will almost certainly be wrapped instead of painted these days

Matting agent can be added to lacquer, but unless you really know what you are doing and have decent facilities I would strongly recommend against trying this yourself as its very very easy to get all sorts of weird results !!

To my knowledge you can NOT buy matting lacquer in a rattle can, but then I would never have need of such a product so am willing to be proven wrong on that

Even with matting agent if you wash the car alot and "buff it" regularly as part of the routine to get rid of water marks you will rapidly end up with a satinised half shiney finish rather than dull matt

You dont need to buy "special" matt black paint, any base black will do if its designed to be lacquered on top - ALL the depth and shine from lacquered finish paints comes from the clearcoat not whats underneath it in that sense.

I hope this helps.

Personally I wouldn't do a matt black car as its been done to death, looks awful up close, rapidly loses its novelty value and basically makes you look like a gyppo !!

J.

^

just about sums it up

a vynal wrap is about the only decent way to have cost effective lasting finish

So, what do you reckon I should do?

Would a plain colour be easier then, or would a metallic paint be just as easy?

Nay, maybe you should consider using NATO Matt Black military paint. My fella used it on his Land - Rover and hand brushed it on successfully. Any Landy that you see with the green / sand / black camouflague combo will have (likely as not) used this, and I've never seen one that looks shiny or has paint dripping off in the rain.

Your problem might be getting it to your rock, however, as apparently not all couriers want to carry it.

I would think of a normal solid colour and just do that - you say you dont want mint but just want a nice clean job,

So I deffo wouldnt roll on camo paint, unless you are happy with the sort of finish you have on you walls at home on your car !!

If you HAVE to have satin black then just scotch up the top coat of the car at them moment which will give you a decent base to work from and ensure that theres no penetration through to metal, buy loads of basic black paint thats meant to be lacquered and apply it with proper sprayguns and compressor and just do lots of coats. I guess for an E30 sized car 4 coats would be about 6-7 litres of paint - check with the paint place that you dont need any other special stuff to work with water based paints (I dont know much about water based even though I own a bodyshop as the lads just get on with it !! )

That should do the trick for a half decent result.

J.

Cheers.

I'll obviously do some 'practice' tests on a front wing or something to check the finish. May do that asap to see what the outcome is.

When you say scortch the panel, I take it you mean a heavy scratch? Also, would primer be necessary?

Nay wrote:Cheers.

I'll obviously do some 'practice' tests on a front wing or something to check the finish. May do that asap to see what the outcome is.

When you say scortch the panel, I take it you mean a heavy scratch? Also, would primer be necessary?

Scotch as in Scotch Pad not scortch lol.

Ah ok.

Richard, do you recomend going to Corries (I think...) and speaking to them about what I might need?

Nay wrote:Ah ok.

Richard, do you recomend going to Corries (I think...) and speaking to them about what I might need?

Cory's, yep although they might lose you in technical detail so just explain that you don't know too much about paint and they'll explain what you need to do/buy.

By the way Nathan I really wouldn't advise buying any paint from them in aerosols that they make up themselves because the pressure is all wrong and the paint comes out w@nk. I think you will be dissapointed with the results from an aerosol anyway not to mention airbourne shit that settles on your paint which will piss you off, you thought about getting a compressor and a spray gun? I'm sure you can hire stuff like that from SGB and a spray gun won't cost the earth to buy.

I wouldn't use rattle cans to spray a body! I have a compressor, and an old spray gun. I'm not sure on the quality of the gun, but may have to get a newer/better one for top coat.

So, at some point, I'll go up there and see what I need. I think I'll try diamond black before anything else, as If i could do a few panels etc nicely that will make the car look much better.

aslong as the prep work is ok and you throw alot of paint on and flat it back ;)

Spraying is all about the prep! x-works made that "very" clear!

I'll be taking my time. If I do diamond black, or a solid colour, I'll take my sweet time. May have to wait a while before I can paint the shell, But I may do the wings, bonnet and bumpers as tests/practices. Then do the shell at a later date.

temperature is key when spraying to cold it wont go off too hot ittl dry as it hits ...

I think I'll be doing the shell in the summer, hopefully.