E30 Zone

Hey guys i'm new to E30s and BMWs in general. Coming from the Honda world. All i've owned is Hondas but I think it may be time for a change.

The issue is i'm quite confused between all the models. I'm looking for a late 80s/early 90s style but I don't know the difference between 318, 325 etc.

Are there any links with info on the differences? What i'm mainly concerned about is cosmetic differences but interested in learning the performance differences and options as well.

Any and all help would be very much appreciated. Hopefully I will be part of the community soon!

welcome to the site dude! you've come the right way
ur now in the zone! its basic on the numbers 3-series
and 18 or 25 is engine size dude check out some of the
members rides in "members e30's" and i guarantee u
wont go back u wont even remember who honda r

eun wrote:welcome to the site dude! you've come the right way
ur now in the zone! its basic on the numbers 3-series
and 18 or 25 is engine size dude check out some of the
members rides in "members e30's" and i guarantee u
wont go back u wont even remember who honda r

Thanks for the great welcome man. I was expectin flames and "do a search!" as usual :p

So the only difference is the motor size? I wasn't sure if there were any cosmetic differences. Does each model come in 2dr/4dr?

Damn I hate being such a noob, hopefully soon I have as much knowledge of BMWs as I do Hondas. The Honda world is fun, my last car ran 11.2@128 but the Honda/Acura theft is ridiculous in my area

318, 316 etc shows where the engine is in the range..

some 316's are actually 1.8's

styling differences are mainly to do with colour coding and boot spoiler

318iS is 2dr coupe only as is m3

all others come in all flavours

welcome mate!!!!

hope you enjoy the zone

with regards to differences between the 316, 316i 318i 320, 323, 325i etc they are fairly varied, but general rule of thumb....

316 is pre 1988 car with a 1766cc CARB fed engine (M10)

316i and 318i has either the 1600cc or 1800cc injection engine (M40)

320i is a 6pot 1990cc Injection engine (M20)

323i is pre 1986 6pot 2300cc Injection engine (M20)

325i is 2500cc 6pot Injection engine (M20)

tourings bodystyle (estate type) were only available after 1988

Most of the model range had a facelift in 1988-exceptions were the M3 and the convertible.

Better info inc the tech specs and the standard equipment can be found here...

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... nespec.htm

Wow thanks so much for the help guys! I really appreciate it. Are there any common issues I should look for when purchasing the E30? Again i'm really sorry about the questions. You're all probably tired of the same questions being asked all the time.

e30's go for a lot more over there 2 than here i check them on ebay and bmw prices seem to be a lot higher dunno y! have u got ur eye on
ne yet?

eun wrote:e30's go for a lot more over there 2 than here i check them on ebay and bmw prices seem to be a lot higher dunno y! have u got ur eye on
ne yet?

Yeah the prices are high for M3s but for regular E30s they are pretty decent. I haven't found one yet, but i'm looking! I wanted to do some research beforehand.

Welcome to the zone mate, you'll enjoy it here!

Goldfingiz wrote:Wow thanks so much for the help guys! I really appreciate it. Are there any common issues I should look for when purchasing the E30? Again i'm really sorry about the questions. You're all probably tired of the same questions being asked all the time.

not at all mate-we all started off somewhere!

common issues are

Rust in the boot- open boot and lift carpeting, check both sides next to the wings, its a water trap

Rust in the Rear arches- feel all round the curves of the arches to check for tinworm in inner and outer arches

*on cars with bodykits, be aware that rust could lurk underneath the kit*

M10 316 cars can run rough, generally due to the Carb being goosed.Webber do a replacement.

M40 316i and 318i suffer from camshalft wear and worn tappets-readily identifiable by loud ticking constantly. Not really a problem as they'll do moon miles in that condition (just use as a bargaining point )

M20 325i can suffer from cracked heads if not cared for- look for Mayo on the oil filler cap, or on the coolant cap. Can be avoided by coolant changes every 2 years minimum.

Tourings can rust badly on the rear hatch.

Basically, get in about it-the cars are going to be at least 14 years old-so HUNT out every fault-better to know about it before you buy and bargain accordingly.

Ideally take it on a test drive of at least 30 mins- check for excessive steam from exhaust once warmed up (gauge on 1/2 mark)

Watch gauge for rapid rising indicating air locks in cooling system or head trouble on M20's

Listen to the car- make sure it drives straight and that any auto's you test select all gears/modes

good luck

Thanks for the help 320Touring, I really appreciate it. I'm probably going to do a compression test on the motor as well and take it for an extensive test drive. I will look for everything you stated. The search begins

good luck mate post up pics as soon as u get one cos
everyone always likes to see new pics

Goldfingiz wrote:Thanks for the help 320Touring, I really appreciate it. I'm probably going to do a compression test on the motor as well and take it for an extensive test drive. I will look for everything you stated. The search begins

good luck mate
and if you need someone to help you look at one, I'm more than willing if you pay the airfare

320Touring wrote:

Goldfingiz wrote:Wow thanks so much for the help guys! I really appreciate it. Are there any common issues I should look for when purchasing the E30? Again i'm really sorry about the questions. You're all probably tired of the same questions being asked all the time.

not at all mate-we all started off somewhere!

common issues are

Rust in the boot- open boot and lift carpeting, check both sides next to the wings, its a water trap

Rust in the Rear arches- feel all round the curves of the arches to check for tinworm in inner and outer arches

*on cars with bodykits, be aware that rust could lurk underneath the kit*

M10 316 cars can run rough, generally due to the Carb being goosed.Webber do a replacement.

M40 316i and 318i suffer from camshalft wear and worn tappets-readily identifiable by loud ticking constantly. Not really a problem as they'll do moon miles in that condition (just use as a bargaining point )

M20 325i can suffer from cracked heads if not cared for- look for Mayo on the oil filler cap, or on the coolant cap. Can be avoided by coolant changes every 2 years minimum.

Tourings can rust badly on the rear hatch.

Basically, get in about it-the cars are going to be at least 14 years old-so HUNT out every fault-better to know about it before you buy and bargain accordingly.

Ideally take it on a test drive of at least 30 mins- check for excessive steam from exhaust once warmed up (gauge on 1/2 mark)

Watch gauge for rapid rising indicating air locks in cooling system or head trouble on M20's

Listen to the car- make sure it drives straight and that any auto's you test select all gears/modes

good luck

I don't think he has to worry about M40 engines, and rusty touring tailgate's being in the states!

can get tourings imported

your right about the m40's -never clocked he was in the city that never sleeps until after i'd posted.hell hopefully it'll help others

On 325s at least check that head bolts are torx and not hex headed. The hex headed ones are prone to breaking and can completely wreck the casting. Most should have been changed by now, its an easy job.

Thanks so much for the help guys.

Great news! The title to my CRX came today so I can finally sell it while I search for the right E30.

As far as pics though, i'll probably be posting more than you want to see since i'm into photography.

M8 I had a Mk2 CRX - fantastic cars!
Closest E30 is probably the 318iS nice chuckable 16v revvy 4pot with a bit of a power band, though the acceleration isnt quite up there with the rex due to the extra weight - you'll need a 325i for that.