I need some advice on buying one, what to look out for, common rust spots etc.
Im still a german car nutter and thats why im looking for the E30 beemers as they are old skool
Gonna miss the Dub scene
so anyone got any tips for me?
chers
Sat
E30 Cab buying guide
Moderator: martauto
Ok people time to sell my MK2 Golf GTi and buy an E30
I need some advice on buying one, what to look out for, common rust spots etc.
Im still a german car nutter and thats why im looking for the E30 beemers as they are old skool
Gonna miss the Dub scene
so anyone got any tips for me?
chers
Sat
I need some advice on buying one, what to look out for, common rust spots etc.
Im still a german car nutter and thats why im looking for the E30 beemers as they are old skool
Gonna miss the Dub scene
so anyone got any tips for me?
chers
Sat
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oneblueleg
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 483
- Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Keep one of each! Ebony and Ivory.... in perfect harmony...etc
Can't be of much use I'm afraid... I'm still quite new to my E30... rear arches, cam belt history... oil leaks... go for a six pot... normal sort of stuff... others will be of more help I'm sure
Can't be of much use I'm afraid... I'm still quite new to my E30... rear arches, cam belt history... oil leaks... go for a six pot... normal sort of stuff... others will be of more help I'm sure
1 Check hood a Ԛ£500 replace
2 check hood mechnism if electric (with a magnifying glass!!!)
3 check top of rear seats to see if sun has fried the leather and if the stiching is rotted.
4 check front/back carpets for damp/water marks if there has been a leak
5 check boot for signs of damp..water can come in through the hod tray or via a poor seal on the lights
6 then check rear panel around locks for rust
7 all the rest of usual e30 checks
2 check hood mechnism if electric (with a magnifying glass!!!)
3 check top of rear seats to see if sun has fried the leather and if the stiching is rotted.
4 check front/back carpets for damp/water marks if there has been a leak
5 check boot for signs of damp..water can come in through the hod tray or via a poor seal on the lights
6 then check rear panel around locks for rust
7 all the rest of usual e30 checks
Sry..i was just passing and noticed that comment...frosted wrote:if u have had a gti mark 2. and ejoy the performance. you will have to get a 325i to match it !
325i to match a golf GTI ... not where i come from
It might,might! have the edge till about 2-3k RPM but then its bye bye.
BTW...all the usual bits to look for...dont worry about too much oil under the engine,there prone to it,mine has it too but doenst drink oil..they all seem to have gasket trouble for some reason..
Interior and Hood are yer main concerns i would say,cuz both are expensive to replace...if its a 325 then you got a real good engine there,so any type of service history would be a major plus..like i said,usual stuff..
good luck
Interior and Hood are yer main concerns i would say,cuz both are expensive to replace...if its a 325 then you got a real good engine there,so any type of service history would be a major plus..like i said,usual stuff..
good luck
what i was meaning is that is no other model apart from 325i which will be fine for him if he is used and enjoys the performance of an 8v gti.
and plus yes they are actually quite similar in performance on the road, of course the 325i has the topend but below 90 there is not a lot in it.
and plus yes they are actually quite similar in performance on the road, of course the 325i has the topend but below 90 there is not a lot in it.
well ok but family has an 8v gti golf and it has nothing on my 325.not even up to 90...
were talking both cars stock here...
from a standing start the golf will have the edge but it doesnt last for long
if it kept up with you till 90 then their is something wrong with yer 325
If im wrong here then il tell my couz his car sux but i think im on the ball park here.
were talking both cars stock here...
from a standing start the golf will have the edge but it doesnt last for long
if it kept up with you till 90 then their is something wrong with yer 325
If im wrong here then il tell my couz his car sux but i think im on the ball park here.
Some of my thoughts...
Get the 325i, the c is heavier, you need the 170bhp. Check all the things mentioned above plus the following:
When closing the doors, the windows should go nicely under the hood without touching it.
Check also the INSIDE of the hood for tears and discolourations and the condition of the tensioner belts. When the top is down, check for paint damage on the hood cover bit, the back of the hood tends to leave marks.
Look for cracks in the chassis, especially on doorsills. (Never seen any, but have heard urban legends).
General M20 325i things to remember:
Look under the oil filler cap, MUST be totally black. Have a peak in the coolant reservoir, ONLY coolant there. If one or the other doesn't check out, forget the car, a head job is evident.
If you have the possibility, remove the valve cover and check the condition of the cam and rockers. They tend to groove, if oil changes have been neglected.
Finally, you will want to have a wind deflector! Makes a whole lot of difference in motorway speeds and early season top-down cruising.
Get the 325i, the c is heavier, you need the 170bhp. Check all the things mentioned above plus the following:
When closing the doors, the windows should go nicely under the hood without touching it.
Check also the INSIDE of the hood for tears and discolourations and the condition of the tensioner belts. When the top is down, check for paint damage on the hood cover bit, the back of the hood tends to leave marks.
Look for cracks in the chassis, especially on doorsills. (Never seen any, but have heard urban legends).
General M20 325i things to remember:
Look under the oil filler cap, MUST be totally black. Have a peak in the coolant reservoir, ONLY coolant there. If one or the other doesn't check out, forget the car, a head job is evident.
If you have the possibility, remove the valve cover and check the condition of the cam and rockers. They tend to groove, if oil changes have been neglected.
Finally, you will want to have a wind deflector! Makes a whole lot of difference in motorway speeds and early season top-down cruising.
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Guest
Also make sure the head bolts are Torx headed, the hex headed ones can break which is why most have been replaced by now. If one or more does brake it can completely wreck the head casting.
Hello , new on this forum , actually i'am seling my Triumph TR6 PI to buy a 325i Cabrio for the familly , 2 small kids and a 2 doors 325 for track days .
I bought a 88 325IX a year and half ago to make ice racing , but the car is good that now is my wife's car .
And because of this hw decide to sell the TR and buy 2 more 325 !!!
For the cabrio , il like do know what kind of suspensions is the best to lower the car , no to much , 2 cms is more than ok , my goal is a car with less roll but still a little confortable .
Nice this buying guide .
I bought a 88 325IX a year and half ago to make ice racing , but the car is good that now is my wife's car .
And because of this hw decide to sell the TR and buy 2 more 325 !!!
For the cabrio , il like do know what kind of suspensions is the best to lower the car , no to much , 2 cms is more than ok , my goal is a car with less roll but still a little confortable .
Nice this buying guide .