E30 Zone

700 is for an entire set, dampers,springs and top-mounts. For such soft springs Yellow Koni's is the best bet.

Get proper race suspension. Not street/sport suspension. Cheapest you can go is about 700 pounds.

What bushings are these? From a 5series or something? Got pics?

Mine is.

I have that set-up on my E30, 17x8 ET05. A bit different, but it sticks out the same. At the rear it fits with rolled fenders. At the front it clears the fenders if you don't lower it more than 4cm. You should get stiff enough suspension or it might still rub. The rim almost hits the fender in the c...

That can not be right. The 5th gear from the E36 is 1:1. I don't know about the E34.

Exactly the same, but the 6th gear is an overdrive. Around 0.82something I believe.

tregzybmw wrote:to add to the tyre fitting discussions...

my mate has hartage alloys, fronts are 8.5j and are running 205's, rear alloys are 9.5j and are running 225's

topic here:

Cruise-south-west

What's the ET's?

17"

I wanted to go 15", but that just doesn't fit. You need to grind the caliper if you want to do that. About 5mm I think so 16" wheels should fit fine with or without a spacer.

I have the same brakes up front and 16" fit as long as you have the right design rim. You can use spacers to compensate for the rimdesign.

Get a 15-25mm spacer.

Around 10-20 is needed. 37=spacer

I have Alpina top-mounts laying around, but these are very rare. An option might be just buying new adjustable camberplates.

Nope.

I have GrpN springs laying around. F/R 120N/mm, 180N/mm. Also with custum valved Bilstein race dampers and offset top-mounts for more negative camber. This set-up fits an E30. You interested?

That's true. The M3 bearing is a little bit larger. What suspension are you looking for? There are cheaper ways to get GrpN/race suspension. Do you really want coil-overs? I might be able to get you a set.

For that cash you can just as well spend a bit more and get an M3/M5 engine.

IMPOSSIBLE! With that amount of cash you won't be able to get race suspension. There are some cheaper ways to get a race suspension, but it would still be above 500 pounds. Even normal sportshocks from Bilstein/Koni are almost 300pounds. Bilstein MSP shocks are around 430pounds which is about the ch...

I think the bolts are mounted in a different place, but I'm not sure. You would also redrill the M3 disks to 4x100.

The eccentric ones are for the M3 which has more castor. CASTOR

toe causes the extra wear not camber.

You can use E36 parts at the front. It just bolts on with the right parts.

I don't think you understand the castor story. The E36 has the wheel about 2-3cm more at the back which means you already have massive castor. This is something you can not change. If you recenter the wheel by an M3 bushing then you move the pivot point of the strut more forward which means you get ...

Simply get the front E36 damper/strut assembly. Also an E36 hub. With the E36 the hub is a loose part that you bolt onto the strut. The controlarms are the same. You need to put a E30 top mount onto the damper. That's basicly it. You will have massive castor though which isn't good. You will need at...

I have it on my car. I haven't removed the hub so I don't know the specs of the bushing. Maybe I can have more made if multiple people are interested.

It fits, but you need to make a small bushing. Nothing big.

You can also just get E30 M3 front hubs. Price is around 120 pounds.

Ferodo 2500

The E30 and E36 control arms are the same. The problem is not the control arm, but the design of the E36 hub.

It does fit, no problem there. You can just drive the car, no problem either. You just will lose front end grip because of the castor. If it's a street machine then you might not even notice it. The E30 already understeers from the factory and now you make it understeer even more. There are people w...

Even then there is way to much castor. Bushings or even a fully adjustable uniball at the rear of the controlarm won't do the trick.

To much caster if you're going to swap to E36 suspension at the front.

You can just swap the entire front axle. Controlarm is basicly the same. You can just reuse your tierods and steeringsystem.

You use a liquid gasket. It's interchangeble as long as both diffs are the small one or big one.

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