E30 Zone

You will be able to use the fuel filler recessed piece from a standard e30. Just need to cut out the old section and weld in the replacement. Not a big job for a decent body shop.

Those screws are used to balance the individual throttle bodies. If you do a search for balancing ITBs on S14.net there is plenty of info on how to set them.

Yes the charge bulb in the dash is part of the charging circuit. If it’s blown then the battery will not charge. Also check the earth on the back of the alternator. If that’s broken or loose then you will also get no charge or light on in the dash

Yes the ECUs are the same it’s just the chip that differs between the 195 and 215 models. I don’t have a 215 chip or you would be welcome to it.

The new alternator could have a faulty voltage regulator and the voltage is going up under load. Test it with a voltmeter to confirm.

Those readings for the sensor seem about right. I would check which wires in the ecu plug are from the sensor and check resistance there. That will confirm both the sensor and wiring is good.

I would just change the oil and then do it again after a 1000 miles. That should get rid of most of the contaminant. Those that remain will be stuck down in best not to disturb them unless you are planning on stripping the box down

Yes. I would try adjusting the linkage.

Ultra racing Strut brace £94.86 http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j215/cypriotgeeza/100_0081.jpg Hmmm... That picture is of the ultra one fitted to my car. It works better than the sparco jointed one. Not had any problems with the slotted holes. Got mine from Neil at auto Mac a couple of years ago ...

I bought a Bosch s4 from ecp. Can't go wrong at about £60 and 4 year warranty. OE on a battery is little too anal even for me.

No the large ones are available. The small ones are NLA

They're about £20 each new from the dealer and still available. I checked 3 weeks ago.

Most rad repair places will do it too. That's the kind of thing they would do regularly.

It also seems to be missing the splitter on the front spoiler.

To me looks like a well kept convertible with a 2.5 S14 engine.

Gareth can you PM me your contact details please

Thanks Bal

I'd like to add another positive feedback here. Item agreed and delivered, minimal hassle, nice person to deal with.

Bal

Just swap the mechanism from your LHD mirror and it will be fine. I did this 7 years ago and had no problem.

Look up Royal Steering Wheels on Google. Jack does great job and is very reliable. I've just had one done on my E46 for about £110 and I'm more than happy with it.

Just get motorcycle ones from fleabay, about £1.50 each.

Yes the slave and master cylinders are the same as all of the E30 range.

Order 2 litres of SAF-XJ (75w-140) from Opie, you'll have it within a couple of days.

I would swap the oils as soon as you can to avoid contaminating the friction plates any more then you have to.

No trick to it really.

Make sure the inside of the hole on the fuel rail is clean and smooth. Use a new O ring from the dealer. Apply a little grease to the O ring and push into place.

Nothing more complicated than that in my experience.

Mine knocked like you say when the beam bushes had collapsed. So it sounds like it.

But get a friendly MOT mechanic to check for play with a pry bar. He will be able to confirm for sure.

Disconnected sensors will bring the light on. You need to short the the wires going to the sensors to eliminate them. Its easier to just buy a set of sensors (one at front and one at the rear). They only cost about a fiver each, That way you will have eliminated that as a problem or fixed your probl...

Briliant video, thanks for sharing

Those look like front pads to me.

E30_Maniac wrote:the heaters inside the car

People know its the heaters in the car.

What people are asking is:

- are the interior heater fans working?

- is there any hot air coming into the cabin?

It's very common for low life to steal the centre caps. It used to happen all the time when the E30s were a modern car.

Fortunately they can be replaced for about £80 a set.

IMO it's worth about £10k and that's if the bodywork and mechanicals are in good condition.

Its only the interior and wheels which need tgo be M3 specific and can easilly be sourced for £1k, the rest is standard E30 parts and as such will be pennies off fleabay.

Might be worth taking them off and checking all is clean in there and there are no cracks etc, just for peace of mind.

M42 wont fit. The leads are S14 specific.

ECP sell genuine Beru ones at a decent price too.

Dizz cap and Rotor arms are pricey too at about £100 for the pair

Welcome to M Tax

you need a 8mm socket if that helps

5.25 inch are standard fit.

Try to avoid any that stick out at the fron or the standard grills won't fit flush.

You may need some spacers up front to clear the caliper anti rattle springs, I did.

Nice wheels

Search found 131 matches

Re: E30 M3 Fuel Filler bodywork panel

Re: E30 M3 Throttle Housing Assembly Throttle screws

Re: Alternator not charging. No battery warning light.

Re: M3 ECU & chip

Re: Heater and Fuel/temp Guage relationship

Re: Blue Temp Sensor Question

Re: Blue Temp Sensor Question

Re: Manual gearbox flush question.

Re: Brake pedal travel

Re: Strut Brace advice!

Re: E30 M3 battery

Re: E30 M3 Tow Eye cover caps same as normal?

Re: E30 M3 Tow Eye cover caps same as normal?

Re:

Re: E30 M3 Sport Evolution Convertible

Re: Diff rebuild

Re:

Re: e30 M3 mirrors - same as other e30s?

Re: steering wheel retrims

Re: Caliper Bleed Nipple Size?

Re: E30 M3 sticky clutch pedal

Re: Fuel Pressure Regulator 'O' ring

Re: rear subframe bushings

Re: Pad wear sensor

Re: E30 M3's in Action

Re: E30 M3 front brake pads similar to other E30 rear pads?

Re: heaters not working on m3

Re: Stolen centres alloys

Re:

Re:

Re:

Re: Temperature gauge brass nuts.

Re: speakers

Re: e30 m3 style 5's first fitment.