Steering - Revision history

Grrrmachine at 13:27, 27 April 2014

2014-04-27T13:27:40Z

Grrrmachine at 13:01, 27 April 2014

2014-04-27T13:01:30Z

Grrrmachine at 18:37, 7 July 2013

2013-07-07T18:37:33Z

Grrrmachine at 19:10, 17 April 2013

2013-04-17T19:10:39Z

Grrrmachine at 19:07, 17 April 2013

2013-04-17T19:07:52Z

Grrrmachine at 11:11, 31 March 2013

2013-03-31T11:11:38Z

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Kedge at 13:34, 29 March 2013

2013-03-29T13:34:34Z

Kedge at 12:53, 29 March 2013

2013-03-29T12:53:48Z

Kedge at 04:52, 27 March 2013

2013-03-27T04:52:07Z

Grrrmachine at 19:34, 7 March 2013

2013-03-07T19:34:00Z

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 While the steering of an [[E30]] is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade. Here is a guide for [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a faster rack]].
-The [[Z3]], [[E36]] & [[E46]] racks all bolt straight into position on the subframe like the standard rack so it's just a case of following the [[Steering#Changing the Steering Rack|process above]]. However they do need 8mm of spacers as they are thinner than a [[E30]] rack. You can keep their original track rods as well if you desire but certainly with the [[Z3]] and [[E36]] versions they can cause clearance issues if you are running larger than standard brakes. For the spacers you can have custom ones made up, but many have simply used thick washers; three head bolt washers are perfect.
+The [[Z3]], [[E36]] & [[E46]] racks all bolt straight into position on the subframe like the standard rack so it's just a case of following the [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|conversion guide]]. However they do need 14mm of spacers as they are thinner than a [[E30]] rack. You can have custom ones made up, but many have simply used thick washers; three head bolt washers are perfect. You can also use [[Z3]] and [[E36]] track rods as well if you desire but they can cause clearance issues if you are running larger than standard brakes.
 Be aware that the rest of the install isn't quite so simple due to the different angles of the pinion gear and positioning on the pinion of the PAS feed and return pipes. You can bend your existing pipes with some trial and error, and hope that you don't kink or split them, but we recommend buying custom pipes. Either message E30Zone user [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] for these as well as his custom steering linkages, or have a local hose specialist make you some.

@@ Line 71: / Line 71: @@
 The next thing to remove is the linkage that attaches the steering rack to the column. This is secured with a 13mm nut and bolt at either end which need removing. The UJ should then slide down the splines towards the rack off the column and can then be pulled off the rack. These are often seized but some penetrating fluid and a couple of knocks with a small hammer should have it moving; there is no need to attack it with a chisel or anything similarly brutal.
-Now we need to disconnect the pipework. If you're just swapping between E30 racks it'll be easiest to just undo the banjo bolts (19 & 22mm) on the rack itself and drain he fluid there. Fitting a non E30 rack will require custom pipes which will be explained **HERE**.
+Now we need to disconnect the pipework. If you're just swapping between E30 racks it'll be easiest to just undo the banjo bolts (19 & 22mm) on the rack itself and drain the fluid there. Fitting a non E30 rack will require custom pipes which will be explained **HERE**.
 Now all that is left is removing the rack from its mounting on the crossmember. The rack is held to the crossmember by two 15mm nuts and bolts; simply undo and remove these. Then to remove the rack the bottom tabs need to be bent out of the way which then allows the room to simply drop the steering rack off the car.
 Refitting is as a well-known maintenance manual says, the reversal of removal.
 =Upgrades=
 ==Faster Rack==
+''Main article: [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|Fitting a faster rack]]''
-While the steering of an [[E30]] is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade. Here is a guide for [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]].
+[[Image:Utf-8BSU1BRzAwNTYuanBn.jpg|thumb|right|upright=1.0|E30 (front) & E36 racks.]]
 [[Image:E36 steering pipes and linkage.jpg|thumb|right|upright=1.0|E36 steering rack fitted to an E30 using a [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] steering linkage and PAS pipes.]]
 The [[Z3]], [[E36]] & [[E46]] racks all bolt straight into position on the subframe like the standard rack so it's just a case of following the [[Steering#Changing the Steering Rack|process above]]. However they do need 8mm of spacers as they are thinner than a [[E30]] rack. You can keep their original track rods as well if you desire but certainly with the [[Z3]] and [[E36]] versions they can cause clearance issues if you are running larger than standard brakes. For the spacers you can have custom ones made up, but many have simply used thick washers; three head bolt washers are perfect.
@@ Line 92: / Line 90: @@
 The other issue can be fouling of the steering linkage on the exhaust downpipes/manifold on 6 cylinder engines such as the [[M20]], again due to the angle of the pinion gear. This is dependent on the engine and manifold you are using. You can either make a custom steering linkage like the one in [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|this guide]] or one can be purchased from [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] which involves the use of [[E34]] steering UJs, one of which has to be stripped down and mated to an E30 UJ.
 [[Category: Technical]]
 [[Category: Steering]]

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 ==PAS Pump==
-The PAS pump is located on the front left hand side of the engine. It take the PAS fluid down from the reservoir and then pumps it under pressure to the rack when the steering wheel is moved. This process makes the weight of the steering much lighter for the driver. The PAS pump is driven by an auxiliary belt, so as the belt wears or become stretched the effectiveness of the pump decreases. There is on adjuster bar which allows you to take any slack out of the belt. Learn more about [[Changing_belts|fitting belts]].
+The PAS pump is located on the front left hand side of the engine. It take the PAS fluid down from the reservoir and then pumps it under pressure to the rack when the steering wheel is moved. This process makes the weight of the steering much lighter for the driver. The PAS pump is driven by an auxiliary belt, so as the belt wears or become stretched the effectiveness of the pump decreases. There is on adjuster bar which allows you to take any slack out of the belt. Learn more about [[Changing_Belts|fitting belts]].
 ==Steering Column==

@@ Line 34: / Line 34: @@
 This linkage is held together with four solid rivets, which must be replaced with BMW originals if removed. A 'normal' bolt will put a compression load on the guibo, whereas the shoulders of BMW's special bolts bear against one side of the drive flanges, and the locknuts tighten up against the other sides, thus forming rigidly mounted pins for the guibo. This way, there are no loads on the system in any direction that wasn't designed to be loaded.
 ==Steering Wheel==
@@ Line 98: / Line 100: @@
 [[Image:DSC00446.JPG|thumb|center|upright=2.0|Z3 steering rack mounted in the NON-PAS rack position on a 318iS]]
-==Steering Linkage==
+==Other Linkages==
 In order to fit a [[Steering#Faster_Rack|faster rack]] from one of the later 3 Series cars you'll need to modify the existing steering linkage, specifically the universal joint. This is mostly for clearance issues, especially if you're also running an aftermarket [[Exhaust#Manifolds|exhaust manifold]], which are known to interfere in hard-driving situations. You don't want your linkage latching onto the manifold and locking up your steering, so it's essential to fit a linkage that offers as much clearance as possible.

@@ Line 22: / Line 22: @@
 ==Steering Column==
-This connects the steering wheel to the steering rack, via a steering linkage made up of a couple of universal joints. This is simply a tube with the column going through the middle of it. Each end of the column is splined for the steering wheel to grip it at the top and the linkage to grip at the bottom. The column is held in place at either end but a bearing, a bunch of washers and clips.
+This connects the steering wheel to the steering rack, via a steering linkage made up of a couple of universal joints. This is simply a tube with the column going through the middle of it. Each end of the column is splined for the steering wheel to grip it at the top and the linkage to grip at the bottom. The column is held in place at either end by a bearing, a bunch of washers and clips.
 The steering column also houses a number of [[Interior#Controls|control stalks]], operating the [[Lights#Indicators|indicators]] and [[Wipers|wipers]] and optionally, the [[On-board_Computer|OBC]] and [[Cruise_Control|cruise control]].
@@ Line 31: / Line 31: @@
 ==Steering Linkage==
-This connects the steering column to the steering rack. This is made up of two universal joints, and is joined together by a rubber coupler known as a guibo. The universal joints are required due to the steering column being at a different angle to the steering racks pinion gear, while the rubber guibo prevents undue noise transmitting up the column and into the car.
+This connects the steering column to the steering rack. This is made up of two universal joints, and is joined together by a rubber coupler known as a guibo. The universal joints are required due to the steering column being at a different angle to the steering rack's pinion gear, while the rubber guibo prevents undue noise transmitting up the column and into the car.
 This linkage is held together with four solid rivets, which must be replaced with BMW originals if removed. A 'normal' bolt will put a compression load on the guibo, whereas the shoulders of BMW's special bolts bear against one side of the drive flanges, and the locknuts tighten up against the other sides, thus forming rigidly mounted pins for the guibo. This way, there are no loads on the system in any direction that wasn't designed to be loaded.
@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 ==Fluid Leaks==
-Fluid leaks are usually from underneath the fluid reservoir located on the left had side suspension turret. The pipes crimped in place can sometimes deteriorate. To cure the issue you can either source replacement pipes or trim the end of the old pipes and recrimp using a good quality worm-drive hose clip.
+Fluid leaks are usually from underneath the fluid reservoir located on the left hand side suspension turret. The pipes crimped in place can sometimes deteriorate. To cure the issue you can either source replacement pipes or trim the end of the old pipes and recrimp using a good quality worm-drive hose clip.
 It is very rare for leaks to occur elsewhere in the pipe system; however, if removing any of the high pressure hoses on the pump or rack it is important to use new crush/sealing washers to prevent future leaks. Most E30's use 4x 16mm and 4x 14mm washers.
@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 So you've decided to tackle to job of swapping your steering rack. This could be because the old one is faulty or, as is becoming more popular, you want to fit a rack from another BMW with a quicker ratio. This guide is applicable for both scenarios as all racks fit in the same position.
-You'll need to get the front of the car jacked up and the front wheels removed. Before starting work get the rear wheels choked and the car set on axle stands for safety as you'll be working underneath the car. Use the appropriate [[Jacking_Points|jacking points]].
+You'll need to get the front of the car jacked up and the front wheels removed. Before starting work get the rear wheels chocked and the car set on axle stands for safety as you'll be working underneath the car. Use the appropriate [[Jacking_Points|jacking points]].
 First thing to do is separate the tie rod ends from the suspension struts. For better access, turn the steering to each side. A 17mm thread lock nut holds the tie rod end to the strut so get this undone and then drop the tie rod from the strut. These two simple tasks can often be fraught with hassle due to parts being seized. If the balljoint spins while undoing the nut, place your jack under the ball joint and take the weight of the strut on the jack and try again to undo the nut. Failing that, another trick is to use heat such as a blowtorch, which can also work for removing the tie rod from the strut. A hammer and block of wood is also a commonly used way of separating the parts.
@@ Line 80: / Line 80: @@
 ==Faster Rack==
-While the steering of an [[E30]] is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade. Here is a guide for[[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]].
+While the steering of an [[E30]] is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade. Here is a guide for [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]].
 [[Image:E36 rack spacers.jpg|thumb|right|upright=1.0|E36 steering rack mounted on the PAS subframe holes with head bolt washers used as spacers.]]
@@ Line 97: / Line 97: @@
 [[Image:318is undertray mod.jpg|thumb|center|upright=2.0|318iS plastic under-tray modified for Z3 rack fitment.]]
 [[Image:DSC00446.JPG|thumb|center|upright=2.0|Z3 steering rack mounted in the NON-PAS rack position on a 318iS]]
 [[Category: Technical]]
 [[Category: Steering]]

@@ Line 47: / Line 47: @@
 [[Image:Solid steering guibo.jpg|thumb|right|upright=1.0|CNC'd aluminum steering guibo fitted to a 318iS with a Z3 rack.]]
 Obviously with age and regular use the the rack mechanism can wear and introduce play to the steering, this can be seen by there being a delay from turning the steering wheel to the front wheels steering. However a more common issue for this feeling is the rubber guibo in the steering linkage having broken up, meaning there is play in the linkage. You can either replace the rubber guibo with an OEM part or make a custom solid spacer.
 =Maintenance=

@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 ==Vague Steering==
 Obviously with age and regular use the the rack mechanism can wear and introduce play to the steering, this can be seen by there being a delay from turning the steering wheel to the front wheels steering. However a more common issue for this feeling is the rubber guibo in the steering linkage having broken up, meaning there is play in the linkage. You can either replace the rubber guibo with an OEM part or make a custom solid spacer.
@@ Line 72: / Line 73: @@
 ==Faster Rack==
-While the steering of an E30 is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade, here is a guide for[[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]].
+While the steering of an [[E30]] is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade, here is a guide for[[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]].
-The Z3, E36 & E46 racks all bolt straight into position on the subframe with no modifications but the do need 8mm of spacers as they are thinner than a E30 rack, you can keep their original track rods as well if you desire but certainly with the Z3 and E36 versions they can cause clearance issues if you are running larger than standard brakes. However the rest of the install isn't quite so simple due to the different angles of the pinion gear and positioning on the pinion of the PAS feed and return pipes. You can either bend your existing pipes with some trial, error and hope in that you don't kink or split them or you can buy custom pipes (Message E30Zone user [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] for these & custom steering linkages). The other issue can be fouling of the steering linkage on the exhaust downpipes/manifold again due to the angle of the pinion gear, this is dependant on the engine and manifold you are using, you can either make a custom steering linkage like the one [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|in this guide]] or one can be purchased from [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] which involves the use of E34 steering UJs, one of which has to be stripped down and mated to an E30 UJ.
+[[Image:E36 rack spacers.jpg|thumb|right|upright=1.0|E36 steering rack mounted on the PAS subframe holes with head bolt washers used as spacers.]]
-[http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=45398&highlight= This thread] is goes through how to fit a Z3 rack to a 318iS.
+The [[Z3]], [[E36]] & [[E46]] racks all bolt straight into position on the subframe like the standard rack so it's just a case of following the [[Steering#Changing the Steering Rack|process above]]. However they do need 8mm of spacers as they are thinner than a [[E30]] rack, you can keep their original track rods as well if you desire but certainly with the [[Z3]] and [[E36]] versions they can cause clearance issues if you are running larger than standard brakes. For the spacers you can either have customer ones made up but many have simply used thick washers, 3 head bolt washers are perfect.
 [[Image:Utf-8BSU1BRzAwNTYuanBn.jpg‎ |thumb|center|upright=2.0|The difference between an E30 (front) & E36 rack.]]
 [[Category: Technical]]
 [[Category: Steering]]

@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 ==Faster Rack==
-While the steering of an E30 is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW Z3, E36 (non M) or E46 is a common and simple upgrade, but for those looking for bigger increases, [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]] can bring dramatic improvements.
+While the steering of an E30 is a charm of feedback-response, neither too heavy or too light, many of the more spirited drivers find the standard rack too long, in the sense that it takes too many turns from one full lock to the other. Fitting a faster rack from a BMW [[Z3]], [[E36]] (non M) or [[E46]] is a common and simple upgrade, but for those looking for bigger increases, [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|fitting a rack from an E36 M3]] can bring dramatic improvements.
 The Z3, E36 & E46 racks all bolt straight into position on the subframe with no modifications but the do need 8mm of spacers as they are thinner than a E30 rack, you can keep their original track rods as well if you desire but certainly with the Z3 and E36 versions they can cause clearance issues if you are running larger than standard brakes. However the rest of the install isn't quite so simple due to the different angles of the pinion gear and positioning on the pinion of the PAS feed and return pipes. You can either bend your existing pipes with some trial, error and hope in that you don't kink or split them or you can buy custom pipes (Message E30Zone user [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] for these & custom steering linkages). The other issue can be fouling of the steering linkage on the exhaust downpipes/manifold again due to the angle of the pinion gear, this is dependant on the engine and manifold you are using, you can either make a custom steering linkage like the one [[Steering_Rack_Conversions|in this guide]] or one can be purchased from [http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=profile&mode=viewprofile&u=7093 DanThe] which involves the use of E34 steering UJs, one of which has to be stripped down and mated to an E30 UJ.