Brakes - Revision history

Grrrmachine at 17:27, 23 June 2013

2013-06-23T17:27:34Z

Grrrmachine at 11:39, 15 February 2013

2013-02-15T11:39:17Z

Grrrmachine at 13:28, 29 September 2012

2012-09-29T13:28:26Z

Grrrmachine at 07:12, 11 January 2012

2012-01-11T07:12:25Z

Grrrmachine at 21:09, 18 December 2011

2011-12-18T21:09:41Z

Grrrmachine at 18:01, 19 November 2011

2011-11-19T18:01:02Z

Grrrmachine at 17:52, 19 November 2011

2011-11-19T17:52:00Z

Grrrmachine at 21:10, 15 November 2011

2011-11-15T21:10:57Z

Grrrmachine at 08:28, 29 October 2011

2011-10-29T08:28:45Z

Grrrmachine at 07:41, 28 October 2011

2011-10-28T07:41:38Z

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 ==Handbrake==
 [[Image:28052007259.jpg|thumb|right|Rear disc handbrake setup]]
 The handbrake is a cable-operated mechanism separate from the hydraulic brake setup. On all cars, the handbrake controls [[Brakes#Shoes|shoes]] on the rear wheel, regardless of whether the car has [[Brakes#Discs|discs]] or [[Brakes#Drums|drums]].
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 ==Adjusting Handbrake==
 Although the handbrake is cable operated, adjustment is made at the wheel. Any adjustment at the lever is considered a bodge, and will result in uneven shoe wear and shortened brake life.
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 Cars fitted with rear drums have self-adjusting handbrakes. If your rear drum handbrake isn't working, remove the [[Wheels|wheel]] and [[Brakes#Drums|drum]] and inspect the mechanism. Lubrication of the mechanism is often all that is needed.
-For rear disc brakes, the handbrake is adjusted by rotating a small cog behind the disc, which is only accessible through a wheel stud hole. Chock the front wheels, lift the car and take the handbrake off. Then remove the handbrake gaitor and slacken the cable by undoing the nuts on the threaded rod.
+For rear disc brakes, the handbrake is adjusted by rotating a small cog behind the disc, which is only accessible through a wheel stud hole. Learn more about [[Handbrake#Adjustment|adjusting the handbrake]].
 ==Rebuilding Calipers==

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 It is possible to fit the wider calipers and vented discs to all E30s. Parts sourced from the more powerful E30s will bolt straight on. If you are interested in much more powerful braking systems, learn more about [[Brake_Upgrades|upgrading the brakes]].
-The '''REAR''' calipers, as fitted to all [[M20]]-engined cars, as well as all [[Touring]]s and [[Cabriolet]]s, are fully interchangeable across all vehicles. If your car has [[Brakes#Drums|drums]] at the back, it is possible to convert to discs using bolt-on components. Learn more about [[Rear_Disk_Brake_conversion|converting to rear discs]].
+The '''REAR''' calipers, as fitted to all [[M20]]-engined cars, as well as all [[Touring]]s and [[Cabriolet]]s, are fully interchangeable across all vehicles although Touring calipers have bigger pistons. If your car has [[Brakes#Drums|drums]] at the back, it is possible to convert to discs using bolt-on components. Learn more about [[Rear_Disk_Brake_conversion|converting to rear discs]].
 To rebuild your rear calipers, you will need two rebuild kits ('''34211153194''') which contain a piston seal, dust seal and a circlip.

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 Only one pad of the four at the front (and the same at the back if you have rear discs) is fitted with a wear sensor. Pads don't wear completeley evenly, so to be on the safe side, the light usually comes on when there are several thousand miles of wear left in the pads.
-However, you should have a look at the pads to check that none are nearly down to the metal. There is also [[Brake_Pad_Sensor_Light|a well-known fault]] in the [[Instruments#Brake_Lights|instrument cluster]] that puts the pad wear light on intermittently.
+However, you should have a look at the pads to check that none are nearly down to the metal. There is also [[Instruments#Brake_Pad_Light_Flickering|a well-known fault]] in the [[Instruments#Brake_Lights|instrument cluster]] that puts the pad wear light on intermittently.
 ==Drums==

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 The stock braking system fitted to the [[325i]] and all [[Touring]]s is a perfectly capable braking system for the E30, no matter how aggressively you drive. However, if you're planning to race your E30, or you've [[Engines#Upgrades|changed your engine]] to something more powerful, it's worth looking at your options.
-Remember, bigger doesn't always mean better; massive discs with 4- or 6-pot calipers will add a massive amount of weight to your vehicle, especially its [[Suspension|suspension]], and you may have difficulty finding [[Wheels|wheels]] that fit. It's often enough just to fit racing-spec pads and discs, and keep your system in top performance with regular [[Brakes#Servicing|servicing]].
+There are bolt on kits available which range from 280mm discs with 4 pots to fit under standard 15inch BBS cross spoke wheels to larger kits with 310mm discs. It is possible to retrofit 4 pot calipers from other cars with the use of custom brackets etc. For many track applications simple performance compound pads and grooved disc upgrades will suffice. It is also worth fitting braided brake lines as these hold pressure better when the pedal is pressed hard and keep your system in top performance with regular regular [[Brakes#Servicing|servicing]].
 Learn more about [[Brake_Upgrades|upgrading your brakes]].

←Older revision		Revision as of 21:09, 18 December 2011
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	For track and race preparation, ABS can be easily removed with very little work. The Master Cylinder does not need to be replaced, but brake lines need to be attached to the rear ports on the cylinder to feed the appropriate wheels.		For track and race preparation, ABS can be easily removed with very little work. The Master Cylinder does not need to be replaced, but brake lines need to be attached to the rear ports on the cylinder to feed the appropriate wheels.
		+
		+	If you're having issues, learn more about [[ABS_Problems\|ABS Problems]].

	=Servicing=		=Servicing=

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 The handbrake is a cable-operated mechanism separate from the hydraulic brake setup. On all cars, the handbrake controls [[Brakes#Shoes|shoes]] on the rear wheel, regardless of whether the car has [[Brakes#Discs|discs]] or [[Brakes#Drums|drums]].
-The handbrake lever is bolted to the [[Transmission|transmission]] tunnel inside the car, and is covered with a gaiter. If you remove this gaitor, you will see that the arm sits on two small metal contacts which power the [[Instruments|handbrake light]], which should light when the handbrake is lifted.
+The handbrake lever is bolted to the [[Drivetrain|transmission]] tunnel inside the car, and is covered with a gaiter. If you remove this gaitor, you will see that the arm sits on two small metal contacts which power the [[Instruments|handbrake light]], which should light when the handbrake is lifted.
 In the middle of the lever are two threaded rods with nuts. These rods attach to two cables that run from the handbrake lever to each rear wheel. These cables run through protective sleeves to the rear wheels, where they will pull on the handbrake mechanism; a simple mechanical arm that pulls the [[Brakes#Shoes|shoes]] outwards to rub against the inside edge of the [[Brakes#Discs|disc]] or [[Brakes#Drums|drum]]. These cables are specific to disc and drum brakes, and if they need to be replaced, they are a massive headache due to their construction. Brute force and a blowtorch is often the only way to get old cables off the car.

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 The brake pedal forms part of the pedal box, and it may surprise you to know that it is how the brakes are activated by the driver. It is connected to the [[Brakes#Master_Cylinder|master cylinder]] through a pull rod, which can be adjusted to control pedal height. There's a small rubber buffer on the lowest part of the bracket that holds the [[Brakes#Brake_Light_Switch|brake light switch]], and the rod should be shortened until the arm of the pedal all but touches this buffer.
-To adjust the brake pedal, slacken off the lock nuts and turn the pull rod using a 7mm open-ended spanner on the flats near the [[Clutch#Clutch_Pedal|clutch pedal]] to adjust, until the brake pedal only has a small bit of upwards free movement to its stop. One end of this rod has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.
+To adjust the brake pedal, slacken off the lock nuts and turn the pull rod using a 7mm open-ended spanner on the flats near the [[Drivetrain#Clutch|clutch]] pedal to adjust, until the brake pedal only has a small bit of upwards free movement to its stop. One end of this rod has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.
 Be careful though. If you over-tighten things, so that the pedal is touching the buffer and moving the [[Brakes#Master_Cylinder|master cylinder]] push rod, the brakes are likely to lock on.

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 ''Main article: [[Brake_Fluid|Brake Fluid]]''
-The fluid that pulses through your braking system is the most crucial component. Just like oil for the engine, fluid needs to be [[Replacing_Fluid|changed at regular intervals]] to keep the brakes working as they should. If you don't, moisture creeps into the system, which can cause pressure problems as well as internal corrosion.
+The fluid that pulses through your braking system is the most crucial component. Just like oil for the engine, fluid needs to be [[Brakes#Replacing_Fluid|changed at regular intervals]] to keep the brakes working as they should. If you don't, moisture creeps into the system, which can cause pressure problems as well as internal corrosion.
 DOT 4 braking fluid should be used, although DOT 5.1 non-silicon is an acceptable alternative. It is essential to use non-silicon fluids as it can cause failure of the rubber seals in the [[Brakes#Calipers|calipers]]. Learn more about .

←Older revision		Revision as of 08:28, 29 October 2011
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	With drum brakes, the handbrake is self-adjusting, and any handbrake issues are usually cable-related or rusty mechanisms. With rear discs, the bottom of the shoes are pushed by the handbrake and the top are pushed by a static adjuster. If you only adjust the handbrake at the lever then you don't get full shoe contact and you'll get odd wear and a reduced efficiency handbrake. Learn more about [[Brakes#Adjusting_Handbrake\|adjusting the handbrake]].		With drum brakes, the handbrake is self-adjusting, and any handbrake issues are usually cable-related or rusty mechanisms. With rear discs, the bottom of the shoes are pushed by the handbrake and the top are pushed by a static adjuster. If you only adjust the handbrake at the lever then you don't get full shoe contact and you'll get odd wear and a reduced efficiency handbrake. Learn more about [[Brakes#Adjusting_Handbrake\|adjusting the handbrake]].
		+
		+	[[Z3]] handbrake shoes from a 6-cylinder model fit rear-disc E30 models. Use the Z3 shoes, pins, retaining springs, pull off springs and adjuster, but retain the E30 expander. This will result in a much firmer, more solid handbrake.

	==ABS==		==ABS==

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 ==Brake Fluid==
-The fluid that pulses through your braking system is the most crucial component. Just like oil for the engine, fluid needs to be changed at regular intervals to keep the brakes working as they should. If you don't, moisture creeps into the system, which can cause pressure problems as well as internal corrosion.
+''Main article: [[Brake_Fluid|Brake Fluid]]''
-DOT 4 braking fluid should be used, although DOT 5.1 non-silicon is an acceptable alternative. It is essential to use non-silicon fluids as it can cause failure of the rubber seals in the [[Brakes#Calipers|calipers]].
+The fluid that pulses through your braking system is the most crucial component. Just like oil for the engine, fluid needs to be [[Replacing_Fluid|changed at regular intervals]] to keep the brakes working as they should. If you don't, moisture creeps into the system, which can cause pressure problems as well as internal corrosion.
 ==Brake Lines==
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 ''Main article: [[ABS]]''
-For ABS vehicles, the rear ports of the Master Cylinder are blanked off.
+The Anti-Lock Braking System fitted to some E30s is a relatively simple system designed to, well, stop the wheels from locking up. To do this, the pressure to the brakes is pulsed rather then constantly applied, applying a hard then soft force to allow the wheel to still rotate. While this may seem daft in straight-line braking, for cornering it allows the front wheels to still turn the car away from its current direction, so that you don't slide straight into a tree in a cloud of smoke.
 =Servicing=
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 ==Bleeding==
 ==Replacing Pads and Discs==
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 ==Replacing Fluid==
 ==Replacing Rear Shoes==
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 ==Adjusting Handbrake==
-You adjust the handbrake through a wheel stud hole with a small flathead screwdriver. Remove the wheel, and rotate the disc until a hole is at the 12 o'clock position and look in with a torch. Adjust the top until the brake locks up, and then back it off a bit.
+Although the handbrake is cable operated, adjustment is made at the wheel. Any adjustment at the lever is considered a bodge, and will result in uneven shoe wear and shortened brake life.
-Then put the wheel back on, and adjust the tension at the handbrake lever so that the wheel is locked at ~5 clicks of the lever. ...or just whetever feels right. Each side is adjusted independently.
+Now remove one wheel, and rotate the disc until a hole is at the 12 o'clock position and look in with a torch. When you see the cog, push it round with a small flathead screwdriver. Adjust the top until the brake locks up, and then back it off a bit. Repeat on the other side.
 ==Rebuilding Calipers==
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 ==Stuck Brakes==
 =Upgrades=