View source for Blue Temp Sensor

The Blue Temp Sensor is the temperature sensor on all [[Fuel|fuel-injected]] engines. It provides coolant data to the [[ECU]].

If you are looking for a solution to your Temperature Gauge problems, learn more about the [[Instruments#Temp_Gauge|Brown Plug]]

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=Operation=

A cold engine needs more fuel pumped in than a warm one. Putting too little fuel into a cold engine will prevent the engine from starting, while putting too much fuel into a warm engine will lead to rich running, high carbon deposits and possibly pre-detonation of the fuel (pinking). To control the [[Fuel|fuelling]], the [[ECU]] needs to know how warm the temperature is, and it gets that information from the Blue Temp Sensor.

The Blue Temp Sensor is a simple thermistor - as the temperature around it changes, it changes its electrical resistance. In this way, it forms part of a simple circuit to the ECU, informing it of the temperature of the engine so that the ECU can adjust fuelling accordingly. 

Faults with the Blue Plug can prevent the car from starting, or cause the engine to [[Fuel#Rich_Running|run too rich]].

=Location=

The location of the Blue Temp Sensor is different on each engine:

* On [[M10]] and  [[M20]] engines, it is located in the thermostat housing, at the end of the [[Intake#Intake_Manifold|intake manifold]]
* On [[M40]] engines, it is located on the cylinder head, under  the [[Intake#Intake_Manifold|intake manifold]]

=Testing=

While it's relatively simple to test the Blue Temp Sensor, it is also important to test that the information is reaching the [[ECU]]. This test needs to be done first, so that you don't disturb any wiring in the engine bay - especially the sensor plug itself.

Testing the actual Sensor is a relative simple affair, requiring a multimeter.

* Locate the ECU and remove its loom connection
* Set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms)
* Putt your multimeter electrodes onto pins 24 and 45 of the ECU (for facelift engines. For others, such as the 318iS, check the [[ECU Pinouts]])
* From cold, expect a reading in the region of 3500-4000 Ohms. Any more or less than this is not a huge issue
* Reconnect, warm up the engine, and retest
* From hot, expect a reading in the region of 330 Ohms. If your Blue Temp Sensor has not changed its resistance significantly, then it is at fault and should be replaced.

Once that's done, you can test the Blue Temp Sensor itself.

* Locate the Blue Temp Sensor and disconnect its plug.
* Repeat the test, this time testing the pins directly.
* Confirm that the readings you got at the ECU are the same or similar to what you read at the Blue Temp Sensor.

If the readings differ, then the most likely cause is corrosion of the [[C191]] plug (facelift cars only). Once that is ruled out, the fault must lie with the sensor itself.

=Replacing=

To remove the Blue Temp Sensor:

* Locate the Blue Temp Sensor and the Brown Plug on the engine.
* Disconnect the loom plug by pressing in the metal tab and pulling up gently
* Use a 19mm ring spanner or deep socket to unscrew the Brown Plug
* With this out of the way, use the same tool to remove the Blue Temp Sensor
* Replace Blue Temp Sensor and refit Brown Plug and loom connections

=Cold Start Relay=

Despite their technical knowledge, [[BMW]] had problems with cold starting on some [[M20]] engines. To cure this without a fundamental redesign, a Cold Start Relay was devised to fool the [[ECU]] into thinking that the engine was already warm.

To identify whether your car was fitted with a Cold Start Relay, look for an extra relay fitted to the outside of your fusebox.

This relay is connected so that it switches on when the starter motor engages, and connects a resistor in parallel with the temp sensor, artificially raising the level of the coolant data to the ECU.