https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Richy187 2026-04-06T09:05:28Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.31.1 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2864 2010-02-28T10:48:45Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you. You will also need to disconnect the ARB drop link from the underside of the wishbone..<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop14.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The ring should split if you have cut it enough and start to collapse on itself, it should then be relatively easy to knock it through the lollipop with a hammer<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 10. Now we need to fit the new bushes. This will be very difficult if you don't have a vice, so I recommend you find one you can borrow if you don't have one. Using a block of wood to protect the bush sandwich the bush between the lollipop and the afforementioned block of wood like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then tigthen up the vice carefully making sure the bush slides in evenly all the way round. Obviously you will have to stop before the bush is all the way in as the back face of the vice will stop the bush.<br /> <br /> 11. You will need a large diameter tube or ring like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Which is a bearing race from a land rover. It needs to be bigger than the lip of the bush but small enough to fit up against the face of the lollipop. You must then assemble in the vice like this..<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> You can then tighten the vice to finish pushing the outer bush in.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Now apply plenty of copper grease to the ridged part of the puple inner bush an press in to the centre of the lollipop so you have this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 13. Apply a liberal coating of copper grease to the wishbone where the bush is pressed on, <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> and it should now be relatively easy to push the lollipop/bush assembly back on to the rear of the wishbone. I used a block of wood and a hammer to knock it on. Make sure you knock it all the way on or it will be very difficult to do the lollipop bolts back up again.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop13.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 14. Now bolt the lollipop back into position, refit the ball joint, ARB drop link etc, and you're done!!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]<br /> [[Category: Repair]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2863 2010-02-28T10:41:45Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you. You will also need to disconnect the ARB drop link from the underside of the wishbone..<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop14.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The ring should split if you have cut it enough and start to collapse on itself, it should then be relatively easy to knock it through the lollipop with a hammer<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 10. Now we need to fit the new bushes. This will be very difficult if you don't have a vice, so I recommend you find one you can borrow if you don't have one. Using a block of wood to protect the bush sandwich the bush between the lollipop and the afforementioned block of wood like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then tigthen up the vice carefully making sure the bush slides in evenly all the way round. Obviously you will have to stop before the bush is all the way in as the back face of the vice will stop the bush.<br /> <br /> 11. You will need a large diameter tube or ring like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Which is a bearing race from a land rover. It needs to be bigger than the lip of the bush but small enough to fit up against the face of the lollipop. You must then assemble in the vice like this..<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> You can then tighten the vice to finish pushing the outer bush in.<br /> [[Category: Modifying]]<br /> <br /> 12. Now apply plenty of copper grease to the ridged part of the puple inner bush an press in to the centre of the lollipop so you have this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 13. Apply a liberal coating of copper grease to the wishbone where the bush is pressed on, <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> and it should now be relatively easy to push the lollipop/bush assembly back on to the rear of the wishbone. I used a block of wood and a hammer to knock it on. Make sure you knock it all the way on or it will be very difficult to do the lollipop bolts back up again.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop13.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 14. Now bolt the lollipop back into position, refit the ball joint, ARB drop link etc, and you're done!!!</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop14.jpg&diff=2862 2010-02-28T10:38:26Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2861 2010-02-28T10:32:15Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The ring should split if you have cut it enough and start to collapse on itself, it should then be relatively easy to knock it through the lollipop with a hammer<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 10. Now we need to fit the new bushes. This will be very difficult if you don't have a vice, so I recommend you find one you can borrow if you don't have one. Using a block of wood to protect the bush sandwich the bush between the lollipop and the afforementioned block of wood like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then tigthen up the vice carefully making sure the bush slides in evenly all the way round. Obviously you will have to stop before the bush is all the way in as the back face of the vice will stop the bush.<br /> <br /> 11. You will need a large diameter tube or ring like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Which is a bearing race from a land rover. It needs to be bigger than the lip of the bush but small enough to fit up against the face of the lollipop. You must then assemble in the vice like this..<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop11.jpg]]<br /> <br /> You can then tighten the vice to finish pushing the outer bush in.<br /> [[Category: Modifying]]<br /> <br /> 12. Now apply plenty of copper grease to the ridged part of the puple inner bush an press in to the centre of the lollipop so you have this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop12.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 13. Apply a liberal coating of copper grease to the wishbone where the bush is pressed on, and it should now be relatively easy to push the lollipop/bush assembly back on to the rear of the wishbone. I used a block of wood and a hammer to knock it on. Make sure you knock it all the way on or it will be very difficult to do the lollipop bolts back up again.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop13.jpg]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop13.jpg&diff=2860 2010-02-28T10:29:51Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop12.jpg&diff=2859 2010-02-28T10:25:10Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop11.jpg&diff=2858 2010-02-28T10:16:22Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2857 2010-02-28T10:12:36Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The ring should split if you have cut it enough and start to collapse on itself, it should then be relatively easy to knock it through the lollipop with a hammer<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 10. Now we need to fit the new bushes. This will be very difficult if you don't have a vice, so I recommend you find one you can borrow if you don't have one. Using a block of wood to protect the bush sandwich the bush between the lollipop and the afforementioned block of wood like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then tigthen up the vice carefully making sure the bush slides in evenly all the way round. Obviously you will have to sop before the bush is all the way in as the back face of the vice will stop the bush.<br /> <br /> 11. You will need a large diameter tube or ring like this...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop10.jpg&diff=2856 2010-02-28T10:12:26Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop9.jpg&diff=2855 2010-02-28T10:07:09Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2854 2010-02-28T09:58:00Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The ring should split if you have cut it enough and start to collapse on itself, it should then be relatively easy to knock it through the lollipop with a hammer<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2853 2010-02-28T09:57:30Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop8.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The ring should split if you have cut it enough and start to collapse on itself, it should then be relatively easy to knock it through the lollipop with a hammer<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop8.jpg&diff=2852 2010-02-28T09:57:15Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2851 2010-02-28T09:25:44Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 8. Now its time to remove the remains of the old bush from the lollipop. To do this you will need to cut through the metal outer ring with a hacksaw (angle grinder won't fit in there), again dismantle your hacksaw and reassemble inside the lollipop if necessary...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop6.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cut through the bush outer ring only, don't mark the inside of the lollipop!!! Although you don't actually have to cut all the way through, just weaken it enough for the next stage to work<br /> <br /> 9. Now get a big drift and a big hammer. Mount the lollipop in a vice and where you have cut, give it a ruddy good clout...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop7.jpg&diff=2850 2010-02-28T09:24:41Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop6.jpg&diff=2849 2010-02-28T09:17:18Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2848 2010-02-28T09:12:32Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. Leave it to cool!!! then you should be able to pull it off fairly easily and find yourself left with this (minus the copper grease)...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop5.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop5.jpg&diff=2847 2010-02-28T09:11:29Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2846 2010-02-28T09:08:14Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2845 2010-02-28T09:07:32Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2844 2010-02-28T09:07:12Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2843 2010-02-28T09:05:32Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. You will really struggle to pull this off as its rubber wrapped around a metal ring with rubber inside press fitted over the wishbone. So to make it easier to pull off you need to cut it. I chose an angle grinder (my weapon of choice) you may be able to use a hacksaw but angle grinders are so much quicker... Any way you only need to cut through the metal ring, and be very careful not to mark the wishbone itself<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop4.jpg&diff=2842 2010-02-28T09:04:12Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2841 2010-02-28T08:57:37Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> 2. Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> 3. Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> 4. The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the one remaining ball joint that holds it on to the sub-frame. Spin the wishbone roundso the lollipop end is sticking out from under the car. It is much easier to work on it here.<br /> <br /> 5. Now cut through the rubber spokes inside the old bush. I found a hacksaw best for this, but I had to dismantle it and then re-assemble it looped inside the lollipop. Its tough going but use plenty of lube and it will help you cut through.<br /> <br /> You should then be left with this on the end of the wishbone...<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop3.JPG&diff=2840 2010-02-28T08:55:37Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2839 2010-02-28T08:45:41Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> This is the standard bush that it replaced.<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> Now you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the lollipop to the underside of the car<br /> <br /> The wishbone should now be free to rotate on the <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop2.jpg&diff=2838 2010-02-28T08:44:35Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2837 2010-02-28T08:35:02Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> Then remove the ball joint that attaches the wishbone to the back of the hub, its best to use a ball joint splitter for this, I used the scissor type and found it relatively easy, but how you do it is up to you.<br /> <br /> The wishbone should now be free to rotate <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2836 2010-02-28T08:31:27Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[image:Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> <br /> First you will need to jack the front of the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Lollipop_Bushes&diff=2835 2010-02-28T08:28:10Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Having changed my wishbone lollipop bushes for polyurethane ones, I thought I would post up my method as a guide to others. This is the method I used, it worked for me, but I accept no responsibility for any loss damage or harm that may come to anyone as a result of attempting what you see here. <br /> <br /> These are the bushes I chose...<br /> <br /> [[Lollipop1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> They are the standard concentric bushes, many people recommend using eccentric M3 bushes, but I chose standard.<br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:Lollipop1.jpg&diff=2834 2010-02-28T08:23:55Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Heating_system_troubleshoot&diff=2812 2010-02-13T08:53:54Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Media:E30_heating.PDF‎]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Repair]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Instrument_Cluster_Replacement&diff=2810 2010-02-13T08:46:59Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>(''Originally posted on the E30 Zone by'' [[320imoredoor]])<br /> <br /> Tools needed:<br /> *Crosshead screwdriver <br /> *Small flat blade screw driver. <br /> *Patience<br /> <br /> <br /> Time taken: About half an hour<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. First of all, disconnect battery<br /> <br /> 2. Remove the under dash panel:<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:1instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Its held on with 3 clips. Two closest to the door, the other on the other side<br /> <br /> [[Image:2instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:3instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. Now let go the x2 screws facing towards the window, just in front of indicator symbol<br /> <br /> [[Image:4instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Under the dash, there are two knurled nuts. One in front of the ecu, and one on the other side. Both should be finger tight. Push inwards on the front of the panel to help loosen them.<br /> <br /> [[Image:5instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Note that the nut on the left should be a knurled type, the same as the other one.<br /> <br /> [[Image:6instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:7instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 5. With this dash panel out (rolls out towards you)<br /> <br /> [[Image:8instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> You can see four screws looking at you. Two on the outside, two in the middle.<br /> <br /> [[Image:9instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Middle one.<br /> <br /> [[Image:10instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Right side<br /> <br /> [[Image:11instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Left side<br /> <br /> 6.After these screws are let go, the clock surround rolls out (top first)<br /> <br /> [[Image:12instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 7. There are then two top clamps holding clocks in the clocks (crosshead)<br /> <br /> [[Image:13instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> (One either side)<br /> <br /> 8. After this the clocks roll forward, then you must let go the leccy connections, which are multi plugs. One white, One blue. There is also a similar yellow socket at the bottom, in the middle, which will only have a plug in it if you have an On Board Computer in place of the analogue clock.<br /> <br /> Some models also have a green socket clipped in place below the rear of the speedometer.<br /> <br /> [[Image:14instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:15instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 9. The multi pins let go by pulling up the black tangs on top of them using a flat bladed screw driver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:16instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 10. Disconnect them and then push them back.<br /> <br /> 11. The clocks then roll out to the left.<br /> <br /> [[Image:17instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 12. Then you are left with a big gaping hole<br /> <br /> [[Image:18instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 13. Refitting is the reversal of removal, but before you do, check that the small brass nuts on the back behind the fuel gauge and temperature gauge, are tight. Remember take your time. Plastic bits break and screws go missing, so its good idea to have a magnetic tray for the screws.<br /> <br /> 14. And the finished article<br /> <br /> [[Image:19instcluster.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Some very nice and fully functioning 'klicki-o-meter' clocks<br /> <br /> Good luck!<br /> <br /> [[Category: Repair]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Badge_Replacement&diff=2809 2010-02-13T08:43:08Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Here's a simple step-by-step guide to replacing the rear BMW badge on your E30.<br /> For this job you will need:<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;<br /> !Item<br /> !Part Number<br /> !Estimated Cost<br /> |-<br /> |BMW roundel<br /> |51 14 1 872 969<br /> |£20<br /> |-<br /> |Grommet x2<br /> |51 14 1 902 279<br /> |£4<br /> |-<br /> |Flat-head screwdriver<br /> | - <br /> | - <br /> |-<br /> |Piece of cloth<br /> | - <br /> | - <br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> This is a relatively common problem with rear roundels. They bubble and break.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Badge_01.jpg|thumb|280px|center|Stage One]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Using a small flathead screwdriver, very gently pry your old badge off. Use a cloth or other cushion, so that you don't chip or break the paintwork. Work your way around the badge until it pops off.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Badge_02.jpg|thumb|280px|center|Stage Two]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Push the old gromits out of the boot lid. Ready yourself with some new ones.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Badge_03.jpg|thumb|280px|center|Grommets]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Take the opportunity to clean the recess, and push the new grommets through.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Badge_04.jpg|thumb|280px|center|Ready for new badge]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Push the new badge firmly and evenly into the grommets.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Badge_05.jpg|thumb|280px|center|New roundel]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Done!<br /> <br /> [[Image:Badge_06.jpg|thumb|280px|center|Done]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Repair]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Fitting_Tech2_front_and_rear_bumpers&diff=2808 2010-02-13T08:41:43Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Fitting Tech 2 front and rear bumpers to facelift cars'''<br /> <br /> Written by mrlee<br /> <br /> Seems to be a lot of confusion about fitting the Mtech 2 bumpers and valances to a standard facelift car. It is actually relatively easy to do and requires only some minor drilling and purchasing of clips. All face lift cars can accept the Tech 2 front and rear bumpers including 4 door, touring, coupe and cabriolets. Pre facelift cars require fairly extensive modifications to the metal valance, tow eye, front and rear bumper mounts, rear bumper/wheel arch mating location etc. There are separate sites describing this job, a PM to mrLEE30 and I will send the link. I am not a fan of the Mtech side skirts so I did not fit them, however thanks to MickeyJ here is a site to show you how they go on<br /> http://www.scchosting.com/e30/M-Technik%20II.pdf <br /> keep scroling down after the diagrams and you will find english on page 13. The tech 2 sill/door covers are specific to: a. the coupe b. the 4 door/touring and c. the cabriolets. This article does not cover any of this, only bumpers/valances. My advice is to read the whole article first before you start, as for the drilling there is a template available for this (51712239841), I didn’t have one so I explain how I did it.<br /> <br /> '''Tools and parts'''<br /> <br /> Mtech 2 front bumper, front Mtech valance, rear Mtech bumper. Try if possible to ensure the tow eye/fitting hardware covers are with it (2 on the rear, 2 on the front) and the front left and right brake air ducts are included as they are tech 2 specific items too, and if you don’t already have front fog lights you will need these to finish the look off.<br /> <br /> parts: A: upper clips for lower valance : 51712239711 (7 Nos) B: expanding rivet for lower valance : 17111712963 (8 Nos) C: side clips for lower valance : 51711033719 (2 Nos) , 51711922599 (2 Nos) , 16131176747 (2Nos) D : rear guide left &amp; right 51122239847 (1 Nos) , 51122238848 (1 Nos) , grommet 51711939303 (2 Nos) , rivet 51711936929 (2 Nos) (for better guide see: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1111&amp;mospid=47263&amp;btnr=51_0660&amp;hg=51&amp;fg=15)<br /> <br /> Screwdrivers, 8mm,10mm, 13mm socket set/spanners, T-55 Torx socket (cheers Smithy) and ratchet drive (1/2 inch or bigger), A ruler/tape measure, a punch and hammer, Drill and 4mm metal bit , 8mm metal drill bit, WD40 or similar, red oxide paint, paint for priming (grey), Black silicone. A mate. Axel stands or an inspection pit. <br /> The rear bumper<br /> <br /> The Mtech 2 rear bumper is a one piece part with bumper and valance as one. If someone has this as a two piece it is a Tech1 item. Below you can see the rear bumper/valance in the foreground, and in the background you can see the tech 2 bumper and lower valance. <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC00054A.JPG]]<br /> <br /> Start easy! Look underneath the rear bumper approximately inline with the edge of the number plate, you will see two holes, inside there are Torx bolts, remove these completely.<br /> <br /> With the help of a mate pull the rear bumper backwards, its best to pull it straight and may require a good smack with the palm of your hand near where the bumper meets the rear wheel arch. Remove and store the bumper. Keep the fittings. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 002.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Clean and lightly grease or oil the two side mountings (visible just below the fuel cap and in front of the boot air release flap on the picture above)<br /> <br /> With a mate slide the tech 2 rear bumper and valance in to position, ensure the side mountings go into their counterpart and push into place so that the holes for the Torx bolts line up. Again keep it straight and push from both sides to prevent the side clips from jamming, a bit of persuasion with your palm or a soft mallet may be required. Once in position inspect the bumper to ensure it is straight with the body work and aligned with the rear wheel arches. If not: the two side mountings can be adjusted up, down, left ,and right. Decide which side needs adjusting and in which direction, then remove the bumper and loosen the 8mm bolts that clamp the side mountings, adjust and tighten as required and refit. This may take several attempts to get just right, but worth spending time on at this stage. Once the fit is correct re-fit the Torx bolts and tighten.<br /> <br /> There are clips to be fitted to hold the rear valance to the side of the car (parts D in the list above) I did not fit mine as I didn’t want to drill the car there, so instead I used black silicone applied from the inside where the valance meets the body work, its been over a year and I have had no problems, its also easy to remove it required. If you must fit the clips then mock them up before you tighten the Torx bolts but after you have aligned the bumper, mark the hole, remove the bumper and drill, fit the grommet, and clip and re fit the bumper, tighten the Torx bolts and insert the rivet and fix. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Car 06 014.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''The Front Bumper and Valance'''<br /> <br /> The Mtech front bumper and valance are two separate pieces. The bumper mounts on the existing mountings and the valance requires some clips to be fitted to the existing metal valance. Where I mention valance in the article I mean the tech 2 fibre glass valance, if I say metal valance I mean the one on your car.<br /> <br /> Depending on which car you have you may have a slightly different lower lip in your existing metal valance. Most will have the small 1 inch wide plastic lip spoiler, some may have the iS lip. Either way remove the lip, and remove the clips which hold it on. Below you can see the plastic clips below, remove them with a screwdriver (they may break but you don’t need them!) <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 010.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Now remove the fog lights and brake cooling ducts if you have them, remove the plastic covers that close the lower central air intake. Fog lights are removed by prising off the small rubber grommet visible from the front of the light, there are two, one will adjust the angle of the beam, the other (I think the lower one) will unscrew completely and the unit will come out, don’t forget to disconnect the wires.<br /> <br /> Look underneath the front bumper and you will see the two Torx bolts that hold it in place, remove these completely, keep the bolts. <br /> <br /> With a mate remove the bumper by pulling it straight forward, as with the rear bumper try to pull evenly from each side to avoid the side mountings jamming up. Pull the bumper half off and remove the indicator supply wires from behind the indicators, remove the bumper and store. You should have something like below, you can see the side mountings and lower metal valance sticking out about 4/5cm just above my fog lights. One of the centre bumper mounts which I shall refer to later can be seen above the hole for the brake cooling ducts. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 004.jpg]]<br /> <br /> On the inside of the lower valance there are three mounting parts, and note what I call them. 1. the upper clips which fit into the recesses on the top of the valance, the recesses are visible below on the top edge of the valance above the fog light opening, 2. the lower brackets one is clearly seen at the bottom of the valance below 3. the side fixings (top left corner of the valance). <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 003 plus.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Now the tricky part….. Fit the valance in place on the car as best as possible, use a screwdriver or similar (nut and bolt ok) to align the lower brackets with the existing holes in the metal valance (see below, the picture is from underneath the car looking upwards), it certainly helps to have a pit or lift the front of the car and support on axle stands (never get under a car lifted with a jack only, be sensible people). <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 012.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Now get the valance as straight as possible and mark the centre of the recesses for the upper clips on your metal valance. Get them right as these will be your marking for drilling holes to fit the clips in the metal valance. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 013plus.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Here comes the drill!!! Remove the valance after you have marked all 7 recesses. Now take your clips and notice the measurement from the edge of the clip to the centre fixing rivet, its about 13mm… <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 018.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Using you ruler measure 13mm from the edge of the metal valance (don’t forget its curved a bit so the picture below is actually a few mm too much) mark the point, punch a guide and drill the seven holes with the 4mm metal drill bit. Recheck by mocking up the valance again to make sure all is good, then drill out the holes with the 8mm drill bit. Remember the motto: check twice, drill once!!! <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 019.jpg]]<br /> <br /> That the hard bit over. Mask the painted bits of the car, and spray the new holes with red oxide paint, and a few coats of primer, don’t worry about the colour as you will not see it once all the bits are re-fitted, you do not want the tin worm in there!! Let it dry. Now fit the clips to the metal valance and push the valance in to place as a test fitting. You may notice I only drilled the centre five holes and didn’t bother with the two clips on the side I think I could not get the clips to mate up with the valance so I left them out. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Respray 014.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The side clips…on my tech2 valance the brackets that hold these clips were broken so I could not fit them without a load of messing about, I used black silicone applied from the inside to hold this part to the metal valance. If your brackets are ok then I would recommend fitting these, the technique is the same, mock up the lower valance with the clip and fixing bolt in place, measure where the holes are required for each side, drill, paint and check its right, do not fix it at this point.<br /> <br /> Now fit the front bumper, clean and oil the side mountings, use a mate and fit the bumper as a trial first keeping it straight. Check for alignment. The front bumper has 4 adjustable mounting points, the two side mounting can be moved up, down, left and right, to get to the fixing bolts/screws you must get up underneath the front wing, it may be necessary to remove the horn on one side to get access. Adjust these as required and retighten. The front two centre bumper mounts can also be adjusted. They are held on with two 13mm bolts, which can be loosened from the front and the mounts can be adjusted as required. My suggestion would be to leave these and try to adjust from the side mountings first, if that fails then try the centre mounts. Once happy refit the bumper, plug in the indicator supply and refit the Torx bolts and tighten.<br /> <br /> Now fit the valance, There are some gaskets that must be refitted around the centre air intakes and brake duct intakes before you refit the valance, if you don’t have them don’t worry, I cannot really think what use they serve. The fitting step can be a bit tricky to get the recesses to mate up with the upper clips, I used some knifes (much to my wife’s appreciation) to open the clips and get the valance to clip in, you will know what I mean when you get to this stage, it just takes some fiddling, once the upper clips are in place, get underneath and fit the expanding rivets in to the holes and brackets and if you fitted the side fixings now fit the plastic nut. (or stick the sides of the valance in place with black silicone applied from the inside if you are like me)<br /> <br /> Now refit the fog lights and Mtech2 brake cooling ducts, and if you want to the plastic central air intake cover.<br /> <br /> That it, job done!!<br /> <br /> [[Image:Bme.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Z3_short_shifter_conversion&diff=2801 2010-02-05T22:33:51Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>== Introduction ==<br /> <br /> Fitting opening rear ¼ windows turned out to be a fairly easy job! <br /> <br /> Takes approx 1/2hour per side <br /> <br /> You will need to source 2nd hand window assemblies, make sure you get the window/body seals too, if your removing them from a wrecked car yourself see if you can also get hold of the body nuts that the closure mechanism screws to on the C pillar. (BMW part number 07.12.9.925.735 Qty 4 off) <br /> <br /> == Parts Required ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:Shifter_001.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''PLEASE NOTE: The Gear Lever is now part number - 25117527252'''<br /> <br /> The only parts that you actually need for the conversion are the ones highlighted in blue. The remainder of the parts are required if you plan to change the selector rod bush which will not be covered in this write-up as it's a good 8 hours work and much more involved than simply swapping the shifter. <br /> Here is a picture of the parts required... you can see the difference in the E30 and Z3 levers. The Z3 lever is the one on the right. The shorter throw is gained by the much greater distance between the ball joint and the selector rod joint.<br /> <br /> [[Image:shifter_002.jpg]]<br /> <br /> == Procedure ==<br /> <br /> Make a start by jacking the car up and securely supporting it on axle stands at the front. <br /> First up, get in the vehicle and remove your gear shift knob. If you have an original BMW knob, it should pull straight off with a bit of force. If you have an aftermarket knob, then check with the manufacturer for removal instructions. Now remove the gear shift gaiter, this should unclip at the base and lift off. Beneath the gaiter you will see a large round rubber grommet unclip the reverse light switch and remove the grommet, it will just pull free. You should now be able to see the floor beneath your car through the hole and it should look something like the picture below.<br /> <br /> [[Image:shiter_003.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Next you need to remove the old shifter. Get underneath the car and you will be able to see the selector rod attached to the bottom of the gear shift. The selector rod is held on by a circlip on each end. Use a screw driver to pry the old circlips off and then slide the selector rod out. Make sure you remember which way it comes out as it will only go back in one way!!!<br /> <br /> [[Image:shifter_004.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Once the selector rod has been removed, get back inside the car to remove the old shifter. Use two screw drivers against each other to force the locking ring round to release it. You will see in the metal housing that it sits into, a couple of locating recesses, rotate the locking ring until the fat tabs of the locking ring line up with the recesses and then pull the shift lever straight up. It should come free but be careful not to hit yourself in the face with it. You can see from the picture below the double screw driver method used to unlock the locking ring.<br /> <br /> [[Image:shifter_005.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Now we are halfway there. Take the new Z3 shifter and lubricate the ball joint with a dab of silicone grease. Also lubricate the new locking ring and then slide the locking ring over the bottom of the Z3 shifter and clip it into place over the ball joint. You should now be able to clip the new lever back into place and lock the plastic locking ring the opposite to how you removed it.<br /> <br /> [[Image:shifter_006.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Next the selector rod needs some careful modification. We need to place a slight bend in the selector rod so that it clears the vibration damper on the prop shaft. This is caused by the extra length of the new Z3 shift lever below the ball joint. The best way to do this is to place it in a vice. As we didn't have a vice to hand, we made good use of a hammer. Place the selector rod between two supports and give it a few sharp hits with a hammer. It should look something like this.<br /> <br /> [[Image:shifter_007.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:shifter_008.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Refit the selector rod beneath the car and replace the yellow spacer rings and circlips. Get someone to change the gears inside the car while you check underneath for clearance of the vibration damper. If the selector rod touches the vibration damper then remove it and bend slightly further.<br /> <br /> Once everything is checked and the selector rod has been replaced, you can refit the rubber grommet, gaiter and shift knob.<br /> <br /> Now take your car for a spin to test out your fantastic new short-shift!<br /> <br /> <br /> Written by E30Adam and copyright to www.e30zone.co.uk<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Debadging&diff=2800 2010-02-05T22:30:06Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>To remove the badges from an E30 is a 15 minute job and cleans up the back end of the car in my opinion.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 037.jpg]]<br /> <br /> What you need is a piece of string or fishing wire, some rubbing compound, some polishing compound, some tar remover, some polish, rags and a kettle.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 041.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Boil the kettle and pour the hot water slowly over the badge, this softens the adhesive.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 038.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then using the string in a sawing motion get behind the badge and saw away the adhesive.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 039.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 047.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Now you will be left with the partial remains of the adhesive.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 048.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Now using the tar remover and a damp rag begin rubbing away the adhesive, this is the hardest part of the job and I even resorted to picking away with my finger nails, but unless you are very very careful do not try to shortcut by using a stanley knife blade, keep working at it with the tar remover frequently adding more of the product and rubbing away. After 10-15 mins you should get rid of most of the adhesive.<br /> <br /> 5 mins<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 040.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 10 mins<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 043.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then once you reach this stage apply a little rubbing compound with a damp cloth and rub away the last remains of the adhesive. Then using the polishing compound and a damp cloth polish away the different colour paint under the badge so it matches the surrounding paint - this is becasue the area under the badge will not have weathered as much as the exposed paint work but a few minutes polishing will bring it back, and finally a couple of coats of normal polish and thats it.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 044.jpg]]<br /> <br /> before<br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03969.JPG]]<br /> <br /> after<br /> <br /> [[Image:Car Nov 08 045.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=DIY_Smoked_Hellas&diff=2799 2010-02-05T22:29:39Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>== Introduction ==<br /> <br /> This is a basic idea of how to get yourself smoked Hella/Bosch lights for a very little amount of money (around a fiver), and around a weekend of messing about. My lights are Bosch units with a projector type main beam from a ‘92 cab, I think that some, if not all, older BMW’s (i.e. pre facelift) have slightly different driving lights that are not the projector type. I cannot tell you if this will work on them. My ’87 325 Sport is an American version that has fully sealed beams, alas American sealed beam type cannot be converted. The picture below shows the rear of my lights. <br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_001.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The first thing I must stress is if you want the finished results to look good you will have to take your time over it. If you start it on a Sunday afternoon you will balls it up if you need the car for work first thing Monday. Your first attempt (and hopefully your last) will take you around 6-8 hours and a night for paint drying. I am usually not the most patient of people and my handicraft skills are pretty poor although mechanically I am good, so if I can do it, so can you. <br /> <br /> <br /> == Tools and equipment ==<br /> <br /> You will need a basic tool set, mainly consisting of screwdrivers. You will need a hot air gun of around 5kW, I used a Makita you can see the type in the pictures. You will need a hot glue gun. You will need some tin snips or if you can find one, a Dremel (or any very high speed drill with a cutting disk). You will need some 1 or 2 mm Aluminium, steel or tin sheet. You will need some Epoxy glue and some high temp silicone (I used gasket silicone happy to 600°). And finally a tin or two of heatproof black spray paint.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Lenses off ==<br /> <br /> The first step is to remove the headlight assemblies from your car. Remove the two light surround grills, disconnect the three supply wires, then remove the three screws and remove each light unit. I won’t go into detail as if this bit stumps you stop now and forget it! Once the light units are in your hands pull off the metal ring around the circumference of each light. Then remove the driving light projector unit by removing the three screws at the back. Remove the main beam rear assembly and bulb. I personally did not remove the individual light units from the holder and got on fine, its up to you. The picture below shows the headlight units fully disassembled as far as I went. <br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_002.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Safety, the next bit is potentially dangerous so use some common sense! As your mum says its all fun till someone looses an eye, or if you are the type to accidentally (or otherwise) burn your mum’s / girlfriend’s / someone else’s girlfriend / someone else’s mum’s house down then be careful. Protect your eyes, wear gloves and think before leaving the heat gun on the settee while you go to make a cup of tea. Right that’s my sensible bit (and disclaimer!) so onwards. <br /> <br /> The idea next is to heat up the glue that bonds the glass lens to the plastic driving light and the metal high beam light. Use the hot air gun to heat the lens for around 10 mins. I have heard some people put their lights in the oven facing the grill to heat them up, that’s your choice but to do that you may have to disassemble the lights further. Any comments I would be glad to hear them, but I like my way. Once you have heated the glass and glue for 10 mins or so get two small flat screwdrivers and slowly and carefully use them to prise the lens off. The main beam has glass tabs you can get behind with the screw driver, the idea is to work at it for a bit, then apply heat for a few more minutes, and work at it again. Don’t rush, it is unlikely you will get the lens off first heat cycle, rushing it will result in a broken lens and a trip to the scrappies, yes I did it. The driving light has a plastic backing and I prised mine off from the bottom of the light, where it will be less visible, I managed to melt and break a small amount of the light surround first time but it will be hidden by the metal ring when you re-assemble them anyway so not to worry. Trick seems to be keep the heat gun moving aimed at the lens/glue area so you don’t melt the plastic holder. Again I stress work at it for a while then heat again repeating until it comes off. Here is the silly part, my first attempt had me finally prise the lens off and as it fell from the holder is went to catch it with my hand, and as it was at around 1000000° of course I dropped it and broke it, hence the gloves, and eye glasses. <br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_003.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == Smoking the driving light == <br /> <br /> If you get to this stage the rest is real easy. The driving light has a slivered piece of plastic (yours may have a smiley cut out but mine doesn’t) this is held in with the same glue, use the gun carefully to warm it up and pull it off. Them simply spray ‘em black! I personally painted the whole reflector, but as I was also fitting angel eyes at the time I was removing the side lights. You may want to keep the side lights and in this case you may want to tape off the side light reflector area. Best bet if you are unsure is to tape it off first, spray it and test it, you can always spray it black later if unsatisfied. Personally I would spray it all black and sod the side lights but check for MOT requirements. Heat proof paint will stop it cracking and I used a glossy finish, but think a matt finish may have looked better, can’t help you, so up to you, again comments welcome. The picture below shows my reflectors painted black! Remember follow spray can instructions, clean and dry the reflector, hold can 12-13inches away, sweeping motions, and lots of thin coats leave to dry between coats. Practice on a coke bottle or bit of wood first if you cannot spray paint, get it right and it will look good. Get it wrong and you will be disappointed. <br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_004.jpg]]<br /> <br /> == Smoking the main (high) beam ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_005.jpg]]<br /> <br /> This bit is a little more tricky and even involves cutting and sticking! The idea is to make the interior of the light appear black but still allowing the mirror to direct 100% of the light foreword toward the road and rabbits. The driving light uses a projector system thus the reflector you have painted black has little effect, but the high beam uses a bulb, concentrated and directed by a mirrored reflector, thus it’s reflector cannot be sprayed black. Those of you who have already done so (as you are confused which is high beam and driving lights) can also go down to the scrappies as you have f*@%ed your main beam and now need a new one! The trick is to fool happy passers by (and non-E30zoners) into seeing a black reflector, this clever trick accomplished by inserting what I call a thingy. The thingy is a black piece of plastic or metal shaped in a 3D cross that sits in your main beam reflector, perpendicular to the angle of the mirror, and splitting the reflector into four quarters (What???). The thingy (well the mirror really) reflects its black colour around the reflector bowl and hey presto it appears black from certain angles! Its extremely hard to explain this shape so look at the pictures to the right.<br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_006.jpg]]<br /> <br /> I could not buy one of these thingies so I made one myself. Sorry no pattern as I stuck it together before I had chance (mine also modified to accept angel eyes). I experimented with cardboard and scissors until I found the shape of the reflector bowl, I then used a piece of 2mm galvanised steel sheet and cut the shapes out with the tin snips and finished with a high speed cutting drill (a Dremel). It will take a bit of messing around but what to do! Once you are happy with the shape of your thingy glue it together with epoxy glue and leave to set. Then spray it black. Again take your time spraying and the results will pay off. I sprayed my thingies, let them dry, then popped ‘em in the oven for an hour at 70-80° and baked them to fully harden the paint. <br /> <br /> For those with pre-face lift, non-projector, lights you could probably repeat this process for the driving lights as I think they use a similar bulb and mirrored reflector system. Let me (or others really) know.<br /> <br /> <br /> == The Final Assembly Bit == <br /> <br /> I really hope you have got this far with your eyes, house in tact, and a lovely black pair of hot thingies. Now stick the driving light reflector back into the holder and secure it with a drop of hot glue. Next take some heat proof silicone (or silicone ‘gasket in a tube’ good to 600°) and stick your thingy into its final position inside the high beam reflector. I stuck mine at 45° to the road because of my angel eyes, but note that the real things are parallel to the road, try a mock up and play around before sticking it in its final position. A tip is to glue the underneath so it will not be visible from the top where, unless you run people over frequently, no one should see the glue. <br /> <br /> Now clean the reflectors (and glass lenses too) and stick the glass lenses back onto their backings using a hot glue gun. Make sure they are the right way up and that the driving light lens is not on the main beam backing. I would suggest several mock ups before final assembly, I couldn’t resist mocking it up at each stage to see how wicked they looked! Do the same. I would also clean the halogen bulbs with a tissue and cleaning alcohol as your greasy mitts would have probably touched them, which will cause hot spots and burnt out bulbs. <br /> <br /> It is possible to re-use the old glue by simply heating it back up with the heat gun and pushing the lenses back on. Personally I don’t like this idea as I am sure it will compromise the weather proofing of the lens, as I live in sunny Bahrain and drive a cab they never get wet, but for the majority of you who are in U.K. this will be an issue. It seems a waste of time to do a good job then skimp on the little things. Most garages will have one so go and ask if you can borrow, if you don’t, then expect water inside your lights and blown bulbs in winter.<br /> <br /> <br /> == The Final Touch ==<br /> <br /> These ideas are optional but I think they make a difference. The metal rings that were around the lights you took off in step one are now probably lost somewhere deep in your dark garage, those rings on mine were scratched and had lost their finish, so I sprayed them black too. These rings will be exposed to the elements so the spray job will have to be better then what you did on your thingies, you will have to prep the ring with something like emery paper so the paint can bond to the metal, prime it in red, then spray them black with at least 5 coats, sanding down imperfections with wet 800-1000 grade sand paper, once dried I baked them in the oven with the thingies, and finally a clear lacquer top coat or two and back in the oven for an hour. Failure to paint these properly will result in stone chips etc, as those who painted their kidneys black with one coat will vouch for! <br /> <br /> For those who want to be extra picky I then sprayed the rims of my high beam light black too as it seemed to help a little. This was an alternative to cros’ idea of using black glue to re-stick the lens. <br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_007.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then I coloured the shield inside the driving light projector unit black too, I painted a piece of galvanised steel and glued it to the shield facing out toward the magnifying glass, rather then try to spray it. It shows a little as you can see from the picture below left is coloured right is not.<br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_008.jpg]]<br /> <br /> And the final assembly:<br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_009.jpg]]<br /> <br /> That’s it! <br /> <br /> Now stick the light units all back together in reverse order as Haines would say, and back into your shiny Lachs Silver BMW 335ti, or rusty brown 316, test they work, and get out on the street. Girls will gasp as you drive by, as will most guys, children will point and grannies will turn their backs in disgust at the black gaping holes you have created on the front of your BMW. Enjoy it for the week until you realise that just because you have modified your car it does not necessarily mean compete strangers will notice that it wasn’t like that last Friday! You can however be smug to know that you did it yourself, it didn’t cost the earth and, if you as an E30 nut like them, chances are so will the others. (Don’t like to mention it but those with those funny E34 barges can also do the above as their lights are the same design, but I reckon it is exclusively an E30 fashion.) <br /> <br /> [[Image:smoke_010.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Trust me when I say the pictures do them very little justice, real life looks much better, now check them with my angel eyes turned on, they look amazing at night!!<br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Upgrade_(Rear)&diff=2798 2010-02-05T22:28:40Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Rear Suspension Replacement - Springs &amp; Shocks <br /> <br /> Lifted from E30 Tech Website<br />  <br /> Disclaimer: <br /> E30tech.com cannot be held responsible if these instructions are not correct or do not work for any reason. <br /> You perform these instructions at your own risk. <br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> The following parts were used in this replacement: <br /> <br /> 2 Rear Ireland Engineering Stage 3 Race Springs - Part # e30rspring<br /> 2 Rear Bilstein Sport Shocks - Part # B36-2027 <br />  <br /> You will need many various items/tools to complete this installation:<br /> <br /> Various socket wrenches &amp; sockets<br /> 19mm , 17mm &amp; 13mm open ended wrenches <br /> Vice grips <br /> Cutting Pliers <br /> Safety Goggles &amp; Mechanics Gloves (highly recommended) <br /> Torque Wrench(s)<br /> Jack <br />  <br /> I suggest you start by placing your e30 securely onto jack stands. Be sure to remove your rear wheels, and make sure your engine is off. <br />  <br /> <br />  <br /> In this article, we will be looking mostly at the passenger side. <br />  <br />  <br /> <br /> <br /> Step 1: <br /> Unbolt the exhaust hangers and let the exhaust suspend freely. This will allow your CV joints enough room for clearance during spring removal. <br /> <br /> (EDIT: I didn't actually drop my exhaust when I did mine and really didn't need to either)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 2: <br /> Remove the differential's 19mm mounting bolt. Then, slowly lower the differential an inch or two onto a jack. <br />  <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 3:<br /> Disconnect the speed sensor from the differential. You will be lowering the differential more in a few steps and you do not want to have the speed sensor connected while doing that. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 4:<br /> Disconnect the rear stabilizer bar connecting link from the trailing arm. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:4.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 5: <br /> Remove the bolt connecting the shock to the trailing arm. Once you remove this bolt, the trailing arm will drop down a few inches. Be sure to drop the differential down some more, so you do not place added stress on your CV joints. Lowering the differential in unison with the CV joints will relieve those added stresses. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:5.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 6: <br /> Place your foot on the rotor and put your weight on it, while you remove the rear spring. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:6.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 7:<br /> Move your inner trunk lining enough to give yourself access to the upper shock mounting bolts. Then, remove the upper shock mounting bolts, while holding onto the shock. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Step 8:<br /> Once you remove the shock from your e30, you should have something like the upper part of Picture 8. Remove the old hardware from the old shock and reinstall them onto the new shock. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:8.jpg]]<br />  <br /> <br /> If your rear shock mounts look anything like that in Picture 9, then I suggest you replace them with new ones. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Step 9:<br /> Installation is the opposite of removal.<br />  <br /> Be sure to torque your items to the following:<br /> - Shock absorber to upper mounting bracket - Bilstein recommended torque <br /> - Lower shock mount to trailing arm - Bilstein recommended torque<br /> - Stabilizer bar connecting link - 30 ft. lb. (42 Nm) <br /> - Differential mounting bolt - 58-63 ft. lb. (80-87 Nm)<br />   <br />  <br />   <br />  <br /> Once installed, your springs and shocks should look like that in Picture 10. (Driver side shown)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> All Done!!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Basic_M40_Servicing&diff=2796 2010-02-05T22:21:53Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>M40 Engine - Basic Servicing<br /> <br /> Just got your first 4 pot e30?!<br /> <br /> Don’t know when it was last serviced?<br /> <br /> Scared of the Spanner?!<br /> <br /> This guide was made for you!<br /> <br /> The m40 engine is actually a really pleasant engine to work on, provided you follow these basic rules… <br /> <br /> Respect it (bolts are more likely to shear if you hit the spanner with a sledge hammer!) <br /> Stay calm and take your time. <br /> Don’t get distracted. Keep Children, pets and nagging wives/husbands well away. <br /> <br /> To make your m40 purr like a kitty at idle, roar like a lion through the rev range, and scream like Steve Tyler at the limiter you'll need… <br /> <br /> * Coolant Change<br /> 5L of Coolant (mix it 60/40 water/antifreeze)<br /> <br /> * Flat blade screw driver (for releasing coolant pipes)<br /> <br /> * 10mm socket (for thermostat housing)<br /> <br /> * Large Flat Blade screw driver for releasing bleed screw <br /> <br /> * Oil Change<br /> <br /> * 5L of engine oil (5w-40, 10w-40 or 10w-50 as recommended by Simon aka oilman)<br /> <br /> * GENUINE Fram oil filter (has all the non return valves etc, and worth the money)<br /> <br /> * 17mm socket + wrench (for sump plug)<br /> <br /> * Spark Plug Change<br /> <br /> * 4x Spark Plugs, preferably NGK brand (NGK BPR6ES)<br /> <br /> * Masking tape + pen<br /> <br /> * 19mm Spark plug tool<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Overview of an m40<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Do the coolant first… <br /> <br /> RHS=Right Hand Side<br /> LHS=Left Hand Side (sitting in driver’s seat)<br /> <br /> IMPORTANT!!!! MAKE SURE THE CAR AND COOLANT ARE COLD BEFORE OPENING THE CAP ON THE EXPANSION TANK OR DRAINING COOLANT!!!!!!! <br /> <br /> ****Disconnect Battery**** <br /> <br /> 1.Loosen off and remove the cap on the header tank (at LHS of radiator)<br /> <br /> Check the tank and cap for ‘mayo’ which is a sign that oil is mixing with the coolant (not good). Move the heater temp control to fully cold to prevent air locks in the heater matrix<br /> <br /> Also check that the bottom is yellow and rated at 140.If not go to the dealer and get one. (they were subject to a recall years ago as the originals weren’t up to the job)<br /> <br /> 2.Undo bottom hose from radiator at RHS of the car, let coolant drain (catch it in a bucket and dispose of properly) <br /> <br /> 3.Undo the 3x 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing (at the front of the engine, in front of the distributor cap) (may need to remove small fuel hose to access one of the top bolts)<br /> <br /> 4.Remove thermostat, and check its ok (should be closed if cold) If in doubt an new one is £9.99 from GSF/ECP. Bolt housing back together.<br /> <br /> 5.Insert hose into header tank (at LHS of Radiator) and flush system until water is running clear. <br /> <br /> 6.Remove top hose (LHS) from radiator and flush through with hose until clear <br /> <br /> 7.Replace the thermostat, and reattach all hoses <br /> <br /> 8.Pour the coolant into the header tank (at LHS of radiator) SLOWLY and give it time to settle. (should take about 4.5l to get to cold level marker) <br /> <br /> 9.Set the heaters to full (HOT and no. 4 fan setting, open all vents) and start car. <br /> <br /> 10.Let car idle for 5-10mins keeping an eye on the temp gauge <br /> <br /> 11.Open the bleed screw (next to the expansion tank cap) WATCH OUT FOR THE COOLANT SPRAYING!!!! (use a cloth to cover it!)<br /> <br /> 12.Repeat bleeding until all air is out and only water comes out when bleed screw is opened. Top up if required.<br /> <br /> 13.Get a cup of coffee and relax for 20 mins<br /> <br /> Oil change is easy... <br /> <br /> ****Wear latex gloves to save your skin**** <br /> <br /> 1.Switch car off (oil should be warm so as much comes out as possible) <br /> <br /> 2.Go underneath car with 17mm socket and loosen the sump plug (make sure you have something to catch the oil!!!) <br /> <br /> 3.Remove oil filler cap and let car drain for 10mins.(can check how much is left using the dipstick) <br /> <br /> 4.Replace sump plug and tighten (but not too much) <br /> <br /> 5.Remove oil filter, (on RHS of block beneath exhaust) <br /> <br /> 6.Fit new oil filter (smear rubber seal on top with fresh oil to ensure good seal)<br /> <br /> 7.Remove oil filler cap (on top of engine) and fill SLOWLY with about 4.5l of oil (use dipstick to check level regularly)<br /> <br /> 8.Replace oil filler cap and start engine, allow to idle for 10 mins. <br /> <br /> 9. Check oil level again after leaving to stand for 10 minutes, check for leaks at the sump plug and filter, correct as required.<br /> <br /> Spark plugs... <br /> <br /> IMPORTANT!!!!! DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRONICS!!!!<br /> <br /> 1.Remove the Spark plug leads ONE AT A TIME and (using masking tape + pen) number them 1-4. <br /> <br /> 2. Remove the Distributor cap and check the condition of the Rotor arm and Cap (replace as required).<br /> <br /> 3. Inspect the leads for any sign of breakages/cracking. <br /> <br /> 4. remove the spark plugs ONE AT A TIME using the 19mm spark plug puller (may need an extension for plug 4 (nearest the windscreen)<br /> <br /> Inspect the plug for signs of the car running rich (black soot), flooding (plug is immaculate as petrol washes it). Car running lean (Light brown/sand colour<br /> <br /> 5. Put in new spark plugs (put them in by hand until tight then ‘nip’ them a bit tighter with the puller) and refit leads <br /> <br /> 6. start the car and go for a well earned cruise <br /> <br /> This article is copy write to E30zone and must not be replicated without prior permission. Written and photographed by Neil Purdom<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category:Servicing ]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Big_Bore_Throttle_Bodies&diff=2757 2010-01-27T20:54:23Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>== FAQ ==<br /> <br /> '''Q''': What power gain can I expect?<br /> <br /> '''A''': I have never had one on the rolling road, but the difference can be felt immediately. Mid range flat spots disappear and the engine revs with far more urgency to the red line. The body will flow up to 17% more air than standard. Try asking anyone who has one. They will verify this. It's often described as easily the best value engine mod that you can do!<br /> <br /> '''Q:''' Does the engine require any adjustment or chipping.<br /> <br /> '''A:''' No. The body will bolt straight on without any further adjustments required. <br /> <br /> '''Q:''' Do I need a free flow air filter?<br /> <br /> '''A:''' Yes. A K&amp;N or similar panel filter replacement will be fine. More gains can be obtained by using a cold air system. It really depends on if you want the quiet nature of the standard air box or the additional noise of a cold air system. <br /> <br /> '''Q:''' If this mod is so good, why didn't BMW do it at the factory?<br /> <br /> '''A:''' Mass production methods require a safe production run, with minimal machining time. To machine the body to the fine tolerances, shape and finish of the Big Bore spec would be far too expensive for them.<br /> <br /> '''Q:''' Do I need to tell the insurance company?<br /> <br /> '''A:''' That is up to you! The body looks totally standard from the outside. It would take an extremely vigilant insurance inspector to find it. <br /> <br /> == News from Bexley Motor Works ==<br /> <br /> '''Cheapest power hike on the market?'''<br /> <br /> We all know about making our cars breathe better for better performance and few serious owners would not have upgraded their air filters, and exhausts perhaps had their heads gas flowed and of course the whole package ‘chipped or the existing ECU re-mapped<br /> <br /> E30 readers might have noticed that a lot of car modification specs recently have been listing a ‘bigger throttle body’ as part of their performance package. Alpina used these as part of their highly successful and very quick 2.7 cars so there is some pedigree for such a modification.<br /> <br /> Log on to www.e30zone.co.uk and you find much talk of this modification and even how to get your hands on one. But are they any good? How much extra power will they give? E30 specialist Bexley Motor Works had the ideal opportunity to test one when one of their regular customers posed this very question. He had sourced one himself from the e30zone, Nigel and Jags decided to put it to the test on their now famous rolling road<br /> <br /> The car in question was an ’89 325 Sport with one of their 2.7 conversions. (The engine had been originally been in the customers 323i and been swapped over along with suspension, wheels, interior, etc when rust finally brought the demise of the donor car.) It has the usual ETA long throw crank, 323i con rods, Mahle lightweight pistons, gas flowed head, K&amp;N panel filter, Scorpion back box and had been re-mapped.<br /> <br /> The test comprised a simple before and after power run. The first test with the standard 325 item showed the car to be producing a very respectable 234.6 bhp at 6154 rpm and 220.8 lb/ft of torque at 4645 rpm. This is a lot of power from such a package which is largely down to a combination of Jags mechanics and Nigel’s expert mapping over the years.<br /> <br /> At first sight, the bigger throttle doesn’t look that much bigger and there was some skepticism as to what difference it would make. It’s quite a simple job to fit - only just enough time for coffee and the car was ready for the second run!<br /> <br /> Nigel was beaming when the figures popped out of the computer. This simple mod had hiked the bhp up to 240.7 at 6282 and the torque up to 227lb at 4470 rpm. The curve characteristics had changed for the better too.<br /> <br /> The proof of the pudding is of course in the driving and it is reported that throttle response has improved noticeably, power being more freely available and motorway cruising seems to be ‘lighter’. <br /> <br /> So what did all this cost? The part was sourced from one of the e30zone members on an exchange basis for £120 plus the cost of sending the old part back. <br /> <br /> Nigel reckons his is really a worthwhile modification. Its not easy getting 7 or 8 more bhp from a part when you’re already working at the top end of an engine’s capability so this has perhaps got to represent the best £ per bhp available!<br /> <br /> Full reproduction quality pictures and power print-out available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Results ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:dyno_001.jpg]]<br /> <br /> == More Information ==<br /> <br /> More information available from Nigel French or Jags Bhamra<br /> <br /> Bexley Motor Sport, 10a Lion Road, Bexleyheath Kent DA6 6NR<br /> <br /> Tel: 020 8304 9797 Fax: 020 8304 0345 www.BMSport.com<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: E30 Engines]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Cleaning_injectors&diff=2756 2010-01-27T20:53:54Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Pelican Technical Article: <br /> <br /> Cleaning Fuel Injectors On The BMW E30 3Series<br /> <br /> Jared Fenton<br /> <br /> Difficulty Level: 3<br /> <br /> Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one<br /> <br /> Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten<br /> <br />      Is your car running sluggishly? Are you noticing a slight stumble as you drive? Chances are, your fuel injectors need to be cleaned. In this tech article, I will go over the easy steps in removing the fuel injectors and cleaning them out. This article applies to my E30 325is 6 cylinder, however the principles behind this apply to nearly every car in general. Usually, most people just run a can of fuel injector cleaner in a full tank of gas. I would also recommend this, but in cases of cars that have been poorly maintained or have been sitting for a while, the only way to get those injectors truly clean is to pull them out.<br /> <br />      That said, let’s begin. The first step is to disconnect the battery, as we will be working around fuel injection components and raw fuel. You don’t want a spike going through the system. This could fry your fuel injection computer. Also, you don’t want t a random spark igniting raw fuel. This is VERY bad. You will have to sit back and watch as your car goes up in flames. Disconnect the battery and be safe.<br /> <br />      Run the car until you have less than a quarter tank of fuel in there. This will reduce the overall amount of fuel pressure in the system and help prevent raw fuel from gushing out when you remove the injectors. Now, start out by removing the hose clamp holding the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator and plug the fuel line using a bolt. Also disconnect the vacuum hose at the top of the regulator. This picture shows the fuel pressure regulator. Now look at the rear of the engine on the passenger side right above the valve cover. You will see the connection for the rear fuel line. Loosen the hose clamp that holds it to the fuel rail and remove the fuel line. Plug the end of the fuel line with a bolt. Be prepared for some raw fuel to spill out of the lines. Just have a rag nearby to clean the fuel up.<br /> <br />      Now, Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the bracket between the valve cover and the intake manifold. Now take the bracket off and set it aside. We will need to remove this bracket in order to remove the fuel rail. Now loosen the hose clamp holding the breather hose to the valve cover and pull the breather hose off and move it out of the way.<br />      We now must remove the six electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Simply push the metal bar in and pull up on the connectors to remove them. Now, locate the four 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in place. This picture shows the location near the front of the engine. This picture shows the bolts near the rear.<br /> <br />      Now, pull up on the fuel rail evenly from each end. You may have to use a little force to get the injectors out of the intake manifold. Once out, maneuver the whole fuel rail from out between the cylinder head and the intake manifold. Be sure to have a coffee can or some other sort of tray around to catch the extra fuel inside the fuel rail. Now take the whole fuel rail over to a workbench or other suitable work area.<br /> <br />      We will now need to separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail. Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the retaining clips holding the injectors on and store them in a safe place. Now pull the injectors out of the fuel rails. You may have to use a little force to get them out. Keep in mind that you will most likely have a little bit of gas spill out when you remove them. Once out, remove the old seals on the top and bottom of the injectors and throw them away. You never want to re-use injector seals. If you do, there is a chance they may crack. This could cause an air leak or worse, cause raw fuel to leak out.<br /> <br />      With the injectors out, you might see a build-up of crud on the tips. This is usually a mixture of carbon deposits, fuel additives and gas. Use a rag to wipe off as much as you can. Now, get a can of brake cleaner and spray the outside of the injectors and the tips. Use a soft brush to remove any grime on the tips. Now spray a bit of brake cleaner down the inside of each injector and blow them out with some compressed air. You may be surprised at what comes out of there. Each fuel injector has a small filter that collects any debris or crud in the fuel system. Spraying the brake cleaner in there will dissolve any deposits in there.<br /> <br />      A good way to clean the inside is to spray cleaner in there, then hit it with compressed air. Keep doing this until the brake cleaner coming out is clear. This is an indication that they are clean. CAUTION: be sure to use goggles when you do this, as the compressed air will spray the cleaner everywhere. You don’t want this stuff to get into your eyes.<br /> <br />      Once you have all the injectors clean, get some new fuel injector seals and place them on each end of each injector (Pelican Parts carries these seals for $0.61 each. You will need 12 of them) Now to re-install them, put a little engine oil on the outside of the seals and press them back into the fuel rail. The engine oil will help you push them into the fuel rail as well as help seal them. Now re-install the retaining clips the secure the injectors into the fuel rail.<br /> <br />      Now, go back to the car and plug each injector port with a small piece of paper towel. Now take some brake cleaner and a small brush and clean the area around the injector ports. This will clean the area and prevent any loose dirt or debris from entering the injector ports. Take the paper towels out and look inside each port to make sure there is no dirt in there. If there is, use a small vacuum to suck it out.<br /> <br />      Coat each lower injector seal with a small bit of engine oil and position the fuel rail/ fuel injectors back in place in the intake manifold. Now, using equal pressure on both ends of the fuel rail, push down until each injector seats in the manifold. Now re-install the four 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in place.<br /> <br />      Once installed, re-attach the fuel line on the rear of the fuel rail and tighten the hose clamp that holds it in place. Now move to the front of the rail and re-attach the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator and tighten the hose clamp that holds it in place. Also re-connect the vacuum hose at the top of the regulator. Now push the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors back on. Just push them down until they click.<br /> <br />      Now take the valve cover breather hose and push it back onto it’s fitting on the valve cover and tighten the hose clamp that holds it on. Next, re-attach the bracket that holds the intake manifold to the valve cover and install the four 10mm bolts that hold it in place. Now would be a good time to change out the fuel filter on the car if you have not already done so. <br /> <br />      Now re-connect the battery and fill the tank up. When you restart the car, it may take a few times to get it to run. This is normal. Keep in mind that the fuel system is under constant pressure and we just opened it up, introducing air into the fuel lines. It will take a little time for the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors and pump all the air out of the system.<br /> <br />      Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.<br /> <br /> [[Category: E30 Engines]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=320_to_325_throttle_body_conversion&diff=2755 2010-01-27T20:53:05Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>== Parts Required == <br /> <br /> Complete 325I throttle body <br /> <br /> New 325I throttle body gasket <br /> <br /> Inlet manifold gaskets <br /> <br /> Induction tube to fit the 325I throttle body and also to fit your existing Idle Control Valve (T or L shape) <br /> <br /> == Tools Required ==<br /> <br /> Socket set and spanners <br /> <br /> Selection of screwdrivers <br /> <br /> Die grinder or drill <br /> <br /> [[Image:throttlebod_001.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Cylindrical ball nosed burr {a} (Available from engineering suppliers and good tool shops) <br /> <br /> A fine file or emery cloth <br /> <br /> Degreaser <br /> <br /> Confidence <br /> <br /> Procedure <br /> <br /> == Removal ==<br /> <br /> 1. Disconnect battery.<br /> <br /> 2. Remove airflow meter and air filter box.<br /> <br /> 3. Remove induction hose and idle control valve.<br /> <br /> 4. Disconnect throttle cable.<br /> <br /> 5. Mark and remove all pipes from the throttle body.<br /> <br /> 6. Disconnect the throttle switch connector.<br /> <br /> 7. Undo the 4 bolts from the throttle body (10mm).<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the throttle body.<br /> <br /> 9. Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes from the fuel rail.<br /> <br /> 10. Disconnect the blue and brown connectors from the temperature sensors on the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> 11. Disconnect and remove the round multi-plug for the injector loom (on the passengers’ side of the block).<br /> <br /> 12. Remove the inlet manifold support bracket from the top of the rocker cover.<br /> <br /> 13. Using a ¼” drive 12mm socket remove the 13 inlet manifold to head nuts.<br /> <br /> 14. Remove the inlet manifold from the head (the centre mounting stud is longer than the rest and the manifold will need a bit of pushing and pulling to get it off).<br /> <br /> 15. There is a spring loaded crankcase breather tube that locates under the manifold that may stop the manifold from being removed, push down on it and move it to one side. <br /> <br /> == Modifying the inlet manifold ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:throttlebod_002.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 1. Using the new throttle body gasket mark the amount of metal to be removed from the manifold.<br /> <br /> 2. Bear in mind that the bottom of the hole cannot be ground out all the way as there will not be enough material left to make a good seal so leave a 4mm lip between the 5 to 7 O’clock positions.<br /> <br /> 3. Carefully grind out the manifold to the mark made in step 1. Using the drill or grinder and burr.<br /> <br /> 4. Using a file or abrasive cloth remove any sharp edges and smooth the hole.<br /> <br /> 5. Flush the inside of the manifold out with degreaser and lots of water; you don’t want any bits of metal in your engine.<br /> <br /> 6. Dry completely. <br /> <br /> == Setting up the Throttle Body ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:throttlebod_003.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 320i to 325i Throttle Body Conversion<br /> <br /> Parts Required <br /> Complete 325I throttle body <br /> <br /> New 325I throttle body gasket <br /> <br /> Inlet manifold gaskets <br /> <br /> Induction tube to fit the 325I throttle body and also to fit your existing Idle Control Valve (T or L shape) <br /> <br /> Tools Required <br /> Socket set and spanners <br /> <br /> Selection of screwdrivers <br /> <br /> Die grinder or drill <br /> <br /> Cylindrical ball nosed burr {a} (Available from engineering suppliers and good tool shops) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> A fine file or emery cloth <br /> <br /> Degreaser <br /> <br /> Confidence <br /> <br /> Procedure <br /> <br /> Removal <br /> <br /> 1. Disconnect battery.<br /> <br /> 2. Remove airflow meter and air filter box.<br /> <br /> 3. Remove induction hose and idle control valve.<br /> <br /> 4. Disconnect throttle cable.<br /> <br /> 5. Mark and remove all pipes from the throttle body.<br /> <br /> 6. Disconnect the throttle switch connector.<br /> <br /> 7. Undo the 4 bolts from the throttle body (10mm).<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the throttle body.<br /> <br /> 9. Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes from the fuel rail.<br /> <br /> 10. Disconnect the blue and brown connectors from the temperature sensors on the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> 11. Disconnect and remove the round multi-plug for the injector loom (on the passengers’ side of the block).<br /> <br /> 12. Remove the inlet manifold support bracket from the top of the rocker cover.<br /> <br /> 13. Using a ¼” drive 12mm socket remove the 13 inlet manifold to head nuts.<br /> <br /> 14. Remove the inlet manifold from the head (the centre mounting stud is longer than the rest and the manifold will need a bit of pushing and pulling to get it off).<br /> <br /> 15. There is a spring loaded crankcase breather tube that locates under the manifold that may stop the manifold from being removed, push down on it and move it to one side. <br /> <br /> Modifying the inlet manifold <br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Using the new throttle body gasket mark the amount of metal to be removed from the manifold.<br /> <br /> 2. Bear in mind that the bottom of the hole cannot be ground out all the way as there will not be enough material left to make a good seal so leave a 4mm lip between the 5 to 7 O’clock positions.<br /> <br /> 3. Carefully grind out the manifold to the mark made in step 1. Using the drill or grinder and burr.<br /> <br /> 4. Using a file or abrasive cloth remove any sharp edges and smooth the hole.<br /> <br /> 5. Flush the inside of the manifold out with degreaser and lots of water; you don’t want any bits of metal in your engine.<br /> <br /> 6. Dry completely. <br /> <br /> Setting up the Throttle Body <br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Set the throttle backstop so that the butterfly plate in the TB shuts completely but does not stick.<br /> <br /> 2. Set the throttle switch so that the micro switch can be heard to click, it can be quiet so hold it to your ear, it should be set so that it operates as soon as the butterfly plate begins to move. Loosen the 2 screws underneath the switch to turn the switch until it is set correctly then re-tighten. <br /> <br /> == Refitting ==<br /> <br /> 1. Use a cable tie to compress the spring that fits around the crankcase breather tube, fit the spring to the tube and fit the tube into the crankcase.<br /> <br /> 2. Using new gaskets fit the inlet manifold onto the cylinder head.<br /> <br /> 3. Refit the inlet manifold mounting nuts and torque to17 Lbft.<br /> <br /> 4. Using a sharp knife or wire cutters cut the cable ties on the crankcase breather tube spring and locate the top of the tube into the recess on the underside of the inlet manifold.<br /> <br /> 5. Refit and connect the injector loom multi plug.<br /> <br /> 6. Refit the blue and brown temperature sensor plugs<br /> <br /> 7. Using a new gasket fit the throttle body onto the manifold and tighten the mounting nuts.<br /> <br /> 8. Refit the pipes to the throttle body.<br /> <br /> 9. Refit the throttle switch connector.<br /> <br /> 10. Refit the fuel supply and return pipes<br /> <br /> 11. Fit the idle control valve and the induction tube.<br /> <br /> 12. Fit the airflow meter and air filter box.<br /> <br /> 13. Fit the throttle cable and adjust as necessary.<br /> <br /> 14. Refit the inlet manifold support bracket.<br /> <br /> 15. Double check that everything is tightened and connected.<br /> <br /> 16. Refit the battery. <br /> <br /> Be aware that removing and re-connecting the battery resets the ECU and upon starting the car the ECU must retune itself, therefore the idle speed may be a little erratic for a while. <br /> <br /> [[Image:throttlebod_004.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:throttlebod_005.jpg]]<br /> <br /> This article is copy write to E30zone and must not be replicated without prior permission. Written and photographed by Iain Temple (Templ8e30)<br /> [[Category: E30 Engines]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=HID_Headlight_Conversion&diff=2754 2010-01-27T20:51:17Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>''(Originally Submitted on the E30 Zone by'' [[Morat]]) <br /> <br /> Fitting is very simple. The kit only touches the existing wiring where you connect up the red/black terminals on the back of the HID bulb to the yellow/black wires inside the headlight.<br /> First of all I used a Dremel to make a hole in the back of each headlight rear cover. The holes in the picture aren't finished. They ended up about the size of a 50p (and about as round!) so that the new bulb and wires could be threaded through.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Hidmorat1CAPS.JPG]]<br /> <br /> To hook up the bulbs, first you thread the new bulb into the place where the old one was. It fits, but only just. You need to be careful to approach the headlight straight or you could damage your new bulb. I shifted the water bottles out of the way to get a bit more space on the right hand side, and moved the coolant hose/cables to get some space on the left side (which is even tighter because of the ABS pump).<br /> <br /> Then you just use the red/black spade connectors in the picture below to connect to the brown/yellow ones in the existing wiring (you can see them in the picture above). Its obvious which goes where, due to the different sizes. I spent some time cleaning up the old connectors which were pretty filthy and corroded - probably the reason that the original headlights were so dim in the first place. The connector in the black wire fits inside the circular connector on the yellow wire which normally connects to the headlight reflector. It looks a bit dodgy but works fine. I taped up the bare copper so that they won't short out inside the headlight and laid them round the inside of the rear cap so that they wouldn't get in the way of the new bulb.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Hidmorat2BULB.JPG]]<br /> <br /> After that you can just pop the grommet into place to make a seal. I'll probably put some silicon sealant on it to make it really waterproof but it looks OK as it is. Here's the right hand light fitted, easier than the left hand side to see what’s going on...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Hidmorat3RHS.JPG]]<br /> <br /> Fitting the ballasts should be easy but it found it more tricky since I couldn't actually get under the car. In the end I just zip tied them in place for a temporary measure (which may well end up permanent depending on how well it works). Connecting the ballasts to the lights is simple. 3 connectors which can't go on the wrong way round - the kind of wiring I like!<br /> <br /> Here's where I put the left hand one. If anyone comes up with a better place - please tell me. I'm not really happy with it there.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Hidmorat4LEFT.JPG]]<br /> <br /> The good news is that they work! Awesome light and no radio interference or noise that you can hear in the cabin. If you turn the lights on with the bonnet open you can hear a whine from the ballasts but it doesn't matter in use.<br /> <br /> [[Image:43HID6K.jpg]]<br /> <br /> This is a shot taken at Squires Cafe just after dusk. The car on the left has 4300k HIDs fitted and the car on the right has 6000k burners. Its a very hard thing to capture on camera but the light from the car on the right is slightly but noticeably bluer on the 6000k HIDS. It is impossible to see here but the car on the left has standard sidelight bulbs which look very yellow in comparison to the HIDs. The best LED replacements look much better, but you'll probably have to see it &quot;in the flesh&quot; unless a pro photographer can capture it.<br /> Photo by Stonesie.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Upgrade_(Rear)&diff=2752 2010-01-27T20:07:32Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Rear Suspension Replacement - Springs &amp; Shocks <br /> <br /> Lifted from E30 Tech Website<br />  <br /> Disclaimer: <br /> E30tech.com cannot be held responsible if these instructions are not correct or do not work for any reason. <br /> You perform these instructions at your own risk. <br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> The following parts were used in this replacement: <br /> <br /> 2 Rear Ireland Engineering Stage 3 Race Springs - Part # e30rspring<br /> 2 Rear Bilstein Sport Shocks - Part # B36-2027 <br />  <br /> You will need many various items/tools to complete this installation:<br /> <br /> Various socket wrenches &amp; sockets<br /> 19mm , 17mm &amp; 13mm open ended wrenches <br /> Vice grips <br /> Cutting Pliers <br /> Safety Goggles &amp; Mechanics Gloves (highly recommended) <br /> Torque Wrench(s)<br /> Jack <br />  <br /> I suggest you start by placing your e30 securely onto jack stands. Be sure to remove your rear wheels, and make sure your engine is off. <br />  <br /> <br />  <br /> In this article, we will be looking mostly at the passenger side. <br />  <br />  <br /> <br /> <br /> Step 1: <br /> Unbolt the exhaust hangers and let the exhaust suspend freely. This will allow your CV joints enough room for clearance during spring removal. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 2: <br /> Remove the differential's 19mm mounting bolt. Then, slowly lower the differential an inch or two onto a jack. <br />  <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 3:<br /> Disconnect the speed sensor from the differential. You will be lowering the differential more in a few steps and you do not want to have the speed sensor connected while doing that. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 4:<br /> Disconnect the rear stabilizer bar connecting link from the trailing arm. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:4.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 5: <br /> Remove the bolt connecting the shock to the trailing arm. Once you remove this bolt, the trailing arm will drop down a few inches. Be sure to drop the differential down some more, so you do not place added stress on your CV joints. Lowering the differential in unison with the CV joints will relieve those added stresses. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:5.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 6: <br /> Place your foot on the rotor and put your weight on it, while you remove the rear spring. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:6.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 7:<br /> Move your inner trunk lining enough to give yourself access to the upper shock mounting bolts. Then, remove the upper shock mounting bolts, while holding onto the shock. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Step 8:<br /> Once you remove the shock from your e30, you should have something like the upper part of Picture 8. Remove the old hardware from the old shock and reinstall them onto the new shock. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:8.jpg]]<br />  <br /> <br /> If your rear shock mounts look anything like that in Picture 9, then I suggest you replace them with new ones. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Step 9:<br /> Installation is the opposite of removal.<br />  <br /> Be sure to torque your items to the following:<br /> - Shock absorber to upper mounting bracket - Bilstein recommended torque <br /> - Lower shock mount to trailing arm - Bilstein recommended torque<br /> - Stabilizer bar connecting link - 30 ft. lb. (42 Nm) <br /> - Differential mounting bolt - 58-63 ft. lb. (80-87 Nm)<br />   <br />  <br />   <br />  <br /> Once installed, your springs and shocks should look like that in Picture 10. (Driver side shown)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> All Done!!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category: Modifying]]</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Upgrade_(Rear)&diff=2751 2010-01-27T19:45:46Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div>Rear Suspension Replacement - Springs &amp; Shocks <br /> <br /> Lifted from E30 Tech Website<br />  <br /> Disclaimer: <br /> E30tech.com cannot be held responsible if these instructions are not correct or do not work for any reason. <br /> You perform these instructions at your own risk. <br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> The following parts were used in this replacement: <br /> <br /> 2 Rear Ireland Engineering Stage 3 Race Springs - Part # e30rspring<br /> 2 Rear Bilstein Sport Shocks - Part # B36-2027 <br />  <br /> You will need many various items/tools to complete this installation:<br /> <br /> Various socket wrenches &amp; sockets<br /> 19mm , 17mm &amp; 13mm open ended wrenches <br /> Vice grips <br /> Cutting Pliers <br /> Safety Goggles &amp; Mechanics Gloves (highly recommended) <br /> Torque Wrench(s)<br /> Jack <br />  <br /> I suggest you start by placing your e30 securely onto jack stands. Be sure to remove your rear wheels, and make sure your engine is off. <br />  <br /> <br />  <br /> In this article, we will be looking mostly at the passenger side. <br />  <br />  <br /> <br /> <br /> Step 1: <br /> Unbolt the exhaust hangers and let the exhaust suspend freely. This will allow your CV joints enough room for clearance during spring removal. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 2: <br /> Remove the differential's 19mm mounting bolt. Then, slowly lower the differential an inch or two onto a jack. <br />  <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 3:<br /> Disconnect the speed sensor from the differential. You will be lowering the differential more in a few steps and you do not want to have the speed sensor connected while doing that. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br />  <br /> Step 4:<br /> Disconnect the rear stabilizer bar connecting link from the trailing arm. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:4.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 5: <br /> Remove the bolt connecting the shock to the trailing arm. Once you remove this bolt, the trailing arm will drop down a few inches. Be sure to drop the differential down some more, so you do not place added stress on your CV joints. Lowering the differential in unison with the CV joints will relieve those added stresses. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:5.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 6: <br /> Place your foot on the rotor and put your weight on it, while you remove the rear spring. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:6.jpg]]<br /> <br />  <br /> Step 7:<br /> Move your inner trunk lining enough to give yourself access to the upper shock mounting bolts. Then, remove the upper shock mounting bolts, while holding onto the shock. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:7.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Step 8:<br /> Once you remove the shock from your e30, you should have something like the upper part of Picture 8. Remove the old hardware from the old shock and reinstall them onto the new shock. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:8.jpg]]<br />  <br /> <br /> If your rear shock mounts look anything like that in Picture 9, then I suggest you replace them with new ones. <br />  <br /> <br /> [[Image:9.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Step 9:<br /> Installation is the opposite of removal.<br />  <br /> Be sure to torque your items to the following:<br /> - Shock absorber to upper mounting bracket - Bilstein recommended torque <br /> - Lower shock mount to trailing arm - Bilstein recommended torque<br /> - Stabilizer bar connecting link - 30 ft. lb. (42 Nm) <br /> - Differential mounting bolt - 58-63 ft. lb. (80-87 Nm)<br />   <br />  <br />   <br />  <br /> Once installed, your springs and shocks should look like that in Picture 10. (Driver side shown)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:10.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> All Done!!!</div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:11.jpg&diff=2750 2010-01-27T19:42:21Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:10.jpg&diff=2749 2010-01-27T19:42:09Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:9.jpg&diff=2748 2010-01-27T19:41:57Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187 https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=File:8.jpg&diff=2747 2010-01-27T19:41:48Z

<p>Richy187: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Richy187