E30 Zone Wiki - User contributions [en]

Motorised headlamp adjusters

2011-06-24T11:56:32Z

DaveD: New page: http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/6/61/Motorised_headlamp_adjusters-1.pdf This describes how to convert your seized headlamp adjusters to e36 motorised

[[http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/6/61/Motorised_headlamp_adjusters-1.pdf]]

This describes how to convert your seized headlamp adjusters to e36 motorised

File:Motorised headlamp adjusters-1.pdf

2011-06-24T11:53:49Z

DaveD: This describes how to convert your seized headlight adjusters to e36 motoried

This describes how to convert your seized headlight adjusters to e36 motoried

File:Buying guide e30.pdf

2011-04-27T11:56:03Z

DaveD:

File:E30 cruise control install.pdf

2011-04-14T08:50:41Z

DaveD:

Fitting Tech2 front and rear bumpers

2011-02-08T14:07:00Z

DaveD:

'''Fitting Tech 2 front and rear bumpers to facelift cars'''http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/6/69/M-Technik_IIg.pdf

Written by Mrlee

Seems to be a lot of confusion about fitting the Mtech 2 bumpers and valances to a standard facelift car. It is actually relatively easy to do and requires only some minor drilling and purchasing of clips. All face lift cars can accept the Tech 2 front and rear bumpers including 4 door, touring, coupe and cabriolets. Pre facelift cars require fairly extensive modifications to the metal valance, tow eye, front and rear bumper mounts, rear bumper/wheel arch mating location etc. There are separate sites describing this job, a PM to mrLEE30 and I will send the link. I am not a fan of the Mtech side skirts so I did not fit them, however thanks to MickeyJ here is a site to show you how they go on (uploaded here by daved [[http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/6/69/M-Technik_IIg.pdf]] ).......
http://www.scchosting.com/e30/M-Technik%20II.pdf
keep scrolling down after the diagrams and you will find English on page 13. The tech 2 sill/door covers are specific to: a. the coupe b. the 4 door/touring and c. the cabriolets. This article does not cover any of this, only bumpers/valances. My advice is to read the whole article first before you start, as for the drilling there is a template available for this (51712239841), I didn’t have one so I explain how I did it.

'''Tools and parts'''

Mtech 2 front bumper, front Mtech valance, rear Mtech bumper. Try if possible to ensure the tow eye/fitting hardware covers are with it (2 on the rear, 2 on the front) and the front left and right brake air ducts are included as they are tech 2 specific items too, and if you don’t already have front fog lights you will need these to finish the look off.

parts: A: upper clips for lower valance : 51712239711 (7 Nos) B: expanding rivet for lower valance : 17111712963 (8 Nos) C: side clips for lower valance : 51711033719 (2 Nos) , 51711922599 (2 Nos) , 16131176747 (2Nos) D : rear guide left & right 51122239847 (1 Nos) , 51122238848 (1 Nos) , grommet 51711939303 (2 Nos) , rivet 51711936929 (2 Nos) (for better guide see: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1111&mospid=47263&btnr=51_0660&hg=51&fg=15)

Screwdrivers, 8mm,10mm, 13mm socket set/spanners, T-55 Torx socket (cheers Smithy) and ratchet drive (1/2 inch or bigger), A ruler/tape measure, a punch and hammer, Drill and 4mm metal bit , 8mm metal drill bit, WD40 or similar, red oxide paint, paint for priming (grey), Black silicone. A mate. Axel stands or an inspection pit.
The rear bumper

The Mtech 2 rear bumper is a one piece part with bumper and valance as one. If someone has this as a two piece it is a Tech1 item. Below you can see the rear bumper/valance in the foreground, and in the background you can see the tech 2 bumper and lower valance.

[[Image:DSC00054A.JPG]]

Start easy! Look underneath the rear bumper approximately inline with the edge of the number plate, you will see two holes, inside there are Torx bolts, remove these completely.

With the help of a mate pull the rear bumper backwards, its best to pull it straight and may require a good smack with the palm of your hand near where the bumper meets the rear wheel arch. Remove and store the bumper. Keep the fittings.

[[Image:Respray 002.jpg]]

Clean and lightly grease or oil the two side mountings (visible just below the fuel cap and in front of the boot air release flap on the picture above)

With a mate slide the tech 2 rear bumper and valance in to position, ensure the side mountings go into their counterpart and push into place so that the holes for the Torx bolts line up. Again keep it straight and push from both sides to prevent the side clips from jamming, a bit of persuasion with your palm or a soft mallet may be required. Once in position inspect the bumper to ensure it is straight with the body work and aligned with the rear wheel arches. If not: the two side mountings can be adjusted up, down, left ,and right. Decide which side needs adjusting and in which direction, then remove the bumper and loosen the 8mm bolts that clamp the side mountings, adjust and tighten as required and refit. This may take several attempts to get just right, but worth spending time on at this stage. Once the fit is correct re-fit the Torx bolts and tighten.

There are clips to be fitted to hold the rear valance to the side of the car (parts D in the list above) I did not fit mine as I didn’t want to drill the car there, so instead I used black silicone applied from the inside where the valance meets the body work, its been over a year and I have had no problems, its also easy to remove it required. If you must fit the clips then mock them up before you tighten the Torx bolts but after you have aligned the bumper, mark the hole, remove the bumper and drill, fit the grommet, and clip and re fit the bumper, tighten the Torx bolts and insert the rivet and fix.

[[Image:Car 06 014.jpg]]

'''The Front Bumper and Valance'''

The Mtech front bumper and valance are two separate pieces. The bumper mounts on the existing mountings and the valance requires some clips to be fitted to the existing metal valance. Where I mention valance in the article I mean the tech 2 fibre glass valance, if I say metal valance I mean the one on your car.

Depending on which car you have you may have a slightly different lower lip in your existing metal valance. Most will have the small 1 inch wide plastic lip spoiler, some may have the iS lip. Either way remove the lip, and remove the clips which hold it on. Below you can see the plastic clips below, remove them with a screwdriver (they may break but you don’t need them!)

[[Image:Respray 010.jpg]]

Now remove the fog lights and brake cooling ducts if you have them, remove the plastic covers that close the lower central air intake. Fog lights are removed by prising off the small rubber grommet visible from the front of the light, there are two, one will adjust the angle of the beam, the other (I think the lower one) will unscrew completely and the unit will come out, don’t forget to disconnect the wires.

Look underneath the front bumper and you will see the two Torx bolts that hold it in place, remove these completely, keep the bolts.

With a mate remove the bumper by pulling it straight forward, as with the rear bumper try to pull evenly from each side to avoid the side mountings jamming up. Pull the bumper half off and remove the indicator supply wires from behind the indicators, remove the bumper and store. You should have something like below, you can see the side mountings and lower metal valance sticking out about 4/5cm just above my fog lights. One of the centre bumper mounts which I shall refer to later can be seen above the hole for the brake cooling ducts.

[[Image:Respray 004.jpg]]

On the inside of the lower valance there are three mounting parts, and note what I call them. 1. the upper clips which fit into the recesses on the top of the valance, the recesses are visible below on the top edge of the valance above the fog light opening, 2. the lower brackets one is clearly seen at the bottom of the valance below 3. the side fixings (top left corner of the valance).

[[Image:Respray 003 plus.jpg]]

Now the tricky part….. Fit the valance in place on the car as best as possible, use a screwdriver or similar (nut and bolt ok) to align the lower brackets with the existing holes in the metal valance (see below, the picture is from underneath the car looking upwards), it certainly helps to have a pit or lift the front of the car and support on axle stands (never get under a car lifted with a jack only, be sensible people).

[[Image:Respray 012.jpg]]

Now get the valance as straight as possible and mark the centre of the recesses for the upper clips on your metal valance. Get them right as these will be your marking for drilling holes to fit the clips in the metal valance.

[[Image:Respray 013plus.jpg]]

Here comes the drill!!! Remove the valance after you have marked all 7 recesses. Now take your clips and notice the measurement from the edge of the clip to the centre fixing rivet, its about 13mm…

[[Image:Respray 018.jpg]]

Using you ruler measure 13mm from the edge of the metal valance (don’t forget its curved a bit so the picture below is actually a few mm too much) mark the point, punch a guide and drill the seven holes with the 4mm metal drill bit. Recheck by mocking up the valance again to make sure all is good, then drill out the holes with the 8mm drill bit. Remember the motto: check twice, drill once!!!

[[Image:Respray 019.jpg]]

That the hard bit over. Mask the painted bits of the car, and spray the new holes with red oxide paint, and a few coats of primer, don’t worry about the colour as you will not see it once all the bits are re-fitted, you do not want the tin worm in there!! Let it dry. Now fit the clips to the metal valance and push the valance in to place as a test fitting. You may notice I only drilled the centre five holes and didn’t bother with the two clips on the side I think I could not get the clips to mate up with the valance so I left them out.

[[Image:Respray 014.jpg]]

The side clips…on my tech2 valance the brackets that hold these clips were broken so I could not fit them without a load of messing about, I used black silicone applied from the inside to hold this part to the metal valance. If your brackets are ok then I would recommend fitting these, the technique is the same, mock up the lower valance with the clip and fixing bolt in place, measure where the holes are required for each side, drill, paint and check its right, do not fix it at this point.

Now fit the front bumper, clean and oil the side mountings, use a mate and fit the bumper as a trial first keeping it straight. Check for alignment. The front bumper has 4 adjustable mounting points, the two side mounting can be moved up, down, left and right, to get to the fixing bolts/screws you must get up underneath the front wing, it may be necessary to remove the horn on one side to get access. Adjust these as required and re tighten. The front two centre bumper mounts can also be adjusted. They are held on with two 13mm bolts, which can be loosened from the front and the mounts can be adjusted as required. My suggestion would be to leave these and try to adjust from the side mountings first, if that fails then try the centre mounts. Once happy refit the bumper, plug in the indicator supply and refit the Torx bolts and tighten.

Now fit the valance, There are some gaskets that must be refitted around the centre air intakes and brake duct intakes before you refit the valance, if you don’t have them don’t worry, I cannot really think what use they serve. The fitting step can be a bit tricky to get the recesses to mate up with the upper clips, I used some knifes (much to my wife’s appreciation) to open the clips and get the valance to clip in, you will know what I mean when you get to this stage, it just takes some fiddling, once the upper clips are in place, get underneath and fit the expanding rivets in to the holes and brackets and if you fitted the side fixings now fit the plastic nut. (or stick the sides of the valance in place with black silicone applied from the inside if you are like me)

Now refit the fog lights and Mtech2 brake cooling ducts, and if you want to the plastic central air intake cover.

That it, job done!!

[[Image:Bme.jpg]]

[[Category: Modifying]]

Fitting Tech2 front and rear bumpers

2011-02-08T14:06:00Z

DaveD:

'''Fitting Tech 2 front and rear bumpers to facelift cars'''http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/6/69/M-Technik_IIg.pdf

Written by Mrlee

Seems to be a lot of confusion about fitting the Mtech 2 bumpers and valances to a standard facelift car. It is actually relatively easy to do and requires only some minor drilling and purchasing of clips. All face lift cars can accept the Tech 2 front and rear bumpers including 4 door, touring, coupe and cabriolets. Pre facelift cars require fairly extensive modifications to the metal valance, tow eye, front and rear bumper mounts, rear bumper/wheel arch mating location etc. There are separate sites describing this job, a PM to mrLEE30 and I will send the link. I am not a fan of the Mtech side skirts so I did not fit them, however thanks to MickeyJ here is a site to show you how they go on (uploaded here by daved [[http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/6/69/M-Technik_IIg.pdf]]
http://www.scchosting.com/e30/M-Technik%20II.pdf
keep scrolling down after the diagrams and you will find English on page 13. The tech 2 sill/door covers are specific to: a. the coupe b. the 4 door/touring and c. the cabriolets. This article does not cover any of this, only bumpers/valances. My advice is to read the whole article first before you start, as for the drilling there is a template available for this (51712239841), I didn’t have one so I explain how I did it.

'''Tools and parts'''

Mtech 2 front bumper, front Mtech valance, rear Mtech bumper. Try if possible to ensure the tow eye/fitting hardware covers are with it (2 on the rear, 2 on the front) and the front left and right brake air ducts are included as they are tech 2 specific items too, and if you don’t already have front fog lights you will need these to finish the look off.

parts: A: upper clips for lower valance : 51712239711 (7 Nos) B: expanding rivet for lower valance : 17111712963 (8 Nos) C: side clips for lower valance : 51711033719 (2 Nos) , 51711922599 (2 Nos) , 16131176747 (2Nos) D : rear guide left & right 51122239847 (1 Nos) , 51122238848 (1 Nos) , grommet 51711939303 (2 Nos) , rivet 51711936929 (2 Nos) (for better guide see: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1111&mospid=47263&btnr=51_0660&hg=51&fg=15)

Screwdrivers, 8mm,10mm, 13mm socket set/spanners, T-55 Torx socket (cheers Smithy) and ratchet drive (1/2 inch or bigger), A ruler/tape measure, a punch and hammer, Drill and 4mm metal bit , 8mm metal drill bit, WD40 or similar, red oxide paint, paint for priming (grey), Black silicone. A mate. Axel stands or an inspection pit.
The rear bumper

The Mtech 2 rear bumper is a one piece part with bumper and valance as one. If someone has this as a two piece it is a Tech1 item. Below you can see the rear bumper/valance in the foreground, and in the background you can see the tech 2 bumper and lower valance.

[[Image:DSC00054A.JPG]]

Start easy! Look underneath the rear bumper approximately inline with the edge of the number plate, you will see two holes, inside there are Torx bolts, remove these completely.

With the help of a mate pull the rear bumper backwards, its best to pull it straight and may require a good smack with the palm of your hand near where the bumper meets the rear wheel arch. Remove and store the bumper. Keep the fittings.

[[Image:Respray 002.jpg]]

Clean and lightly grease or oil the two side mountings (visible just below the fuel cap and in front of the boot air release flap on the picture above)

With a mate slide the tech 2 rear bumper and valance in to position, ensure the side mountings go into their counterpart and push into place so that the holes for the Torx bolts line up. Again keep it straight and push from both sides to prevent the side clips from jamming, a bit of persuasion with your palm or a soft mallet may be required. Once in position inspect the bumper to ensure it is straight with the body work and aligned with the rear wheel arches. If not: the two side mountings can be adjusted up, down, left ,and right. Decide which side needs adjusting and in which direction, then remove the bumper and loosen the 8mm bolts that clamp the side mountings, adjust and tighten as required and refit. This may take several attempts to get just right, but worth spending time on at this stage. Once the fit is correct re-fit the Torx bolts and tighten.

There are clips to be fitted to hold the rear valance to the side of the car (parts D in the list above) I did not fit mine as I didn’t want to drill the car there, so instead I used black silicone applied from the inside where the valance meets the body work, its been over a year and I have had no problems, its also easy to remove it required. If you must fit the clips then mock them up before you tighten the Torx bolts but after you have aligned the bumper, mark the hole, remove the bumper and drill, fit the grommet, and clip and re fit the bumper, tighten the Torx bolts and insert the rivet and fix.

[[Image:Car 06 014.jpg]]

'''The Front Bumper and Valance'''

The Mtech front bumper and valance are two separate pieces. The bumper mounts on the existing mountings and the valance requires some clips to be fitted to the existing metal valance. Where I mention valance in the article I mean the tech 2 fibre glass valance, if I say metal valance I mean the one on your car.

Depending on which car you have you may have a slightly different lower lip in your existing metal valance. Most will have the small 1 inch wide plastic lip spoiler, some may have the iS lip. Either way remove the lip, and remove the clips which hold it on. Below you can see the plastic clips below, remove them with a screwdriver (they may break but you don’t need them!)

[[Image:Respray 010.jpg]]

Now remove the fog lights and brake cooling ducts if you have them, remove the plastic covers that close the lower central air intake. Fog lights are removed by prising off the small rubber grommet visible from the front of the light, there are two, one will adjust the angle of the beam, the other (I think the lower one) will unscrew completely and the unit will come out, don’t forget to disconnect the wires.

Look underneath the front bumper and you will see the two Torx bolts that hold it in place, remove these completely, keep the bolts.

With a mate remove the bumper by pulling it straight forward, as with the rear bumper try to pull evenly from each side to avoid the side mountings jamming up. Pull the bumper half off and remove the indicator supply wires from behind the indicators, remove the bumper and store. You should have something like below, you can see the side mountings and lower metal valance sticking out about 4/5cm just above my fog lights. One of the centre bumper mounts which I shall refer to later can be seen above the hole for the brake cooling ducts.

[[Image:Respray 004.jpg]]

On the inside of the lower valance there are three mounting parts, and note what I call them. 1. the upper clips which fit into the recesses on the top of the valance, the recesses are visible below on the top edge of the valance above the fog light opening, 2. the lower brackets one is clearly seen at the bottom of the valance below 3. the side fixings (top left corner of the valance).

[[Image:Respray 003 plus.jpg]]

Now the tricky part….. Fit the valance in place on the car as best as possible, use a screwdriver or similar (nut and bolt ok) to align the lower brackets with the existing holes in the metal valance (see below, the picture is from underneath the car looking upwards), it certainly helps to have a pit or lift the front of the car and support on axle stands (never get under a car lifted with a jack only, be sensible people).

[[Image:Respray 012.jpg]]

Now get the valance as straight as possible and mark the centre of the recesses for the upper clips on your metal valance. Get them right as these will be your marking for drilling holes to fit the clips in the metal valance.

[[Image:Respray 013plus.jpg]]

Here comes the drill!!! Remove the valance after you have marked all 7 recesses. Now take your clips and notice the measurement from the edge of the clip to the centre fixing rivet, its about 13mm…

[[Image:Respray 018.jpg]]

Using you ruler measure 13mm from the edge of the metal valance (don’t forget its curved a bit so the picture below is actually a few mm too much) mark the point, punch a guide and drill the seven holes with the 4mm metal drill bit. Recheck by mocking up the valance again to make sure all is good, then drill out the holes with the 8mm drill bit. Remember the motto: check twice, drill once!!!

[[Image:Respray 019.jpg]]

That the hard bit over. Mask the painted bits of the car, and spray the new holes with red oxide paint, and a few coats of primer, don’t worry about the colour as you will not see it once all the bits are re-fitted, you do not want the tin worm in there!! Let it dry. Now fit the clips to the metal valance and push the valance in to place as a test fitting. You may notice I only drilled the centre five holes and didn’t bother with the two clips on the side I think I could not get the clips to mate up with the valance so I left them out.

[[Image:Respray 014.jpg]]

The side clips…on my tech2 valance the brackets that hold these clips were broken so I could not fit them without a load of messing about, I used black silicone applied from the inside to hold this part to the metal valance. If your brackets are ok then I would recommend fitting these, the technique is the same, mock up the lower valance with the clip and fixing bolt in place, measure where the holes are required for each side, drill, paint and check its right, do not fix it at this point.

Now fit the front bumper, clean and oil the side mountings, use a mate and fit the bumper as a trial first keeping it straight. Check for alignment. The front bumper has 4 adjustable mounting points, the two side mounting can be moved up, down, left and right, to get to the fixing bolts/screws you must get up underneath the front wing, it may be necessary to remove the horn on one side to get access. Adjust these as required and re tighten. The front two centre bumper mounts can also be adjusted. They are held on with two 13mm bolts, which can be loosened from the front and the mounts can be adjusted as required. My suggestion would be to leave these and try to adjust from the side mountings first, if that fails then try the centre mounts. Once happy refit the bumper, plug in the indicator supply and refit the Torx bolts and tighten.

Now fit the valance, There are some gaskets that must be refitted around the centre air intakes and brake duct intakes before you refit the valance, if you don’t have them don’t worry, I cannot really think what use they serve. The fitting step can be a bit tricky to get the recesses to mate up with the upper clips, I used some knifes (much to my wife’s appreciation) to open the clips and get the valance to clip in, you will know what I mean when you get to this stage, it just takes some fiddling, once the upper clips are in place, get underneath and fit the expanding rivets in to the holes and brackets and if you fitted the side fixings now fit the plastic nut. (or stick the sides of the valance in place with black silicone applied from the inside if you are like me)

Now refit the fog lights and Mtech2 brake cooling ducts, and if you want to the plastic central air intake cover.

That it, job done!!

[[Image:Bme.jpg]]

[[Category: Modifying]]

File:M-Technik IIg.pdf

2011-02-08T14:03:33Z

DaveD:

Cleaning Your Convertible Roof and Window

2010-10-28T09:57:51Z

DaveD:

A copy of an article from TBMW. '
[[Media:Roof_cleaning.PDF‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2010-10-28T09:54:31Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same its worth a look before you attempt it

[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

This is for an E30.
[[Image:Convtop-p3.jpg‎]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points on an e30
[[Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2010-10-28T09:53:29Z

DaveD: Undo revision 11224 by 202.108.5.35 (Talk)

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same its worth a look before you attempt it

[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

This is for an E30
[[Image:Convtop-p3.jpg‎]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points on an e30
[[Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

Paint Colour Codes

2010-10-28T09:51:48Z

DaveD:

== E30 Saloon Solid Paint Colour Codes =

{| border="1" cellpadding="20" cellspacing="0"
!Colour
!Code
!Year
|-
|Alpinweiss.
|146
|1982-1985
|-
|Alpinweiss II
|218
|1985-1991
|-
|Atlantisblau
|207
|1987-1991
|-
|Brillantrot
|308
|1988-1991
|-
|Gazellenbeige
|128
|n/a
|-
|Hennarot
|52
|1982-1984
|-
|Karminrot
|172
|n/a
|-
|Karminrot
|172
|n/a
|-
|Lapisblau
|173
|n/a
|-
|Mineralblau
|231
|n/a
|-
|Saturnblau
|176
|1987-1991
|-
|Schwarz
|086
|1984-1988
|-
|Zinoberrot
|138
|1984-1988
|}

== E30 Saloon Metallic Paint Colour Codes ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="20" cellspacing="0"
!Colour
!Code
!Year
|-
|Arktisblau Metallic
|45
|1982-1986
|-
|Bahamabeige Metallic
|170
|1982-1986
|-
|Bronzitbeige Metallic
|139
|1982-1986
|-
|Burgundrot Metallic
|214
|n/a
|-
|Calypsorot Metallic
|252
|1987 - 1991
|-
|Cirrusblau Metallic
|189
|1987 - 1991
|-
|Delphin Metallic
|184
|1985 - 1990
|-
|Diamantschwarz Metallic
|181
|1985-1991
|-
|Gletscherblau Metallic
|280
|1987 - 1991
|-
|Granitsilber Metallic
|272
|n/a
|-
|Lachssilber Metallic
|203
|1986-1989
|-
|Lagunengrün Metallic
|266
|1990-1991
|-
|Lazurblau Metallic
|294
|n/a
|-
|Luxorbeige Metallic
|219
|n/a
|-
|Nerzbraun Metallic
|212
|n/a
|-
|Platanengrün Metallic
|188
|1984-1986
|-
|Polaris Metallic
|60
|1982-1986
|-
|Royalblau Metallic
|198
|1987-1991
|-
|Saphirblau Metallic
|149
|n/a
|-
|Smaragdgrün Metallic
|182
|n/a
|-
|Sterlingsilber Metallic
|244
|1987-1991
|-
|}

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== E30 Convertible Solid Paint Colour Codes ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="20" cellspacing="0"
!Colour
!Code
!Year
|-
|Alpinweiss II
|218
|1985 - 1993
|-
|Atlantisblau
|207
|n/a
|-
|Brillantrot
|308
|1988 - 1993
|-
|Schwarz
|86
|1985 - 1993
|-
|Vulkangrau
|329
|n/a
|}

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Limited Slip Differential

2010-07-13T09:56:41Z

DaveD:

the links are available in earlier editions of this ...

Limited Slip Differential
From E30 Zone Wiki
Revision as of 17:14, 26 July 2009 by 91.149.179.60 (Talk)
(diff) ←Older revision | Current revision (diff) | Newer revision→ (diff)
Jump to: navigation, search

For a general description of Limited Slip Differentials, and how they work please see the External Links below.

Generally Limited Slip Differentials are referred to as a Slipper or as an LSD. This contrasts to the normal differential fitted that is known as an Open Diff.

E30s with LSD as standard

* 325i Sport
* M3

All other E30s has an LSD as an option.

LSD was *not* standard fit on the 318iS

E30 LSDs are clutch plate type and require special oil - see below.

Case sizes

E30s had two differential case sizes, they are interchangeable and the same width but will require adjustment of the prop length. Please see Fitting an E30 Differential.

E30s used either a Small Case or Medium Case differential. Other models used a Large Case which is not directly interchangeable but the internals can be swapped.

E30 LSD Ratios

Below is a list of ratio and cars in which they can be found.

* 3.15 - M3
* 3.64 - prefacelft 325i
* 3.73 - facelift 325i
* 3.91 - facelift 325i touring, cabrio, 325i with getrag 260 sport
* 4.10 - found optionally on UK spec 318i/318iS 2/4dr in Small Case, and on all US M3 models in Medium Case.
* 4.27 -
* 4.44 -

Please update the list of ratios and what cars they are found on and common case sizings.

What these numbers mean

Higher number == shortened gearing (quicker acceleration, more gear changes). Lower number == longer gearing (slower acceleration, longer time spent in each gear)

How to identify and test an LSD

To identify and LSD one can first check for the presence of the tag on the rear casing. The ratio on this will be prefixed with an S for LSDs.

Alternatively one can jack up one rear wheel, ensure the car is out of gear and hand-brake is off then turn the raised wheel. Resistance on that wheel would usually indicate an LSD. An alternative method is to try to leave skid-marks pulling away on good tarmac, two tyre marks for more than a few inches would indicate a properly "locking" LSD. This won't work so well on grass or gravel as on loose surfaces both wheels can slip easier even for non-limited slip differential types.

What oil to use for your LSD

The BMW recommended oil is Castrol SAF-XJ

You can find supplies from <please update>

Durability, Rebuilds and Upgrades

<please update with details of rebuilders in various locations, recommended rebuild intervals etc>

External Links

* Wikipedia's Limited Slip Differential Entry
* How Stuff Works - Differentials
* Video of open and LSD rotation

Limited Slip Differential

2010-07-13T09:54:07Z

DaveD:

Limited Slip Differential
From E30 Zone Wiki
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For a general description of Limited Slip Differentials, and how they work please see the External Links below.

Generally Limited Slip Differentials are referred to as a Slipper or as an LSD. This contrasts to the normal differential fitted that is known as an Open Diff.

E30s with LSD as standard

* 325i Sport
* M3

All other E30s has an LSD as an option.

LSD was *not* standard fit on the 318iS

E30 LSDs are clutch plate type and require special oil - see below.

Case sizes

E30s had two differential case sizes, they are interchangeable and the same width but will require adjustment of the prop length. Please see Fitting an E30 Differential.

E30s used either a Small Case or Medium Case differential. Other models used a Large Case which is not directly interchangeable but the internals can be swapped.

E30 LSD Ratios

Below is a list of ratio and cars in which they can be found.

* 3.15 - M3
* 3.64 - prefacelft 325i
* 3.73 - facelift 325i
* 3.91 - facelift 325i touring, cabrio, 325i with getrag 260 sport
* 4.10 - found optionally on UK spec 318i/318iS 2/4dr in Small Case, and on all US M3 models in Medium Case.
* 4.27 -
* 4.44 -

Please update the list of ratios and what cars they are found on and common case sizings.

What these numbers mean

Higher number == shortened gearing (quicker acceleration, more gear changes). Lower number == longer gearing (slower acceleration, longer time spent in each gear)

How to identify and test an LSD

To identify and LSD one can first check for the presence of the tag on the rear casing. The ratio on this will be prefixed with an S for LSDs.

Alternatively one can jack up one rear wheel, ensure the car is out of gear and hand-brake is off then turn the raised wheel. Resistance on that wheel would usually indicate an LSD. An alternative method is to try to leave skid-marks pulling away on good tarmac, two tyre marks for more than a few inches would indicate a properly "locking" LSD. This won't work so well on grass or gravel as on loose surfaces both wheels can slip easier even for non-limited slip differential types.

What oil to use for your LSD

The BMW recommended oil is Castrol SAF-XJ

You can find supplies from <please update>

Durability, Rebuilds and Upgrades

<please update with details of rebuilders in various locations, recommended rebuild intervals etc>

External Links

* Wikipedia's Limited Slip Differential Entry
* How Stuff Works - Differentials
* Video of open and LSD rotation

File:Water leaks.PDF

2009-09-15T11:53:49Z

DaveD:

File:TechJul01.pdf

2009-09-15T11:38:55Z

DaveD:

Sports Seats

2009-09-05T10:40:21Z

DaveD:

{{stub}}

Sports seats were fitted to various [[Sport models]] of the [[E30]] range.

Please update me with information about Recaro seats, photos etc

this is a link to the best instructions on how to re-build the sports seat

http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318isseat.html

and if it fails >>>>

how to recover the sports seats
1. Slide the seat all the way back and undo the front bolts, then all the way forward and undo the rears.

2. With the seat still in the car tilt it sideways and undo the seat belt mounting, lift the seat out the car.

3. Place the seat on a bench/table at a suitable height as you will be leant over it for some time

4. Tip the seat forward so it is leaning on the top of the back rest (having removed the headrest first) at the hinge point on the bottom of the back rest cover you will see 2 cross head screws, remove them.

5. Put the seat right way up and carefully raise the back rest cover up, there are two hidden clips at the headrest end holding the top.

6. You can now see inside the frame of the back rest, there are two recesses, one either side and close to the bottom, remove the two large cross head screws from within.

7. Undo the plastic hinge point covers and set aside with all the other items removed.

8. Looking into the area where you have removed the back rest cover, carefully prize the wire out from the seat back lever (the one that allows you to let rear passengers in) follow this wire down the inside of the backrest frame and bend out tabs holding it back.

9. Viewing the hinge mechanisms, the same wire (hoop ends) leave these attached to the hinge points and feed the wire out through the gap in the back rest side bolster and finally remove the nylon grommet, you will see that you can now lift the back rest off the base.

All that sounds a lot more difficult than it is, it is just long winded to describe

Please note that if you want to replace the base side bolsters other dismantling will be required.

10. Remove the seat belt receiver (bolts into either end of a bar that holds the back of the seat base fabric) and turn the seat base upside down, carefully prize the bar out of the hinge point either side, this will release the back of the runners and slide the bar out through the fabric loop.

11. At the front of the seat base, remove the clip and pin that secures the arm for the adjustable bolster and then carefully with a flat screwdriver lift the metal securing tabs/spikes from around the underside of it as well as the plastic strip that will now pull off from the long edge.

12. With the seat base still upside down, you will see that the foam in the base is clipped with "Hog Rings" through the seat springs and in some places to the edge of the side bolsters, you will need to tug and twist these out with snipe nosed pliers (keep them and using the snipe nose pliers you will need to bend these back into a u shape to reclip the new base).

13. Finally look for the other metal tabs/spikes across the back edge of the seat frame and pull the material, bend up the tabs and lift the material off them, the seat base will now be released.

NOTE PUTTING THE HOG RINGS BACK IN THROUGH THE FOAM IS A BA**ARD, you will need to put a cushion between your bench and the finished side of your base (with the seat upside down between the bolsters) and push the U shaped rings (that you re-bent earlier) down into the foam with you snipe nosed pliers and then at the same time turn them so you have the points facing you and then squeeze them closed around a seat spring. No problem, just about covers most of it except to add that to change the side bolsters on the back rest, you really need to remove the centres first, same with the base, the side bolsters are again hog ringed through a wire running along the length of the bolster and fixed to the edges of the springs, and then on the other edge of the bolster they are hooked onto the tabs/spikes YOU MUST FIX THE RING THROUGH THE WIRE SIDE BEFORE HOOKING ONTO THE TABS.

The only parts i haven't mentioned, so i might as well now, is to remove the base side bolsters, you need to release the hinge mechanisms as follows:

1. Remove the front adjustable bolster knob (can be quite tight),to remove the plastic side cover is one plastic spike, lever under the cover not the spike or you will break it, and slide forwards then remove the lever under the cover (star drive screw) if you are swapping a bolster from the handbrake side to the outside, just make a new hole for this lever spindle, no big deal.

2. In the centre of the hinge mechanism there is a little short lever, over a circlip, gently lever this out and remove the circlip (both sides)

3.Wedge a screw driver against the bar in the curved slot and rotate the hinge mechanism, it will then twist off out the way, allowing you to peel
the material off, once you have unhooked and removed rings as before.

If you are working on seats for a 4 door/touring, the backrest will lift straight off with no wires to worry about. Don't expect to get it all done in a hurry, it takes time and makes your fingers bloody sore.

Cleaning Your Convertible Roof and Window

2009-09-03T09:57:48Z

DaveD:

A copy of an article from TBMW
[[Media:Roof_cleaning.PDF‎ ]]

Cleaning Your Convertible Roof and Window

2009-09-03T09:54:31Z

DaveD:

A copy of an article from TBMW

[[Image:[[Roof_cleaning.PDF‎ ]]]]

Cleaning Your Convertible Roof and Window

2009-09-03T09:53:46Z

DaveD: New page: A copy of an article from TBMW Roof_cleaning.PDF‎

A copy of an article from TBMW

[[Roof_cleaning.PDF‎ ]]

File:Roof cleaning.PDF

2009-09-03T09:48:43Z

DaveD:

Convertible top adjustment

2009-09-01T16:11:53Z

DaveD:

This article is to help fit a new top to your E30 convertible, or get you existing one to close/seal better. You will need to adjust the three mounting points on each side of the frame so that it closes properly against the windscreen frame and seals across the rear of the lid.

Firstly you need to loosten off all the securing nuts/bolts, then adjust the height using the pic below.. you will need to place a straightedge across the body frame and measure down from the underside of the straightedge. Once done leave the bottom 4 nuts loose so the roof can still move foward/back.

[[Image:top_adjust.jpg]]

then close the top onto the windscreen (leave the lid open) and latch it with both latches. Now you can shim the top mounting into the correct place. Once you have done this, you can then secure all the nuts/bolts.

I will add some more actual car pics later to help explain the whole procedure.

[[Image:Convtop-p1.jpg‎ ]]
[[Image:Convtop window.jpg‎]]

File:Convtop window.jpg

2009-09-01T16:10:04Z

DaveD: uploaded a new version of "Image:Convtop window.jpg"

Convertible top adjustment

2009-09-01T16:05:30Z

DaveD:

File:Convtop-p1.jpg

2009-09-01T16:03:39Z

DaveD:

File:Convtop-p3.jpg

2009-09-01T16:02:43Z

DaveD: uploaded a new version of "Image:Convtop-p3.jpg"

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:56:01Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same its worth a look before you attempt it
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

This is for an E30
[[Image:Convtop-p3.jpg‎]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points on an e30
[[Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:54:55Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

[[Image:Convtop-p3.jpg‎]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points on an e30
[[Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

File:Convtop-p3.jpg

2009-09-01T15:51:33Z

DaveD:

Headlamp washers

2009-09-01T15:37:47Z

DaveD:

[[Media:Headlamp_washers.PDF‎ ]]

Headlamp washers

2009-09-01T15:37:26Z

DaveD: New page: Image:Headlamp_washers.PDF‎

[[Image:Headlamp_washers.PDF‎ ]]

File:Headlamp washers.PDF

2009-09-01T15:37:05Z

DaveD:

Heating system troubleshoot

2009-09-01T15:34:09Z

DaveD: New page: Media:E30_heating.PDF‎

[[Media:E30_heating.PDF‎]]

File:E30 heating.PDF

2009-09-01T15:33:49Z

DaveD:

Heated washer jets install

2009-09-01T15:31:11Z

DaveD: New page: Media:Heated_washer_jets.PDF‎

[[Media:Heated_washer_jets.PDF‎ ]]

File:Heated washer jets.PDF

2009-09-01T15:30:48Z

DaveD:

Tyre size calculator

2009-09-01T15:27:57Z

DaveD:

an excel file with an excellent calculator that compares new size to existing

[[Media:F_tire_section_calculator_v97_12.xls‎ ]]

Tyre size calculator

2009-09-01T15:26:41Z

DaveD: New page: Media:F_tire_section_calculator_v97_12.xls‎

[[Media:F_tire_section_calculator_v97_12.xls‎ ]]

File:F tire section calculator v97 12.xls

2009-09-01T15:26:12Z

DaveD:

File:Dash battery.PDF

2009-09-01T15:18:16Z

DaveD:

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:14:12Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points on an e30
[[Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:12:16Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points
[[Media:Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:11:58Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points
[[Image:Image:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:10:41Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points
[[Media:Image:Convtop window.jpg‎ (]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:10:12Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points
[[Media:[[Image:Convtop window.jpg‎ (]]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:09:02Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

here is a pic of the adjustment points
Image:Convtop window.jpg‎

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T15:07:12Z

DaveD:

this is for an e36 but the principal is the same
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

File:Convtop window.jpg

2009-09-01T15:04:59Z

DaveD:

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T14:57:45Z

DaveD:

[[Image:http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/5/58/Adjusting_side_widow.pdf]]
[[Adjusting_side_widow.pdf‎ ]]

Adjusting the Front window

2009-09-01T14:56:14Z

DaveD: New page: Image:http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/5/58/Adjusting_side_widow.pdf

[[Image:http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/images/5/58/Adjusting_side_widow.pdf]]

File:Widowadjustmentol5.jpg

2009-09-01T14:52:24Z

DaveD: